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Discussion Starter #21
Well if you are looking to replace the wire harness and can wait a bit for delivery, I saw this which is the right part for the backdoor wire harness.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/240518h300.

Mine too has stopped in weird positions at times, but just turning off the rear wiper switch and turning it on again has always reset it. That is other than when it was all seized up the way Chadn just described. But prior to that the wiper slowed noticeably.
Good luck with it.
 

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Re: Rear wiper stops in odd position

There could be two possible causes: (1) broken or almost broken wires in the driver side wire harness or (2) seized up rear wiper motor. Both are pretty easy fixes.

For the wire harness, you can either buy a new harness from Nissan or try and repair the old one. I would just replace it with a new harness. I think I paid about $130 for the new harness and it took me about half an hour to install. To install it, you need to remove the cover from the rear door and the upper trim panel in the back storage area of the x-trail. There is one connector in the rear storage area and then 3 or 4 connectors in the rear door. The only hard one is the connector for the rear brake light. That one was a pain.

For the rear motor, water slowly makes it way into the bushing that the arm pivots on. As it corrodes, it slowly starts seizing. It's pretty easy to open up the rear motor, clean up the bushing surfaces and put fresh grease there. Saves having to buy a $400 wiper motor. You need to remove the wiper are first, then you can remove the motor from the rear door, then there is a little circlip you need to remove (be careful not to break or bend it too bad), then the motor arm should come right out.

@chadn and @quadraria10 - you are both awesomely supportive! Thank you for sharing your experiences! I will dive into this and get 'er fixed based on your great feedback and suggestions.
 

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Re: Rear wiper stops in odd position

I would just like to note that the solutions for lubricating the pivot shaft mechanism that both @quadraria10 and @chadn suggest and detail earlier worked for my X-Trail. I live on the "wet coast" and though I had no rust as we don't have winter as the rest of Canada has, the shaft and arm had dried out - the surfaces were binding up as there was not enough lubricant between them. So mine locked up intermittently.

If you are newer at digging into repairs such as this, the job may seem daunting, but it is really a 1 hour job and with care, you can do it yourself. I will add a few smaller suggestions to the great instructions detailed earlier that may help folks newer to repairs:

1. Remove the back hatch plastic panel on the inside of the rear hatch door. There is a 2" round plastic hole cover and a smaller plastic cover with a loop to be removed first. Pry them off gently with a small screwdriver. Then gently slide a flat screwdriver or other thin metal object between the panel and metal part of the door at one spot. Don't be afraid of breaking anything, but still, be gentle but firm until you get one of the plastic connectors to pop out. Work your way around the panel until you have popped them all out. There are two more in the middle as well. Reach in a carefully to each and push the panel out at those points to pop the centre plastic connectors off. You should now have the panel off.

2. Outside: Make sure the wiper is in the horizontal, "off" position. On the rear washer arm on the outside, pop the small round plastic cover off the arm at the base of the arm with a flat screwdriver. You will see a bolt there. Use a ratchet or adjustable wrench to get it off. If rusted, corroded, or dirty, be careful as you don't want to damage the bolt, arm or mechanism with too much force. But it must come off. Once the bolt is off, gently but firmly wiggle and pull the wiper arm straight off the spindle the bolt was connected to. You might need to carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or other lever put against the door itself if it doesn't come straight off with some wiggling and pulling. Do so carefully and as near the base of the arm as possible so that the force is pushing as straight out as possible. Be ready for it to come off suddenly.

3. Follow the great instructions noted earlier.

A couple of add-on comments to those instructions:

I. The tiny little circlip (snap ring) at the base of the outside part of the arm, before it enters the larger mechanism, is a pain to get off. I used a few tiny and small screwdrivers to get it off without bending it or breaking it. This was by far the most challenging part of this job! In the end, it was a bit warped and not as tight as when I pulled it off, but it still worked. There are circlip tools, but they work with circlips that have tiny pry holes to connect to. The ones on the Nissan X-Trail do not have tiny holes, so don't buy a special tool. (Any suggestions from others on how to remove the circlip easily?)

II. When reassembling the motor and gear assembly, be sure to return the gear and pivot mechanism to the same position inside as when you opened it up. Also, re-assemble the outside arm mechanism in the same angle as you started. This will ensure that the wiper arm actually wipes in the same arc as it is intended to when you are finished putting it all back together! @Quadraria notes this in his instructions, but I wanted to make it a bit more explicit.

That's it. Good luck!
 

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I performed this repair on my 05 to pass safety. Its an easy fix. Virtually identical to the murano as mentioned earlier. Dont let thus easy hob intimidate you, dig in and follow directions.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Glad to hear both you guys did the repair. Good stuff. Just a word to the wise I had to redo mine two years later, and it did the trick again. Second time I spent a bit more time with the metal polish and used bearing grease instead of lithium grease to lubricate the shaft.
When taking off that little c clip, its best to do it on a towel or something soft that can catch the spring if it flies off. I just used two little metal picks I have to pry it up a bit and work it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Good stuff. I was too cheap to go out and buy some. Just used what I had on hand. Previous time I did it over 2-3 years ago, I used lithium grease. This time I had good synthetic ball joint grease that I thought I would give a try, as the lithium grease appeared to have dried out. Been working fine for the past 10 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Wow Food quality grease. Looks like good stuff, even impervious to salt water. I used this stuff
MotoMaster Wheel Bearing and Chassis Grease | Canadian Tire

Probably not as good as what you bought, but I think better than what I used before. Also works on my ball joints and tie rods that have lube fittings.
Actually I have a spare rear wiper motor that I picked up at Kenny U Pull last I was there, and took it apart and relubed it as well. So if and when my rear wiper fails again I will just swap it out. Mind you Nissan charges such a pretty penny for the motor that I should sell the spare I got. I have seen a number of X trails with the tell tale rear wiper stuck in the upright position
 

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Discussion Starter #31
You obviously know a lot more about grease than me. I am curious if you think dialectic grease would also be good to use or might it dry up as well over time?
 

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Depends on the grease. The goal of dielectric grease is to protect an electrical connection not prevent wear on moving parts. I wouldn't use a dielectric grease on something like the washer arm pivot.

Even though it's expensive, the SuperLube grease you can get at HomeDepot is also rated as a dielectric grease. It's as close as I have found to a universal product. I used to have multiple types of grease (wheel bearing, dielectric, white, silicon, marine, etc...). Now I only have the Viper Clear Grease and a special low viscosity grease for mountain bikes.
 

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So...We were told the rear wiper had issues. Not only is the fluid nozzle missing, but the wiper arm will not bend at the hinge so as to easily change the wiper blade. The wiper works, but the one on there no longer does a good job of clearing the glass. We can live with no fluid for awhile until we get parts, and hopefully it won't be too hard to fix. In the meantime, I sprayed WD40 on it, but no luck yet. Anyone else have this happen?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hi Molly
You probably will need to replace the arm. I forget how much they cost at the dealer but I think its something like $60 for the part. The rear spray nozzle was $22 or so. A U pull yard would be the cheapest route. For the rear arm you may find a cheaper new alternative on Aliexpress or Ebay.
I had replaced mine a few years ago because rust on the hinge and spring got to the point that it would not hold pressure well against the rear hatch glass. I did the nozzle as well after my wife got a little too enthusiastic with the ice scrapper one freezing morning. Good luck with it.
 

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I got a new arm for our other one, from a used Nissan parts place in Lethbridge. They have them now; I looked in their inventory. Just odd that it froze at the hinge. Guess I'll add that to my shopping list!
 

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sometimes you can get lucky and go get a used rear wiper arm off another used japanese vehicle at the auto wrecker. As long as the base of the wiper arm fits the pivoting rotating motor shaft on your xtrail. For example, you may find that a 2008-12 toyota rav 4, or a used mitsubishi outlander , toyota yaris, etc....not saying i know for a fact these will fit, but if you ask the autowrecker dude or take off your xtrail wiper and swap onto a japanese vehicle with a rear wiper on the back, it may fit and may be very cheap compared to the sometimes hard to find xtrails. Toyota matrix, honda Fit , nissan versa are more examples of cheaper economy hatchbacks with simple rear wiper designs that may be a universal fit.
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Update: When I dropped off our new Exxie the other day, the mechanic saw us fiddling with the rear wiper while we were waiting, and in about five seconds, he had it unstuck, haha! Maybe that WD-40 helped a bit after all, but I guess he was able to apply enough force. So, now we have to find a rear washer fluid nozzle somewhere.... I have checked a lot of places online, and the shop owner also tried to find one, but no luck yet. I'll try the Nissan stealer in Lethbridge on Monday.
 

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in all my years as a Auto Glass technician, i've had some extremely stubborn front and rear vehicle wipers to remove. Sometimes no amount of spray lube or Auto glass tricks of the trade will remove a stubborn , seized wiper arm from its pivoting shaft. A few times things got destroyed in the process and replacement parts or some type of patch up job was required. I found that sometimes i got lucky by saturating the round turning pivot base with wd40/liquid wrench and letting it sit for 15 minutes to hours And the use of a good wiper arm removal tool was the only way. Last shop i worked at, i convinced the shop owner to get us a very good quality wiper removal tool that cost him about $125. There are cheaper ones at cnd tire, Lordco and sometimes Liquidation stores that have an automotive section. But the good ones costs more because they are made of high quality, work as intended and 99% of the time do the trick.
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Sometimes that splined shaft is too badly worn out and will not get enough grip to turn the wiper(s) . A smart technician will inspect that splined shaft and if it is determined to be in good condition, add the correct long lasting lube to it before reinstalling the wiper arm. Good idea to take a wire brush or rotary drill brush and remove as much surface rust before applying the lube!
 

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The wiper arm is working, and we replaced the old wiper blade but it still does not seem to make good contact with the glass so we are going to fiddle with that a bit. The main issue now is finding the squirty fluid nozzle thing so it can actually wash the window. :giggle:
Update: The Nissan dealer in Lethbridge will order one in for me. About $25.00 plus tax, so not super bad. Also, he said the rear should have a certain type of wiper on it and that may be the issue as far as poor glass contact.
 
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