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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2010 pathfinder that turns over a lot before starting but only when its cold. Just started doing that this year. The colder it is the longer it takes to finally start.start. I've been told bad maf sensor,distributor cap,dirty injectors could be causing the problems. But why do I only have problems when its cold. I will say that I didn't start noticing this issue until I put a used interstate battery in the car. I don't know if that's a coincidence or what but it turns over normally just takes forever to crank. And today it wouldnt crank at all so.... Any thoughts? And the engine light is not on.
 

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When the engine is cold, spin the engine and see if you're getting a strong spark at the plugs. If not, the battery may have some weak cells, so at this point the interstate battery would be the prime suspect.
 

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2010 pathfinder that turns over a lot before starting but only when its cold. Just started doing that this year. The colder it is the longer it takes to finally start.start. I've been told bad maf sensor,distributor cap,dirty injectors could be causing the problems. But why do I only have problems when its cold. I will say that I didn't start noticing this issue until I put a used interstate battery in the car. I don't know if that's a coincidence or what but it turns over normally just takes forever to crank. And today it wouldnt crank at all so.... Any thoughts? And the engine light is not on.
again & again
most people over-think these symptoms
cold batteries are at a disadvantage, especially since they have not had the benefit of recharging while parked
cold engines are harder to start because it is harder for the starter to spin them due to oil being thicker when cold
unless the battery condition, battery post condition, cable clamp condition & tightness on posts (watch that negative cable clamp, may still be loose on post even with pinch nut is tight) are all good, it will be hard to start
any problem described here will cause the ignition system to lack the power that it needs for sufficient spark at the plugs to fire up the engine

1) charge & load test battery, replace if necessary
2) clean cable end clamps, replace if necessary
3) start engine & check charging system output
let us know if this works - it nearly ALWAYS does :)
 

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Ok. Same problem. At 40 degrees it WILL NOT start. 50 degrees it starts EVERY time without fail. in between those 40 and 50 degrees maybe starts, maybe doesn't. This is a 2007 Pathfinder. It has brand new terminals (old ones corroded beyond belief because some idiot put copper terminals on it) and because of the older bad terminals, I put a brand new battery in it last year. All work done by a nissan dealership service dept. ( who could admittedly be just as stupid as a non nissan service dept so....there's always that).

3 weeks ago during a cold snap, I blew a relay. I could HEAR the difference in the cranking as soon as it blew, but at the time didn't know what exactly had changed, just that something had changed. Towed to repairshop and found out it was a relay that was repaired. Now we have a new cold snap and I'm back to where I was, I just try less often and for shorter periods of time to get the thing started.

Anything else it could be, besides battery/starter issues(as these have all be checked and determined not to be the problem)??
 

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Ok. Same problem. At 40 degrees it WILL NOT start. 50 degrees it starts EVERY time without fail. in between those 40 and 50 degrees maybe starts, maybe doesn't. This is a 2007 Pathfinder. It has brand new terminals (old ones corroded beyond belief because some idiot put copper terminals on it) and because of the older bad terminals, I put a brand new battery in it last year. All work done by a nissan dealership service dept. ( who could admittedly be just as stupid as a non nissan service dept so....there's always that).

3 weeks ago during a cold snap, I blew a relay. I could HEAR the difference in the cranking as soon as it blew, but at the time didn't know what exactly had changed, just that something had changed. Towed to repairshop and found out it was a relay that was repaired. Now we have a new cold snap and I'm back to where I was, I just try less often and for shorter periods of time to get the thing started.

Anything else it could be, besides battery/starter issues(as these have all be checked and determined not to be the problem)??
what was the result of the battery load test, and did you test it both before & after charging it?
does the engine re-start OK after being driven, after a difficult cold start?
is the charging system output normal?
 

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Haven't done a load test on the battery because it's brand new and has never been run down enough to require recharging with a battery charger. (at some point, the weather usually warms up and then the car fires up normal as can be)

As for re-starting.....that's never an issue, until I let it go too far between starts in cold weather. i.e. IF I get it started, I can re-start it as many times as I feel the need to do so, as long as I do not let the engine cool off back to air temp for 2 long. And it always fires up immediately, cleanly, and easily. However, once I've waiting until it's back to basically air temp, it's back to endless cranking with no fire up until the temp goes up or I get EXTREMELY lucky.

This issue was NEVER an issue at any temperature until October/november 2014 when I had to put it in the shop for what turned out to be an issue with some sensor in the ignition that tells the ECM that you're using the correct key, which it took Victory Nissan in Victoria, Texas almost 6 weeks to diagnose ( I kid you not). In the coarse of all this diagnosis, it was let's try this and let's try that....and that's how I come to have new battery cable terminals, a new battery, and finally, a new sensor whatever the hell it is in the ignition. This, after I told the idiots that the problem was SOMETHING to do with the ignition and the security features INVOLVING the ignition sequence. Because the problem At THAT TIME was sometimes it started and sometimes not, but if you did the key reset sequence a few times after it not starting, it would sometimes miraculously begin working again. Which seems fairly consistent with a part that is going bad but not quite failed altogether. 6 weeks of them goofing around with every possible thing EXCEPT the ignition system directly kinda left me with the feeling that they ain't very good at what they are supposed to be doing, eh?

So.....5.5 weeks in, they have finally nailed down the problem, replaced the part, and the damn thing starts. And then, on the morning I was to come pay and drive away, they call to tell me that when they tried to start it in the AM, it won't start, no reason why that they can find. (it had been 35-ish that morning, I didn't know it at the time, but my new "Next problem" had arrived)

2 days later, I get the call, it needs a new fuel injection assembly, another $400 some dollars, yea! They go ahead with that repair and I come pick the POS up, it works fine for the remainder of the time that I'm in Victoria(finishing up a job, btw), because the temp is above 40 degrees for the next week or so. However, once I'm back home in Indiana, the temp is well below zero for a few weeks and I'm once again out a vehicle. I was off for a few weeks so it wasn't a big deal, I just let it sit. Weather warmed up and things were back to normal operation. It stayed warmer, I had no issues the rest of winter and it started everytime, all the time all through summer and fall. Then came the below 40 degree weather and it's back to not starting.

So, I'm left with a temperature dependent vehicle in an area where it frequently falls below 40 degrees for long stretches every year. I Suppose it *could* be the battery, but gut feeling tells me it's something to do with fuel/air mix. That, of course, has yet to be actually proven, but *other* than the battery being too small for the job at hand, I'm not sure what the hell else, physically speaking, could be directly related to the air temperature the vehicle is in. Last time it was in the shop, a few weeks ago with the relay deal, they tested the fuel pump and it is supposedly working fine.

That's it, sorry the response was so long. And thank you for your reply too, btw. :)
 

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P.s. Forgot to mention the that battery was supposedly checked at the shop a few weeks ago, i meant that I'd not personally checked this myself.
 

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Haven't done a load test on the battery because it's brand new and has never been run down enough to require recharging with a battery charger. (at some point, the weather usually warms up and then the car fires up normal as can be)

As for re-starting.....that's never an issue, until I let it go too far between starts in cold weather. i.e. IF I get it started, I can re-start it as many times as I feel the need to do so, as long as I do not let the engine cool off back to air temp for 2 long. And it always fires up immediately, cleanly, and easily. However, once I've waiting until it's back to basically air temp, it's back to endless cranking with no fire up until the temp goes up or I get EXTREMELY lucky.

This issue was NEVER an issue at any temperature until October/november 2014 when I had to put it in the shop for what turned out to be an issue with some sensor in the ignition that tells the ECM that you're using the correct key, which it took Victory Nissan in Victoria, Texas almost 6 weeks to diagnose ( I kid you not). In the coarse of all this diagnosis, it was let's try this and let's try that....and that's how I come to have new battery cable terminals, a new battery, and finally, a new sensor whatever the hell it is in the ignition. This, after I told the idiots that the problem was SOMETHING to do with the ignition and the security features INVOLVING the ignition sequence. Because the problem At THAT TIME was sometimes it started and sometimes not, but if you did the key reset sequence a few times after it not starting, it would sometimes miraculously begin working again. Which seems fairly consistent with a part that is going bad but not quite failed altogether. 6 weeks of them goofing around with every possible thing EXCEPT the ignition system directly kinda left me with the feeling that they ain't very good at what they are supposed to be doing, eh?

So.....5.5 weeks in, they have finally nailed down the problem, replaced the part, and the damn thing starts. And then, on the morning I was to come pay and drive away, they call to tell me that when they tried to start it in the AM, it won't start, no reason why that they can find. (it had been 35-ish that morning, I didn't know it at the time, but my new "Next problem" had arrived)

2 days later, I get the call, it needs a new fuel injection assembly, another $400 some dollars, yea! They go ahead with that repair and I come pick the POS up, it works fine for the remainder of the time that I'm in Victoria(finishing up a job, btw), because the temp is above 40 degrees for the next week or so. However, once I'm back home in Indiana, the temp is well below zero for a few weeks and I'm once again out a vehicle. I was off for a few weeks so it wasn't a big deal, I just let it sit. Weather warmed up and things were back to normal operation. It stayed warmer, I had no issues the rest of winter and it started everytime, all the time all through summer and fall. Then came the below 40 degree weather and it's back to not starting.

So, I'm left with a temperature dependent vehicle in an area where it frequently falls below 40 degrees for long stretches every year. I Suppose it *could* be the battery, but gut feeling tells me it's something to do with fuel/air mix. That, of course, has yet to be actually proven, but *other* than the battery being too small for the job at hand, I'm not sure what the hell else, physically speaking, could be directly related to the air temperature the vehicle is in. Last time it was in the shop, a few weeks ago with the relay deal, they tested the fuel pump and it is supposedly working fine.

That's it, sorry the response was so long. And thank you for your reply too, btw. :)
is your battery the correct one for your truck?
 

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Maybe I am just too trusting despite my extreme lack of faith in nissan service techs/shops, but I have assumed that since it was in fact installed by the idiots AT nissan that it's the correct battery. I suppose it's possible that they can't even manage that much without having their hands held and their work triple checked.

I will check that now. I will make the unneeded assumption before hand that it is EXACTLY the bare minimum CCA required by the Pathfinder to start, because that's how Nissan rolls. I do know what the battery it came with was rated at 550 CCA so I'm willing to bet that that's exactly what they put back in with a new battery.

While I do that. IF (I know it's a big if, lol) we throw out the battery as the problem......any Ideas as to what else the problem could be?
 

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Did you read my Post #3, above?
I'm not ready to throw out the battery as a problem (yet).
I own two R51 Pathfinders, both 2005s.
I've experienced these symptoms many times, about every three years on each truck.
If the battery has not been properly serviced & load tested, it should be.
We don't know that it has.
When they tested it at the dealership, for all we know they may have checked the voltage, and that's all.
And sometimes even new batteries can be defective.
 

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I did. Unfortunately, I have run out of time for tinkering with it. I've had to have it hauled into the garage. They can sort it out. It needs to be running ASAP as I've got a job to go to. This thing is nothing but a collection of problems. Low beam lights are also out and as with the battery, I couldn't tinker with it due to the hood being frozen shut and a 5 day stretch of single digit temps. I'll post the "diagnosis" from this trip when I get a chance. I'm sure it will be $500 or more, as per the usual with this lemon.
 

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I'd be interested to know what the trouble turns out to be.
Has anyone approached any of this by looking for a poor - ground issue?
 

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I will post what, if anything, is learned. Following a check on the battery, my next area of interest was going to be the grounding. I've read in more than one place both on this site and other forums that grounding has been the fault for issues similar to this and others that I've experienced with this Pathfinder. Everything from coming loose to being so badly corroded that they've needed not just cleaning but complete replacement.

The only reason it hasn't been higher on my list of suspects is that I've had loose/faulty grounds before with other vehicles and at those times, the list of strange happenings from those have been quite a bit longer with more than a few tell-tale type signs. Flickering lights, random lack of response when turning the key(just literally nothing happens), wild fluctuations in the volt meter readings, etc.

Btw, Thank you for your responses. They are much appreciated.
 

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aggravated with pathfinder

I just read your entire thread of challenges with your vehicle and I am having same challenges. To this point we have replaced the crankshaft sensor, power distribution module, black terminal cable wiring, new factory oem battery with highest ccr. - $1100 in and 3 days later temperature drops and the car doesn't start - cranks but no start. I am so annoyed and have no idea what's next. I have read multiple threads of theories but no ultimate root cause.

sorry don't have a proposal for you but did want to sympathize you are not alone in the aggravation.
 

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I have same problem with pathfinder 2007. I just put a new battery from costco but still if it is below -2 and I have not used it for one day, it will not start, although cranks ok. It would start with a minor boost from my other car. Cant figure out what it is.
 

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Did any of you ever figure out what the problem was???? Have been doing all the same things. No one can figure out the problem!
 

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aggravated with pathfinder

I just read your entire thread of challenges with your vehicle and I am having same challenges. To this point we have replaced the crankshaft sensor, power distribution module, black terminal cable wiring, new factory oem battery with highest ccr. - $1100 in and 3 days later temperature drops and the car doesn't start - cranks but no start. I am so annoyed and have no idea what's next. I have read multiple threads of theories but no ultimate root cause.
One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. If you have a copy of the FSM for your vehicle, the code readout procedure is described there along with a listing of codes. You can download a copy of the FSM from this web site: https://ownersmanuals2.com/. The section EC.PDF is the one you need to read.

When the vehicle is unable to start, you'll have to determine at that moment if there's an ignition or fuel delivery problem:

* Testing fuel delivery:
An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel feed hose from the fuel rail and connect it to a long length of spare hose with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds.

Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. The readings at idle should be 51 psi. If the engine is unable to start, turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. The fuel pressure reading should still be around 51 psi which would be a static reading.

The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector.

* Testing ignition:
Pull several coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine.

* The cam timing may be incorrect:
Check for a broken chain guide. See if it's broken or it may be cracked and has skipped some teeth.

* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak:
To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg. If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
 

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OK, I'm bumping this thread. I have a 2010 V6 SE. Had the problem all last winter, multiple trips to the dealership, ALL repairs listed in this thread have been done. Then spring came and all was good. Now here we go again. 30 degrees this morning and it won't start again. Has anyone figured this out or is this just a mystery never to be solved?
 

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OK, I'm bumping this thread. I have a 2010 V6 SE. Had the problem all last winter, multiple trips to the dealership, ALL repairs listed in this thread have been done. Then spring came and all was good. Now here we go again. 30 degrees this morning and it won't start again. Has anyone figured this out or is this just a mystery never to be solved?
If you haven't performed the procedural diagnostic steps that I outlined with my above post, then I would highly recommend it; otherwise you'll be just chasing your tail and spending a needless amount of expense.
 
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