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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OMG...
what did I do!?!
I was going to park in my friends garage and he told me to pull up and wait and the garage was higher than normal elevation. Anyways, the driveway that went in to the garage was VERY steep, at least 45 degrees I would say, and so I was holding the clutch and giving a little gas so I dont pull forward and hit the garage but also so I dont hit the fence 5 feet behind me.
I was holding the car on the incline at a steady 1k rpms for about 20-30 seconds.

My friend finally opened the garage and I let the clutch out slowly to make it up and in to the garage. Anyways, this is when the problem occured. When I finally got up and completely stopped, I finally put the car in nuetral and was about to turn off the car, but... the CLUTCH PEDAL WOULDNT COME OUT ALL THE WAY... wtf!!! I was kinda freaking out, I dont know what was wrong. I pressed it in again and let go and it actually came out all the way, but it felt weird, it didnt feel right... like as if clutch pedal travel shortened or something. But I reversed and took it for a spin and now 50-60% of the time or more the pedal gets stuck half way or so. But its out enough for complete lock up to the rear wheels. Please help me, Did I mess something up? omg I have NO MONEY...

ahhhhh

its a 1986 Nissan 300zx non-turbo
PLEASE help me someone
 

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ZPOOLNZ
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Check the fluid levels, then the master and slave cylinders.

And I would advise you not to slip your clutch like that to hold the car on a hill there is an e-brake use it. The thing is slipping it like that wears the clutch disk out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How though? Because the clutch was slipping for an extended amount of time?

Thanks for the input by the way really appreciate it.

How long will this thing last like this? and when it does "totally" go out what happens?

thanks again
 

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BoBakTXL said:
How though? Because the clutch was slipping for an extended amount of time?

Thanks for the input by the way really appreciate it.

How long will this thing last like this? and when it does "totally" go out what happens?

thanks again
Think of a clutch as being like a disk brake pad (which it essentially is). If you ride your brakes all the time, they wear out very quickly. Your clutch disk was slipping against the flywheel, as you said, for a good 20 seconds or so, this created a tremendous amount of heat and wear on the clutch surface where it goes against the flywheel. I would not have been surprised to see your flywheel glowing red after this incident, you were basically dissipating over 60 Hp and about 100 lbs of torque as heat energy.......
This is not a good thing. You most likely put the equivalent of 5000-10,000 miles of clutch wear in just a few seconds.

One way to test if the clutch is still holding is to take it out on the road, up to about 30 mph in 3rd or 4th gear, and push the gas all the way down. If the engine revs up with no appreciable increase in acceleration, your clutch is going out.

Other possibilities include that you fried your rear main seal in the intense heat and oil is now contaminating the clutch face, it will cause the same effect I described. But you'll also notice oil drippings under your car.

As far as the clutch pedal not coming all the way out, check you fluid level as was first suggested. You may also wish to crawl under the car and inspect the slave cylinder, right on the side of the transmission. It was also exposed to a large amount of heat, as was the throwout bearing, you have consequently put both items much closer to their failure points than they should be.

The final explanation to your low pedal situation is simply excessive clutch wear. As a clutch wears out, the pedal comes up less and less high and the clutch becomes much more touchy. The lowest I've ever seen a clutch pedal "engage" was 3 inches off the floor. On an extremely badly worn clutch btw, it barely didn't slip creeping away from a stoplight at low rpm.

The lesson to be learned here is: Don't ever do that again. That's what emergency brakes are for. Unless you like doing clutch jobs every few thousand miles. Not mention flywheel replacement, this sort of thing can badlly damage a flywheel, and heat stress fractures can cause a flywheel explosion in the long run. I can show you pictures of what happens when that happens. It's not pretty and can damage the vehicle in the extreme.
 

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It really sounds more like a slave cylinder. You really did hurt the clutch with 30 seconds of slipping. Replace the cheap stuff first. Slave and master cylinder first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks MORE THAN ALOT skd, i appreciate it bro, I know exactly how clutches work and all, but just cant work on them nor did I know about what you said, I do now, thanks :thumbup:

Anyways, umm... ok this is kinda newbish but where is the clutch fluid resorvoir, and also how much does it cost to get the slave/master cylinders replaced?

The clutch is grabbing perfectly. The clutch I put the car in 3rd gear going about 30 mph and floored it for 2-3 seconds, nothing happened, the clutch grabbed 100% and the engine did NOT rev and not go, everything was fine, but please point me in the right direction, is it ok to drive like this?

I will make sure to ALWAYS use the emergency brake at stop lights now. Thanks more than alot everyone
 

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BoBakTXL said:
thanks MORE THAN ALOT skd, i appreciate it bro, I know exactly how clutches work and all, but just cant work on them nor did I know about what you said, I do now, thanks :thumbup:

Anyways, umm... ok this is kinda newbish but where is the clutch fluid resorvoir, and also how much does it cost to get the slave/master cylinders replaced?

The clutch is grabbing perfectly. The clutch I put the car in 3rd gear going about 30 mph and floored it for 2-3 seconds, nothing happened, the clutch grabbed 100% and the engine did NOT rev and not go, everything was fine, but please point me in the right direction, is it ok to drive like this?

I will make sure to ALWAYS use the emergency brake at stop lights now. Thanks more than alot everyone
Tee hee looks like I got come credit that deserved to go to Eric;)

As long as your 100% sure it isn't slipping it'll be alright.
 

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get into a higher gear (3rd, 4th, 5th) and get the engine speed to about 3500 or so rpms....then floor it. On my car (the clutch is totalled) it will just rev up to 5000 or so with no more speed, if yours doesn't do that, you should be fine. I believe that master and slave are easy to swap, cause i just did mine. like maybe $50 total parts for slave, master, and this clutch dampener mod. Took about an hour total with a vacuum bleeder. Easy as pie.....
 

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He's already done it in 3rd and said he had no problem

He's also got a NA so no turbo to worry about coming in and making it slip like mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
alright thanks alot.

But im still a little confused, what do I do and where are the master/slave cylinder resorvoirs?

Please help, thanks
 

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If you follow your clutch pedal linkage it's right on the other side of the firewall. It'll have a little resivoir on top of it. The slave cylinder in on the passenger side of the transmission about 2 foot back from the front tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
SKD_Tech said:
If you follow your clutch pedal linkage it's right on the other side of the firewall. It'll have a little resivoir on top of it. The slave cylinder in on the passenger side of the transmission about 2 foot back from the front tire.
Alright thanks alot, ill check it out tomorrow...
but what exactly am I looking for? Am I supposed to see how much fluid is left or missing or something? .. :hal:
Thx
 

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BoBakTXL said:
Alright thanks alot, ill check it out tomorrow...
but what exactly am I looking for? Am I supposed to see how much fluid is left or missing or something? .. :hal:
Thx
Yes, and check the slave cylinder on the side of the tranny for leakage
 

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The slave cylinder is about 2 1/2" - 3" long and it pushes on a arm. Once you get the car jacked up there should be no problem finding it. Check the hoses, bleed it, refill if needed.
 
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