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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Required Materials:
Automotive Sandable Primer
Dupli-Color Enamel Paint
Dupli-Color Automotive Clearcoat
Hair dryer


Note: Dupli-Color is recommended but is not necessary, if you have a brand you prefer use that but please make sure it is a top quality brand.

1. Remove and mask off one test piece
Remove one small little piece as a demonstration. Pop off the ashtray on the back-end of the center console or use a piece you might have in your garage. Mask off any part that you do not want paint to hit.

2. Sand it down
use 300 grit sandpaper. Sand it all completely and evenly. Make sure you get all the edges. Then move to a smoother sandpaper, use 600. This will smooth everything our and make it ready to paint.

3. Wash it off
Wash off all the dust from sanding it, dry and let sit for a few minutes.

4. Spray first coat of primer
evenly spray your first coat of primer. Make sure you get every spot, but MAKE SURE YOU GET IT EVENLY. Spray left to right in smooth strokes, not up and down. Begin spraying before you're even aiming at it, then as you spray move to the right over the object to ensure a smooth coats and no drip marks.

5. Let it dry
Let the first coat completely dry. Use your hairdryer at a low setting and evenly blow it all over the object. After a couple of minutes set the hairdryer to a higher setting. Blow the hairdryer on the object for about 5 minutes to ensure dryness. Make sure the hairdryer is about 6 inches of the part if not you might make marks in your paint.

6. Spray second coat of primer
Repeat step 4.

7. Let it dry
Repeat step 5.

8. Spray first coat of your chosen color
after it is completely dry, spray on the color by following the same steps as when you sprayed the primer. Repeat spraying and drying until you have three coats of the color on your part.

9. Add clearcoat
Clearcoat will protect your new interior's paintjob. Without clearcoat the paint will scratch off very easily. Follow the same steps when spraying on clearcoat as you did when you sprayed on the primer and the final color. Spray two coats of clearcoat on each piece.

10. Re-install
it’s now time to re-install your piece that you painted.

 

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Ok one quick question on this subject, this is something i might look into for my B14 but i was just wondering, If i was to mask off part of my dash and paint it like that should i then remove the mask and clear coat the entire thing or just clear coat it and then remove the mask.
 

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Nismo1997 said:
Take it off and out of the car when you paint.
wow.....you would think that was a given :jawdrop:


any who, i have used the krylon fusion paint and it stick very well. if you use in it an area that dosent get touched much yu dont even need to clear coat it. also, its a good idea to use "adheasion promoter" as a primer

congrats on the sticky :thumbup:
 

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no thats not what i mean... of course i know you take it out of the car, i meant like masking off around the vents and such so i can do like a 2 tone scheme w/ the coloring, would i clear coat it w/ the mask on or pull the mask and then clear coat the entire thing.
 

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hmmm, you mean paint it one color, then mask off and paint it another and have 2 colors correct? yes you would clear the entire thing. if you clear 2 times (once for each color) you will get a "ridge" and it will need sanding. when you are done color painting use 1000 grit and sand where the 2 colors meet very very lightly to get rid of the rough edge before you clear it.
 

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ugg no still not getting it... i mean as in keeping the stock color of the dash but only doing part of it in say blue, would i clear coat over only the blue or over all of the dash.
 

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I think the answer would be the same. If you only do clear on part of it, you could probably see were the clear coat went over, kinda like someone spilling nail polish on your dash. It would be somewhat raised, since clear coat has depth. So you'd have to sand down that edge. Or if the place where you painted was kinda reccessed into the dash the clear may not stick out as much. I think I got this right, anyone else know?
 

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if you clear the origonal plastic it will shine it up and it wont match, also it most likly will not stick so you will have chipping, flacky, shiny plastic.
 

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use duplicolor "high performance wheel coating" clear coat. this is the thoughest clear coat i have used to date.
 

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heres a few pics.



::WARNING:: as you can see in the 2nd picture that it looks wavey well i thought it would dry quicker to use a blow dryer...i wouldnt recomend it. you cant notice it while its in the car but still it bothers me.
 

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I wanted to paint my grey panels black for the SE-R look. I have in the past used acetone to clean the plastic, then sanded it down with 300 also. So what paint is the best for plastic, krylon for plastic, or can you just use some other type?

Chris 92 classic :fluffy:
 

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ok, i am going to the beach with my friends this year and we got some plastic cups to make our king challaces (we are the kings of senior week, drinking colt 45 lol) well i used a krylon paint (krylon guilded brass) it dried in 3 minutes flat. and looks REALLY GOOD. this is what i did

1. wet sand with 800 gritt (a green scotch bright pad will do just fine)
2. wash away sand dust with dish soap (dont use car soap! it has wax in it and will make the paint not stick)
3. spray adheasion promoter on
4. paint

no matter how hard i tried i could not scratch the paint off, once it was dry i clay bar'd it to get any over spray off (alot came off) then i used plastic polish (its much finer than clear coat polish) and then i used a polishing wax. i ended up with an amazing shine. ill take a pic tonight (yes its a cup..... but plastic is plastic, and painting techniques are painting techniques)

for an OEM black look use duplicolor "trim paint" i have used this to restore the black trim in my 91 SE-R and it is nearly identicle, it is a satin black. just remember, you dont have to have the peice colored in one coat, go light the first coat, then alittle heavier the second. also placment of the object for painting is key, if you lay it flat and you ge heavy with the paint, it wont run as easy as if you had it side ways.

krylon and duplicolor are the only paints i will use, rustolium takes nearly 1 day to dry where as the krylon takes 15 minutes tops.

if you want the ultimate in shine, wet sand for final color coat with 1000 grit, and coat it in a layer of "duplicolor wheel coating clear coat" this goes on quite thick and once it is dry it is extremly strong.....accualy the strongest clear coat i have used to date.
 

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TRIM AROUND center ish

You are in the driver seat. you look at your radio, air controls, open slot, cup holders. The trim around that center stuff is what I want to paint. if you look at my car domain page ( http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/775251 ) you can see I painted the thing around my shifter because it is angled the paint was uneven and you can see little bumps. I have no experience painting other than what I've done in my car and I want to do this center piece trim but I want it to look right.

How can I make a nonflat surface's paint look smooth and flat.

please help
 
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