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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a few ? about AD stuff for B14's

1. Are they shortened, how much?

2. Are the cases bigger,how much?

3. If I get GC/AGX set-up now would I be able to switch out the AGXs for AD stuff?

4. What material are the cases made out of?

I think thats all for now, thx in advance(no pun intended)
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
they are shortened 2"

The housings are made of chrome molly, the shock bodies are alloy.

I am not sure of the exact diameter.

They kick ass!
 

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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike,
You see I am sick and tired of not doing things right the first time with my car, so this time around I want to do it right. This means that I may just save up the big $$$ and go with the same setup you have on your 99 SE-L, but with different spring rates of course(not that I know what yours are, but I am sure I would be going softer).. Any way I thought of some more questions...

How much can u adjust the them with respect to the valving,would they be able to handle a 150lbs spring rate change just through adjustment? Or would you lose alot of adj and therefore be better of revalving them?

What is the deal with the "Offset Strut Housing"? I imagine it is for tire cleareance.

Does anyone have pictures of the AD struts and shocks for a B14? I would really like to see them.

This is what I am thinking of doing for the suspension on my car.
GC coilovers
AD dampers
GC C/C plate
GC sways or Stillen rear and either stock front or ST front
I already have front and rear STBs that will work witht the C/C plates
Lower control arm brace
poly bushings

So Im probly looking at $3500 worth of stuff here, but at least my suspension wont suck :D
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
PatScottAKA99XE said:
Thanks Mike,
You see I am sick and tired of not doing things right the first time with my car, so this time around I want to do it right. This means that I may just save up the big $$$ and go with the same setup you have on your 99 SE-L, but with different spring rates of course(not that I know what yours are, but I am sure I would be going softer).. Any way I thought of some more questions...

How much can u adjust the them with respect to the valving,would they be able to handle a 150lbs spring rate change just through adjustment? Or would you lose alot of adj and therefore be better of revalving them?

What is the deal with the "Offset Strut Housing"? I imagine it is for tire cleareance.


Its for more tire clearance to the inside.


This is what I am thinking of doing for the suspension on my car.
GC coilovers
AD dampers
GC C/C plate
GC sways or Stillen rear and either stock front or ST front
I already have front and rear STBs that will work witht the C/C plates
Lower control arm brace
poly bushings


This will be pretty killer. I can sugest that you get the new Progress Adjustable front sway bar. it has no bind like the ST bars have and it is 3-way adjustable with heim joints.

On a B14 you proably want to bend the rear axle to get rid of the 1/4" of toe in that they have and to run spring rates identical or nearly identical to the front spring rate to get rid of the understeer.

Aslo get the lower control arm brace that Scott Higashi makes. It connects to the crossmember and is low profile

Mike

Mike
 

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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #5
Thx again,
I didnt even know about the Progress bar. Thanks for letting me know.

About the rear axle. I am kinda confused about this line:

"On a B14 you proably want to bend the rear axle to get rid of the 1/4" of toe in that they have and to run spring rates identical or nearly identical to the front spring rate to get rid of the understeer."

Do you mean to say: Without bending the axle I would need to run nearly identical rates. Or: After bending the rear axle, If I want to get rid of the understeer I will need to run nearly identical rates.
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
PatScottAKA99XE said:
Thx again,
I didnt even know about the Progress bar. Thanks for letting me know.

About the rear axle. I am kinda confused about this line:

"On a B14 you proably want to bend the rear axle to get rid of the 1/4" of toe in that they have and to run spring rates identical or nearly identical to the front spring rate to get rid of the understeer."

Do you mean to say: Without bending the axle I would need to run nearly identical rates. Or: After bending the rear axle, If I want to get rid of the understeer I will need to run nearly identical rates.
Like on your car I would bend the axle and run 350 in/lbs front and 325-350 rear. I would bend the axle to have zero rear toe.

Mike
 

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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Gotcha!

Since Eibach springs are availible in 25lbs increments(right?) That means I could play around with many different rates. Like try 325 rear then 350 rear and see which I like better. This gets back to one of my other questions about the dampers.. Could I just adjust them(I know this would be a small rate change) or would I be better off revalving for the new rate? How big of a rate change can the dampers take before one should think about revalving? Cuz maybe I would have a set of racing springs and a set of street springs.
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
Joined
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2,366 Posts
PatScottAKA99XE said:
Gotcha!

Since Eibach springs are availible in 25lbs increments(right?) That means I could play around with many different rates. Like try 325 rear then 350 rear and see which I like better. This gets back to one of my other questions about the dampers.. Could I just adjust them(I know this would be a small rate change) or would I be better off revalving for the new rate? How big of a rate change can the dampers take before one should think about revalving? Cuz maybe I would have a set of racing springs and a set of street springs.
You can probably go withing a rage of 100 lb before youneed to revalve.

You probably don't want to keep on taking your suspension apart and realigning the car all the time.

My turbo classic street car has 500 in/lbs front 400 rear with AD's, the same rate as our NASA SR racer. It is sort of brutal but fun. Funny thing is I have been in slammed street cars that ride much worse!

Mike
 

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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #9
Taking it all apart and realigning the car isnt a problem. I can just bring it into the shop(where I work) after work and do it whenever I fell like it. Thanks for all of the answers. :D
 

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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
BTW,
Why cant I find any info on that progress sway bar, the only one I can find is for B13's Anyone???

The B13 will fit on the B14

Mike

Editing my post, why you.....LOL :D Thanks for the info.
 
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