before you do this, have 3 prestone 50/50 coolant jugs. good bang for your buck. 2 for refill, 1 if you spill one or if you didn't drain the whole system. if that's still not enough, throw in some water between jugs. heh, just a lil
i was waiting for that qoute to be said. i put in an Autozone thermastat a ways back in my 240, nearly right after i got it. also rebuilt the front calipers (but some ahole that sold it left out an outer discpad and so i had to jb-mofo'n one on there.. never moved), tried to rebuild the rear calipers but after 60 bucks spent on trying to build the tool to do it, i said screw it and spent like 120-150 on brand new ones, then brake lines were changed... just the cheap black rubber ones, new, (well hidden, and not noticable beyond your 6k rims), bleed the lines... ...don't let me get into playin with old KA clutches. there's plenty of guys on here that know all about the direct clutch mod. "gettin rid of your box?"
On the thermastat, I thought the same thing with the smaller hole. But got the idea of there being air in the system because the Bleeder Bolt is so easily seen on the KA's Intake~~first port to you, just left of the Mating Surface that bolts onto the Head~~
you know those nice airtubes that you use to put bubbles in your fishtank?.. grab yourself a set of those.. all sizes from uber small to radiator hose size. ;] then ya got yourself a ton of any-sized, component vacuum system.. once you get the pump.
another way.. get a Vacuum Pump Kit like 15-30 $ at Autozone.
those smaller fishtank airpump hoses (the ones you attach the blue filterstone onto and drop into the tank?) are all about the same size as your..
Brake Bleeders
Clutch Bleeders
blah blah
well the reason i brought up the fishtank tubes instead of saying just go get a vacuum pump kit, is cuz the small size airpump.... comes with that blue filterstone thingy.... knock the blue filterstone thingy around till you come up with just the black hose attachment the blue filterstone thingy is glued to to attach to the hose... *flexes fingers* ...you use that hose that still has the black filter attachment still there, and attach the other end of the hose to an adapter to where you then can attach a small funnel...
thaz how you get the last of the air out.
the lil black thingy fits perfectly into your open Coolant System's air bleeder.
a vacuum pump kit's adapter also makes a nice seal.
but this is all the details... lol
WHEN ADDING COOLANT TO YOUR CAR, ALWAYS REMEMBER TO MASSAGE YOUR HOSE. ;]
pour coolant into the radiator.... it fills... is this the highest point in the coolant delivery system? no.
It's the Intake just before it attaches to the Head. There is a Bleed Port.
Make sure it's closed. now.
when the Radiator fills this time and everytime there after...
squeeze/massage/whack your Upper Radiator Hose... when you keep doing this.. gurgling will occur. ;] along with swallowing. heh heh! man i'm a lil "drunk" right now.
if you have a funnel sticking out of your rad cap that was pushed down hard enough to where it stays and holds fluid in... pour yourself a small pool.
**that is now the highest point in the coolant delivery system**
You got that Bleeder Valve open right? open it. ha, just kidding. don't. lol, not yet.
you will start to see the coolant lower... and..
a: gurgling,
b: moaning from having to do something, and
c: bubbling occurs...
oh and d: squirting from the Bleeder Port if you didn't keep it closed.
once it stops sucking in more coolant..
ONCE YOU STOP SEEIN BUBBLIES.
let the rest of the coolant in your funnel fall to the ground. ha.. for you eco lovers.. put a oil dran catch that's colored yellow underneath your car and catch it. duh.
leave the cap off! let it sit there with coolant aching to give your kids cancer via drinking water.
The Coolant System Bleeder Port... bolt. is now removed. that's right...
Open ''er Up!
that new homemade (engineered.. damnit), Funnel w/ the Fishtank Tube (or vacuum kit tube) goes into the open (hopefully not squirting yet.. i know, lame.. sux... but i'm the one that made her ...you know.. so i tell you how to do it so you can't. HA!) ....Coolant System Air Bleed ..threaded hole, hold the funnel up, fill the funnel and just hold it, trying to not get the waterfall effect where it rolls down your arm, armpit, and eneviteably to the pants. the weight of the coolant you put up top should push down and let those remaining bubbles come up to the funnel. *waits... waits...* *looks around and waits* wtf.. gd ...mit.. good school. ;]
entre: buddy happy and willing to piss off g/f by getting drunk and greasy with you!
:hal:
lol ..said buddy: more massaging can help...
ahh haha ...good jd n coke. lol
NO!.. lol. tell him to turn the key to on.
now you!
make sure the coolant doesn't go below the funnel and lower into the tube... in any Vacuum procedure, this is bad.. means you're sucking in air, instead of fluid like you're supposed to be.
if it gets low.. hit it up. goes too fast... turn it off.
air isn't too bad in the system .. if it's only a little. changing the thermastat and watching two coke bottles worth of coolant pour out before you had the yellow oil drain pan waiting.. is bad. ha, caughtcha. tree-killer! *told ya he'd get some on the driveway*
DO NOT ALLOW THE COOLANT TO SINK FARTHER THAN PAST THE FUNNEL WHEN YOU ARE FILLING EITHER SIDE!! this is similar to any other hydralic system.. AIR INSIDE IS BAD!! REAL BAD!! brakes fail, suspensions fail, active suspensions fail, clutches fail, etc. this is a lil different though, it can live with some air.. it just sorta moves cuz it's so small
and then it just sorta hovers ~~the steam~~ in the radiator.
A coolant system can't operate with air in that own circulatory system, if you have enough of it. There's is no coolant flow. It just collects in the low points and splashes around instead of flowing with the engine (which is exactly what you want your coolant to do... just like any other system, the tighter it is, the quicker the response is) ...and i think your waterpump/flowing coolant through the entire engine is something you want. Air can accumulate even if you didn't do much to the system at all, just bubbles that got moved around (think of a cave with a pond in it... vs. further down, a cave underwater)... but namely, the area the thermastat works in. When you took the thermastat off... it poured out a stL0@d of coolant. It needs to be submerged to work. In the KA, the thermastat is close to where the bleeder valve is, albeit, lower, but low enough to be a low point right? A curver here, a curve there, in the system and you've got an air pocket that formed when you were pullin parts off and puttin back on with no coolant in them. Hours later, new cuts, newly learned curse-words, when you just pour coolant into your radiator and stop when you see it full...
you're forgetting that there's still a huge air cave in the system, and with the way a waterpump works, it needs constant vacuum.. you get too many air caves in there and the fluid doesn't attach itself to itself ~~the fluid~~ and the water pump does not work... it just cools that one spot by the pump.. the whole engine is now put at risk of meltdown cuz of just a lil air. but it actually takes a bit.. it's just where it ends up staying.
air in your coolant is real bad for hydralics (worse for water pumps)... air in a clutch or brake can be really bad when driving... but it doesn't hurt the components.. just you. ;]
air in water pumps... hurt the system.
the components.. melt.
and unless you've always wanted an engine for a coffee table..