[kiwin12]

hi

i am looking to rebuild a e series engine , just some thing for me and my kids to do to increase our range on car knowlage , parts and spares are not much of a worry as i work in the industry ,

i have a basic 1300 block and head , to which i will fit a weber carb and regrind camshaft and some headers

not looking to turbo for as i hope my son will learn to drive the car when old enough

from my reading of the fourms , i understand the block , cranshaft and heads are much the same

if i find and fit e15 rods to what i have now i should have 1500cc ?

do i need e15 pistons or can i still use the e13 ones

will i need to check valve clearance etc

any help would be much appreciated

 

[PulseMan]

I do not have my Haynes manual on me, but you are better off just taking that 1300 and stroking it to the 1600cc.

if i find and fit e15 rods to what i have now i should have 1500cc ?

Yes, you should. However, I do think the cranks are different.

do i need e15 pistons or can i still use the e13 ones

No need for them. If you can, go for forged e13 ones.

will i need to check valve clearance etc

Whatever you stroke it to (1400cc-1600cc) use the same series manufactures valve lash adjustment.

 

[kiwin12]

cheers for your answers pulseman

what is involved in stroking it to 1600

thinking about it i think i would need the e15 crank as if i use the e13 with e15 rods the the throw would be the same just lower down the bore

am i right in thinking the valve lash adj is what we call valve clearance you set when you adj the tappets

i was more worried about piston to valve clearance when changing the crank , rods , pistons etc

once again thanks for your time

 

[Shane Ruthnum]

Hi!
Im busy modding my E13s at the moment!

You are correct in saying that the blocks are the same, except that FI blocks dont have a fuel pump facility as my carbed block has.

The cranks vary in turning radii, and the connecting rods get shorter the longer the stroke gets.

Heres a list that will help...


E13: 1270cc
Bore x Stroke: 76x70
Connecting rod: 146.5?

E15: 1488
Bore x Stroke: 76x82
Connecting rod: 140.5

E15ET: 1488
Bore x Stroke: 76x82
Connecting rod: 137.5

E16: 1597
Bore x Stroke: 76x88
Connecting rod: 137.5

As you can see, bores are all same so pistons can be swapped.
But just check on compression ratios because the pistons and combustion chambers in the heads vary.

Im fitting a E15 crank with E13 rods and pistons to my E13 block with increased deck height.

Valve clearance all fall in place, thanks to the ppl at Nissan!

Hope this helps!

 

[PulseMan]

cheers for your answers pulseman

what is involved in stroking it to 1600

thinking about it i think i would need the e15 crank as if i use the e13 with e15 rods the the throw would be the same just lower down the bore

am i right in thinking the valve lash adj is what we call valve clearance you set when you adj the tappets

i was more worried about piston to valve clearance when changing the crank , rods , pistons etc

once again thanks for your time

Using the E16 crank and rods will make it the E16.

Tappets, lash, valve clearance are one in the same. Just many names.

Like stated before a increased deck height is needed, but a thicker headgasket would fix that. Then just set to E15 specs.

You are correct in saying that the blocks are the same, except that FI blocks dont have a fuel pump facility as my carbed block has.

True, the E13 and E16 blocks have the jack shaft insert in their blocks. However, since he is going Weber, the mech.pump doesnt cut it for flow.
I already installed a Carter 4070 electric pump to solve that problem.

Now, why are you using the E15 bits when they are more commonly the turbo variant? I love the sound of carbs, but FI Turbos are much more fun.

 

[kiwin12]

Now, why are you using the E15 bits when they are more commonly the turbo variant? I love the sound of carbs, but FI Turbos are much more fun.[/QUOTE]


not sure if this question was for myself or not , but my reasons as follow
in nz we have laws re repowering cars , going fron n/a to carb need to certified which for a car that is just a run around car and more than likely will be passed on to my teenage son as his first car , the cost of cert is just a extra cost that we dont need , as the blocks are the same it would be hard for the warrent of fitness people to know of the swap even better if i use the oringal e13 block factory numbers and all that , with the repower cert you can increase by 20% over factory before it aplys , hence i am looking at changing to 1500 cc ( not one needs to know ) and fitting reground cam and some header along with a special weber carb set up


how what sort of increase in head gasket thickness over std should i be looking at ?


cheers once again

 

[Shane Ruthnum]

According to my calculation, using the standard 1mm gasket, changing from 1300 to 1500 ups my c.r.from 9,5 to 11,5.

Im also cutting the cam... to a 276, and the 11,5 c.r. is ideal to run this cam.

So before you decide to drop c.r., Id say decide what cam you want and set your c.r.according to the cam.

My static ratio of 11,5 is going to drop to about 9.5 or 10 dynamic.

Remeber, when you cut the cam, you increase overlap, the amount of overlap depends on what you choose.
This overlap is going to cause some compression to leak, so effective compression drops.