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pulled codes and.......

3K views 38 replies 5 participants last post by  Pynikal 
#1 ·
well some of you might be aware of the issues that i have been haveing with my $250 project truck, but incase you dont heres a thread to catch up with things.

http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/149640-d21-crank-no-start-coils.html

well i got a dizzy from zanegrey, great helpful guy btw, off here and the truck will still not start so i guess its not a dizzy problem so he suggested that i pull the codes from the truck and this is what i got:

21-ign sig
23-idle switch
24-throttle valve switch

21 is kind of a no brainer cuz the thing just cranks, but are the other two only in there because the truck is just cranking and not running or am i way off base here in thinking this. thanks for any input that anyone has on this.
 
#3 ·
i did the green light red light thing to pull the codes and this is what i got. no PO or P codes.
 
#6 ·
that is what i thought on 23, 24, and the main relay is passenger side fender right?

and when i am checking power at the coils do i check it in, back probing the connector or out at the coil wire to the dizzy? they both have power while not cranking.
 
#7 ·
tested voltage at the main relay and had 10.5v while cranking. that is a 2v drop to the main relay but it was during cranking so....

and i had 9.5v out of both coils while cranking. this got me thinking about the condition of the wires. prevoius owner said that he did the wires about 7 months before the truck quit running, but i test the resistance of the wires from the coils to the dizzy and one was 2.25kohms and the other was 5.25kohms. is this enuf of a difference to cause this thing not to run??


i also noticed that there is some adjustment when putting in the dizzzy and was wondering if that has to be all the way to one side or the other.
 
#9 ·
middle for the dizzy...<<what does this mean?

how do the wires look ?>>>wires look good. there not cracked or anything
and the should have an almost identical ohms test..<<possibly an internal wire failure?

check the lead coming into the dizzy ..>>>check for power?? cranking or not? that is the 4 pin connector right?

also looked at the fuseble links and they were all good.

i took up the vinyl floor covering and it was wet were the main wire harness runs from the ecu into the engine bay, water did not get to the ecu. thinking maybe a corrosion issue here?
 
#11 ·
ahhh i see. that is were i put it, i figured that was the best bet.
 
#12 ·
checked power into the dizzy from the 4-pin connector and there was power there. than took the cap off and tested for power there and i had power there. also tested the resistance between the wires to the coils thru the cap and go the same result with different resistance values. i think im going to do cap, rotor,plugs and wires as a next step. this seems like the only logical step.......i think.


im getting kind of frustrated with it:confused: but i guess ill keep pressing on with it. might just break down and swap in the 350. lol :woowoo:
 
#14 ·
i have thought about this as well. i was talking to the guys at work and a couple of them suggested that as well so i think that i will try it at least. $12 for a new rotor, worth a try.
 
#17 ·
got the cap and rotor........nothin:lame:

im really having a hard time with this, not sure were to go next with this:confused::confused:
 
#19 ·
that is all it is.

2 red
1 green

that is how i pulled out of the computer.
 
#22 ·
yeah its turning when it is cranking.
 
#23 ·
it is the z24i 4 cyl. dizzy is new/used with no oil in it. as far as the ign switch were is it located and how do i test it??
 
#24 ·
ok never mind the last thing that i said. it cranks so how would the ign switch be bad.
 
#26 ·
and how would i go about doing that??
 
#28 · (Edited)
this is what i got with switched power on and the dizzy connector.


upper left battery voltage
upper right 4.88v
lower left 4.91v
lower right .011v i assume that this is a ground.

here is a pic of the connector as it is listed above.


i cant find a wiring diagram with the dizzy pigtail on it to see were these wires are supposed to go. id like to test coninuity of these wires to the ECU.


oh one more semi dumb question. i had the ECU in diag mode and forgot. is the switch on or off for the engine to run?? id hate to be thinking that i havent got it if that is in the wrong postion.:eek::eek::eek:
 
#29 · (Edited)
ok here is what im working with here.


here are the ICMs (ign control modules) not sure but i think that i want to replace these
but at @$140 for both of them id like to eliminate everything else. they are very rusty
and one of them is cracked. if these are like coils then this might be my problem.?.?.?





any input is welcome! thanks guys!
 
#30 · (Edited)
dude ,
we need to back up just a little. i know ur dizzy is good .

those pics of the icm and the coils..

the resistor pack is supposed to be on a frame mounted with the coils.

check you pm

unplug the coils and clean all that rust and crap up.

vacumn it out and wire brush down to where the coils would bolt up..

see if you can find the originall bolts the hold the coils in place ..remove them and wire brush down to bare metal..
 
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