[lshadoff]

What do you mean by "fully rebuilt"? To factory original specifications? With aftermarket parts (Carillo rods, forged pistons, extrude honed head, cams, header, big exhaust...)?

The same nozzle size can produce different levels of power depending on how your engine is built. Are you planning on a dry kit, so you only need a nitrous nozzle size? Or are you planning a wet kit, in which case you need to specify a nitrous and a fuel nozzle size.

Lew

 

[lshadoff]

The stock bottom end of the SR20 is reliably good to 350WHP. As long as your nitrous setup doesn't go lean, or the spark advance too much, it should be OK.

If I were you, I would tune on a dyno with a wideband oxygen sensor and exhaust gas temperature sensor. Then you can start increasing jet sizes until you reach your horsepower goal or the sensors indicate that you reached the limit.

Lew

 

[lshadoff]

What kind of nitrous is it that is continually fed? Like whenever you rev the engine it uses nitrous. I think ZEX makes it..

Most nitrous systems detect wide open throttle and start spraying. They stop spraying when the throttle comes off wide open.

Some arm the system when the throttle is wide open, and there is a button to press to spray.

Some use the factory throttle position sensor, and some come with a switch which must be installed.

The JWT system I have is used for drag racing, and is controlled by the car's computer. It sprays off the line when the throttle is wide open. This spools up the turbo very fast. When the ECU detects that the MAF is maxing out due to the combination of nitrous and boost, it automatically stops spraying. So, you just arm it, step on the gas, and go. You can see my installation here.

Lew