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Discussion Starter #1
hi all
i see a trikle of coolant on the radiator top and the leak isnt very bad as i add some coolant only every other week. well, is it gonna be bad in the long run? i travel distances of 200 miles in a day sometimes and i really dont want to see the engine temperature shoot over the limits. can i use a radiator leak stopping liquid by prestone, i heard prestone makes good stuff. so i was wondering if i could use it,
thanks in advance
mk
 

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bitter old man
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DO NOT USE STOP LEAK unless you ABSOLUTELY do not care about your car. By your incomplete description, it appears your radiator cap gasket is bad.

Try a new radiator cap before looking for more dire problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
will it be a problem in long run

hi
is it necessary to replace the radiator cap gasket soon or can i pull a few more months this way? also i see the leak only on the radiator head sometimes only. ie. only if the radiator is completely full. then some coolant leaks and the rest of it doesnt leak, can say that 70% coolant always stays in the radiator even after a month.
thanks
mk
 

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bitter old man
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Proper cooling requires pressure on the system. If yours is leaking, it's either because the cap is bad or you have some other (even worse) problem.

Penny wise is pound foolish. Or, pay me now or pay me later.

P.S. Does your coolant overflow bottle have liquid in it?
 

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mk_sentra said:
hi all
i see a trikle of coolant on the radiator top and the leak isnt very bad as i add some coolant only every other week. well, is it gonna be bad in the long run? i travel distances of 200 miles in a day sometimes and i really dont want to see the engine temperature shoot over the limits. can i use a radiator leak stopping liquid by prestone, i heard prestone makes good stuff. so i was wondering if i could use it,
thanks in advance
mk
since i cant see it in front of me, it could be a bad radiator cap or a bad radiator where the top plastic tank meets the core and they are pinched together and they always leak there. try a new cap and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hi
i think it isnt the radiator cap, but "a bad radiator where the top plastic tank meets the core and they are pinched together and they always leak there" . i didnt understand what this meant, but is there a radiator cap(plastic part) or something after removing the top mounting screws
thanks


your reply

since i cant see it in front of me, it could be a bad radiator cap or a bad radiator where the top plastic tank meets the core and they are pinched together and they always leak there. try a new cap and go from there.
 

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quick 'fixes' never are

buckle down and buy a new radatior if you plan on keeping your ride. :)
 

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mk_sentra said:
hi
i think it isnt the radiator cap, but "a bad radiator where the top plastic tank meets the core and they are pinched together and they always leak there" . i didnt understand what this meant, but is there a radiator cap(plastic part) or something after removing the top mounting screws
thanks


your reply

since i cant see it in front of me, it could be a bad radiator cap or a bad radiator where the top plastic tank meets the core and they are pinched together and they always leak there. try a new cap and go from there.
basically where the plastic part of the radiator is attached to the aluminum part.
 

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Cone Dodger
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to diagnose would be to pressurize the cooling system and check for leaks from other places, even the radiator itself, and if pressure holds and no fountains of streaming coolant emerge, it's the cap and seal......
 

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Hi... just a suggestion, don't use the miracle "Radiator Stop Leak" on it... a friend of mine just add it to his Toyota Tercel since the top plastic cover was cracked and now the car runs with higher temp... practically no leaks but a big mess of stop leak around the crack and temp a little above normal... seems that this thing seals and also prevents water from cooling...
 

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Cone Dodger
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the stop leak basically crams itself to every nook and cranny in the coolant's path, that's why it dissolves when it get's hot, like someone here before said, "do not use stop leak unless you absolutely do not care for your car"......
 

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Discussion Starter #12
not radiator cap

hi
it certainly isnt the radiator cap as i dont see any coolant around it. it is all on the radiator head but not near the cap.
 

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azkicker0027 said:
so i guess a new radiator is in order........
Ok, what do you guys think it's better:

a. New Original Radiator for about $250
b. New hand made / Custom Built (Bronze/Cooper) for about $100
c. Used Original Radiator from yard for about $100
 

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SergioCR said:
Ok, what do you guys think it's better:

a. New Original Radiator for about $250
b. New hand made / Custom Built (Bronze/Cooper) for about $100
c. Used Original Radiator from yard for about $100
A or B if custom built is made very well and have more fins.
 

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Ok, so it's better to get a new one or custom made... what about water pressure? if for some reason the new custom radiator has more pressure than normal could be any problems with engine seals or gaskets due to more pressure running in?
 

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Cone Dodger
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imo, a custom hand-made would be a bit risky, like someone said, who knows what is the pressure limit on that thing, i'd rather have the oem part anyday of the week, eventhough it's a little bit much, i am rest assured of the quality, and warranty, or opt for the koyo one in project 1.6 in performance mag, it sounds better, and could possibly take on anything you throw at it.....well, pressure-wise of course.........
 

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azkicker0027 said:
imo, a custom hand-made would be a bit risky, like someone said, who knows what is the pressure limit on that thing, i'd rather have the oem part anyday of the week, eventhough it's a little bit much, i am rest assured of the quality, and warranty, or opt for the koyo one in project 1.6 in performance mag, it sounds better, and could possibly take on anything you throw at it.....well, pressure-wise of course.........
Ok, my friend it's getting the hand-made one for about $110 which seems to be thicker than the stock one, brass made i guess and the guys who made it claims a 1.5 year warranty no matter if even you make a hole with a drill on it, they'll fix it for free. His car is a Toyota Tercel '91 with a 3E Engine.

Also, same guys told him to remove the water thermostat (the one that opens when water is hot) is that a good idea or just some way to keep pressure low ?
 

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Cone Dodger
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the thermostat is there to restrict coolant flow and creat faster warm-ups, but if freezing is not an issue, well, it might be a good idea, keeping the engine running at cooler temperatures..........
 

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azkicker0027 said:
the thermostat is there to restrict coolant flow and creat faster warm-ups, but if freezing is not an issue, well, it might be a good idea, keeping the engine running at cooler temperatures..........
Well, freezing is not a problem here but we found a problem when removing thermostat, when going at highway speed the air cools down the car to the COLD zone and then the Fast Idle starts to work to rise the engine temp again like in the morning.... so.... i guess we'll re-install a new thermostat, the last one was sticking.
 
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