[himanshu]

I have a 98 Sentra GXE and it failed the emissions test because of this code.
I know there have been many threads regarding this code. Mostly answered by Nostrodomas. However, I am not familiar with lot of this stuff and therefore I need help in identifying the parts. One is "EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve", and the other is "EVAP canister purge control valve". The mechanic at a repair shop said he would replace the parts but can't gurantee that it will clear the check engine light. I would like to know if there is an easy solution to clearing this code. Also, how can a hard code be cleared from the ECU? Can AutoZone do this for me? Last time I tried to get the guy reset it for me said only dealer can clear the hard codes???

If you can upload a pics that would be REALLY helpful. You can use www.tinypic.com to upload a picture if you can't host it. It's free and easy.
Thanks again.


Edit: In the FSM, is this code same as DTC P1400? Does the diagnostic and troubleshooting steps apply as mentioned in the FSM? I guess in the 98 and above, there is also another purge control valve in the rear, can anyone post a picture of this? Much appreciated.

 

[UnkalledFor]

http://nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=77350&highlight=P0443

look it up in this post..it says

P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve circuit Malfunction

to reset the ECU i think all you have to do is disconnect the battery for a few minutes then reconnect it...correct me if i am wrong..

 

[himanshu]

Thanks for the reply. I know what the code says but my problem is I am not sure where these parts exactly are. I checked FSM for this and found what the "Solenoid valve" looks like but I was hoping that someone would have an actual picture of both of these two parts.

About the clearing the code, disconnecting the battery will erase all codes and reset the registers which will also fail the emissions test because they will not be in "ready" status. When you drive, the tests are performed and if it passes the test the registers get set to "ready".

Thanks again for the replies.

 

[payk]

the codes can be reset by the obd scan tool
you just have to drive around until 40-50 miles so that the "readiness" test will be reset as well.
Just borrwo the tool and drive around with it
it should show you all the things you need
such as code clearing and the readiness functions

 

[Ninety-Nine SE-L]

I believe this is the item of interest:

It's only on the 98s and 99s (GA and SR), they replaced the charcoal canister with a purge valve that releases the fuel tank fumes back into the engine. I actually removed mine and I got that code going on right now. It won't be much of a problem when I get my JWT 95 ECU. Once fixed, go to autozone and they'll reset all codes.

 

[Nostrodomas]

1st off check all of the hoses running to and from the valve. They usually don't go bad, but the lines rot or come disconnected.
This is not an easy problem to solve. The whole evap system is a pain in the ass.
Also have you messed with any of the vacuum lines lately? Like replaced or removed, im asking cause if a line or two get crossed you can also get that code as well.
If you really don't want to mess with it, just find a professional who specializes in evap systems. It should be very easy for them to diagnose and fix the problem. they have the correct tools to do so.

 

[himanshu]

Thanks all for your help. Thanks for that picture, it helped me locate the part. I have not touched or even know where the vacuum lines are since the car has always been at the dealer for repair/maintenance.
Just to clarify the part in the picture is "EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve" or the "EVAP canister purge control valve"? I think you mean the latter, in which case I will buy the purge control valve from the dealer and see if changing that works. If not, I am not sure if I will be able to troubleshoot this problem myself.

Also, where do you find a EVAP systems professional? I took my car to MIDAS and they didn't know any better than to replace the part and check the circuitry. I don't think they had the equipment to do this kind of diagnosis. Is there another place that you guys suggest? The dealer wants 500 bucks to solve this problem. Is it worth forking over that much for this problem?

 

[Nostrodomas]

Your best bet would be the dealership. They have all the right tools to diagnose the problem quick and somewhat cheap.