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I presume you have a QR25. That code can be caused by either the intake runner (tumble valve) sensor or the runner actuator. The sensor will be on the righthand rear of the engine just below the IVT Lock solenoid, the actuator will be on the lefthand rear underneath the throttle body. Both are a complete PITA to get at. Since the problem can be a broken or stripped runner mechanism and not just an electrical issue, the only good way to check what's causing the problem is to remove the manifold and power the actuator to see if the runner opens and closes. If I recall correctly, the sensors are available separately but the actuators require replacing the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I believe so so after about 2 hours of driving the check engine light comes on with the electronic stability control light and the car goes into limp mode will that have to do with whatever is going on also
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I presume you have a QR25. That code can be caused by either the intake runner (tumble valve) sensor or the runner actuator. The sensor will be on the righthand rear of the engine just below the IVT Lock solenoid, the actuator will be on the lefthand rear underneath the throttle body. Both are a complete PITA to get at. Since the problem can be a broken or stripped runner mechanism and not just an electrical issue, the only good way to check what's causing the problem is to remove the manifold and power the actuator to see if the runner opens and closes. If I recall correctly, the sensors are available separately but the actuators require replacing the intake manifold.
Yes I believe so so after about 2 hours of driving the check engine light comes on with the electronic stability control light and the car goes into limp mode will that have to do with whatever is going on
 

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I don't have ASIST in front of me at the moment, but yes, I believe P2004 will cause a limp. The slip lamp comes on because the ECM stops sending engine speed when it limps, so the ABS throws a derivative chassis code. The latter will clear itself to "past" after the key is cycled and the ECM starts transmitting again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you recommend I replace the tumbler valve and runner actuator? Or just buy a new intake manifold? Thanks i appreciate your replies.
 

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You're most welcome. On a gen5 Altie the sensor is serviceable separately, only the actuator and valve are part of the whole manifold. The sensors are the same from '13~'18, p/n 22620-3TA0A, and they're available on eBay for about $70. So you might want to do some diag to find out if that's the issue before you blow for a pricey manifold. The first thing I'd try is some straight shots of Gumout down the barrel past the air filter, sometimes the runner butterflies just crud-up and stick. Check your wiring too, both the sensor and actuator wires are a favorite of chewing rodents. The sensor isn't impossible to remove with the manifold in place, but it is very awkward. You need to pull the IVT Lock Solenoid (the solenoid furthest to the rear on the timing cover) to even see it. Once it's out, just put an ohmmeter on it and see if the resistance changes when you turn the shaft. If so, you're probably into a manifold, but if the sensor is dead you can just replace that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You're most welcome. On a gen5 Altie the sensor is serviceable separately, only the actuator and valve are part of the whole manifold. The sensors are the same from '13~'18, p/n 22620-3TA0A, and they're available on eBay for about $70. So you might want to do some diag to find out if that's the issue before you blow for a pricey manifold. The first thing I'd try is some straight shots of Gumout down the barrel past the air filter, sometimes the runner butterflies just crud-up and stick. Check your wiring too, both the sensor and actuator wires are a favorite of chewing rodents. The sensor isn't impossible to remove with the manifold in place, but it is very awkward. You need to pull the IVT Lock Solenoid (the solenoid furthest to the rear on the timing cover) to even see it. Once it's out, just put an ohmmeter on it and see if the resistance changes when you turn the shaft. If so, you're probably into a manifold, but if the sensor is dead you can just replace that.
You're most welcome. On a gen5 Altie the sensor is serviceable separately, only the actuator and valve are part of the whole manifold. The sensors are the same from '13~'18, p/n 22620-3TA0A, and they're available on eBay for about $70. So you might want to do some diag to find out if that's the issue before you blow for a pricey manifold. The first thing I'd try is some straight shots of Gumout down the barrel past the air filter, sometimes the runner butterflies just crud-up and stick. Check your wiring too, both the sensor and actuator wires are a favorite of chewing rodents. The sensor isn't impossible to remove with the manifold in place, but it is very awkward. You need to pull the IVT Lock Solenoid (the solenoid furthest to the rear on the timing cover) to even see it. Once it's out, just put an ohmmeter on it and see if the resistance changes when you turn the shaft. If so, you're probably into a manifold, but if the sensor is dead you can just replace that.
when you say straight shots of Gumout down the barrel how would I do that
 

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A spray can of Gumout or any other fuel solvent, take the top off the airbox and spray it straight into the throttle body while someone holds the RPM's up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I presume you have a QR25. That code can be caused by either the intake runner (tumble valve) sensor or the runner actuator. The sensor will be on the righthand rear of the engine just below the IVT Lock solenoid, the actuator will be on the lefthand rear underneath the throttle body. Both are a complete PITA to get at. Since the problem can be a broken or stripped runner mechanism and not just an electrical issue, the only good way to check what's causing the problem is to remove the manifold and power the actuator to see if the runner opens and closes. If I recall correctly, the sensors are available separately but the actuators require replacing the intake manifold.
Thanks again for your help can you help me out I’m trying to order the new intank manifold runner control valve tumble valve off Amazon but can’t find it would you happen to know the part number
 

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You'll need the manifold, the valve and actuator aren't replaceable as separate pieces. The manifolds have slight differences year-to-year, so your best bet is to visit NissanPartsDeal.com and enter your VIN. NPD is a consortium of Nissan dealers, so their diagrams and database are identical to Nissan DPC. That's the best way to get the exact p/n for your ride.
 
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