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Discussion Starter #1
My brother just picked up a Nissan Sentra with the GA16DE motor and it runs great. Problem was at first that it had water in the oil. Took the head off, found that the waterpump housing was leaking into the block? At least that is what he told me it looked like. Anyways, he got it back together with a new gasket set, new headgasket and all. Changed all the fluids, and went to test it and it's now blowing the water out of the radiator into the overflow tank. We found that this might have been happening for awhile because the lip just under the radiator cap had eroded away. We fixed that problem, and it still does it. So we took our compression tester apart, used the adapter from it to put compressed air into each cylinder and got bubbles in the radiator from all 4 cylinders. This motor runs great - doesn't smoke at all - and now doesn't have any water in the oil, and no oil in the water. We can't figure out why this is happening now. Figured a Nissan website would be the best place to find the answer. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Justin
 

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did you check to see if the cylinder head was cracked?
could be in that, or one of the gaskets was not set properly?
 

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Good suggestions mentioned. The head could be warped. It looks like the original problem of water in the oil (hg) was never really fixed. I hate to say it but it needs to be taken off and done again :thumbdwn: . Take the head to the machine shop and have them pressure test the head. If it is still good then have them give the head a "resurfacing" so that it is precisley smooth. If you plan on keeping the car now would be a good time to do a valve job and vss.
 

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Wise Cracker
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What you did is VERY smart. Bubbles in the coolant when using compressed air in the cylinders means there is a leak in the head gasket, and if it happened in all 4 cylinders something is definately wrong.

To make sure bleed the coolant system per the FSM, which says to remove both air bleed plugs and fill ntil coolant spills from both, then top off. Take the radiator cap and use a piece of metal or another small object to hold the pressure cap open. Put the cap on the car and start it, let the vehicle get to operating temp and rev the car 3 times past 3500 RPM's or so. Remove radiator cap and top off coolant, repeast procedure at least two times. Make sure the heat selector is set to HOT when coolant is added and bleeding the system.

If the car still overheats after this has been done the headgasket is leaking.
 

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Cone Dodger
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there's also a spill-free funnel kit out there that lets you have constant coolant while bleeding the system until it reaches operating temp so you don't have to risk getting burned by hot coolant. it also introduces a new high point for the trapped air to escape and also reduces spills. i picked mine up from a snap-on tool truck for about less than $30, well, depending on the dealer.
 

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azkicker0027 said:
there's also a spill-free funnel kit out there that lets you have constant coolant while bleeding the system until it reaches operating temp so you don't have to risk getting burned by hot coolant. it also introduces a new high point for the trapped air to escape and also reduces spills. i picked mine up from a snap-on tool truck for about less than $30, well, depending on the dealer.
Sounds useful. Actually the way I posed does the same thing as it keeps the cooling system from being pressurized, thus hot coolant does not come spewing out when you remove the cap....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We pulled it back apart, the head is for sure warped pretty good. Like I had said before, the car runs/did run perfect, didn't smoke at all, so maybe just resurfacing the head and putting it back together should be ok. This isn't like we have a ton of money wrapped up in the car. We pick up abandoned cars from repair shops, this one like many that we get still ran, just that the owner didn't want to pay to get it fixed so they dumped it. If anything I'll stop in the local U-Wrench-It and pull another head and hope that it's not warped as bad. Thanks for the posts.
 

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TwiztidKidd
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Also you could change the oil when you put the new head on your engine since overheating kills most of the oil's additives.
 

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fresca4u2 said:
We pulled it back apart, the head is for sure warped pretty good. Like I had said before, the car runs/did run perfect, didn't smoke at all, so maybe just resurfacing the head and putting it back together should be ok. This isn't like we have a ton of money wrapped up in the car. We pick up abandoned cars from repair shops, this one like many that we get still ran, just that the owner didn't want to pay to get it fixed so they dumped it. If anything I'll stop in the local U-Wrench-It and pull another head and hope that it's not warped as bad. Thanks for the posts.
My machine shop charges $5 for a pressure test, why wouldn't you want to pay for one to be done? Even if its $20 isn't it worth not having to redo the entire job like you just did?
Anyways I still stick to my original suggestion- pressure test and a resurface job (even if it "looks" good).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Why would I pay someone else to put a compression gauge on the thing and crank it over just to tell me what I already know? Only took about an hour to have the head back off anyway.
 

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fresca4u2 said:
Why would I pay someone else to put a compression gauge on the thing and crank it over just to tell me what I already know? Only took about an hour to have the head back off anyway.
Pressure test, not a COMPRESSION test. The shop has a plate with 4 holes in it that seals like the headgasket would. Compressed air is then introduced into the cooling path via adapter plates. You then listen and spray a solution looking for the air escaping. If it is escaping the head has a crack in it. Like your last one did :rolleyes: .
 
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