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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 95 sentra and lately the car is running poor.i commute approx 1000 miles per week and car has 200k on it.the idle is a little rough (not too bad) but last night the car would hardly maintain 50 mph on highway.when getting home i noticed the exhaust manifold was glowing,yes,glowing.in the past few days i have done the basics(plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel filter,and checked timing) has anyone had this happen????are the cat converters known for plugging up??anyone know a way to check if there is a restriction it the exhaust?? thanks nissan forums
 

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Hmm I think that we have a similer issue? My car is a 96 Sentra that runs decent but has trouble on the highway maintaining speeds without downshifting. Has your car been loosing MPG's? I don't have much experiance with these cars so I can't say how much power there was before I had it when it was newer?? Have you talked with a mechanic yet? I believ that there is a valve train issue with mine especially since I have a noise at peak torque??
 

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It sounds like your cat is clogged. 2 choices depending on where u live and how you are about laws.
Replace with a new one, replace with test pipe(a pipe that connects where the at was)
or my favorite 3rd option. Yank it off and gut it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i removed my exhaust from the factory exhaust manifold today...no help.the engine is now running rough at all engine speeds.i think i will try to limp it into a place where i can have them scope all engine parameters to see where the problem is.thanks
 

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my problem isn't in the drivetrain.... while in park the engine struggles to rev and can hardly reach 5000 rpm,however,last time out my mileage was baaaadddd.now the car can hardly pull itself anywhere. thanks
 

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Just stabing at it blindly! Believe me I sure wish I new a bit more about these vehicals! Then again anything mechanical these day's is high tech. and requires factory training before you can answer the questions asked! Either that or you have been there done that though trial and erra LoL!!
 

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i know exactly what you mean!!!i did have the fuel pressure tested and it is o.k...the shop where i took it to seems to think either the timing chain has stretched or it has jumped a tooth on the gears..not good.anyone else had this with these engines?????????
 

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You have maybe 4 options.
1. As mentioned earlier, either you have clocked CAT or muffler
2. When you checked your timing, it went totally wrong and is now way much retarded.
3. Clocked up fuel filter
4. If all above are fine then there is no other option but the engine is running lean. It might be because of:
a) Very oddly broken up lambda sensor
b) fuel pump loosing pressures (don't know if ECU would light Check Engine Light)
c) clocked injectors (saying more than one injector because seems like whole engine is running lean and not just one cylinder)
d) And one thing that sounds like a bit odd but broke my friends engine. He hadn't tightened spark plugs enough so one cylinder went lean and (if I remember correctly) burned up valves.
e) MAF dirty? I don't remember if MAF voltage increases with airflow increasing or if it decreases.

These should help because there are not so many things that has so big affect.

- No-Pain -
 

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My bud say's that my car might have jumped time? I don't beieve it though because if it jumped time wouldn't it run real rough? I know that any engine that I have had that had timing issue's alwys had a rough uneven idle. Not sure how your idle is but mine is smooth as glass...
 

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I doubt that chains have jumped over one tooth because just renewing those parts on my engine and tighteners must be in very bad shape before that happens and that means pretty much voice coming out the chains. Thought possible it is still.

More propable possipilibility might be that distributor hasn't been properly tightened and it has moved to wrong position.

And I'm not sure either that would valves hit to pistons if timing would go wrong... ? Does anyone know?

- No-Pain -
 

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Ya no doubt the timing parts are very stought on these cars for sure and mine looked perfect,besides the wear on the guide but it's new now so vote is that the timing is fine. But the only way to find out for sure is though a light on it and see... I happen to think my engine my have some issues with the valves being out of adjustment from the ticking I am getting. I am also thinking maybe if the oil pressure is weak in the upper rr's that the valve train may not be actuating properly? It all comes down to one thing for me and engine with a lot of miles can have maney small issues that colectivly will bring it own in performance and reliability. That being said I have found a low miler out of a wrech for a decent price and I will be swapping the hole thing trany and all. Then I will put it on the stand and go through it as money alows and build it the way I would want it built....Sorry about the ramble got carried away......
 

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I have heard from all over that it's pretty normal that vents keeps some noise on GA:s but when talking with some specific persons who might know better they decided me to try out castrol oil. So I'll be reporting results as soon as I manage to assemble my car and change the assembling oils to castrol.

And if we talk of lot of miles on GA then it's more like 300-400 tkm. It's very durable engine so I'd say that decent oil and decent changin intervals will keep teh engine fine.

But this is just how cars are in finland. I don't know your situation so exactly.

Keep us posted when you have tested all the cheap things I mentioned above. :)

- No-Pain -
 

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Discussion Starter #13
went ahead and dove into top side of engine to inspect cam sprockets and upper chain,tensioner,etc....my exhaust cam sproket has a tooth broke and the idler sproket is worn down soo far it now only resembles a sproket.the book calls for removing the head to change both chains but if the lower chain and gears look o.k. i might try to get away with just replacing the upper stuff.has anyone been able to remove the idler sproket without removing the cylinder head????
 

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Hmm I just had mine apart and did the upper tensioner/guide and all of the parts looked sweet! Then again we have differant issues but similer miles. I'm still trying to figure out what my 2krpm noise is only when the engine is hot? It seems to me that the clearences are changing in the valve train causing this? Shim maybe or lifter?? I don't know? I think If I were you I would spend the minimum because with this many miles who knows what will were out next? That is why I think I am going to jump on a used combo out of a wreck before getting to crazy with what I have......... Keep us posted I am very interested in knowing what you find....
 
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