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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone experienced an oil leak after they changed to synthetic? I am in the process of buying a 1992 NX2000 with 74,000 miles on it and would like to use synthetic. Any opinions?
 

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99 Problems...
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had a friend with a '91 with 100k+ miles and tried to run mobil 1 5w30 and it leaked he switched to 10w30 mobil 1 and it seemed to run fine

O
 

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Your electrical friend
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It's a misconception Orion88. Synthetic and mineral oils of the same weight behave exactly the same, they have to in order to get the ratings they have, it just takes higher sustained temperatures to break down synthetic, hence why it's better than mineral. If you change the oil and you suddenly have an oil leak, it would have happened regardless what type of oil you put in. By the way, the cheapest place to get synthetic is Wal-Mart, 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 for $17, which breaks down to $3.40 per quart. And if they have it in stock, buy as much as you can afford to, they don't regularly stock it. Next cheapest I've seen is Havoline Synthetic at Advance Auto. And you can always switch back to mineral at any time. For more info on the myths, misconceptions and truths about synthetic oil please click on the following link, followed by clicking on the "Why Synthetics?" tab, and the tabs under that, "What is Synthetic oil?", "What's it do for me?", "Myth's about Synthetics", and "FAQ's"

http://www.prod.mobil1.com/index.jsp
 

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freakish poster
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What Toolapcfan said on all points. I started syn at 26K, now at 142K and absolutely no leaks or burning. None!
 

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toolapcfan said:
It's a misconception Onyxeros. Synthetic and mineral oils of the same weight behave exactly the same, they have to in order to get the ratings they have, it just takes higher sustained temperatures to break down synthetic, hence why it's better than mineral. If you change the oil and you suddenly have an oil leak, it would have happened regardless what type of oil you put in.

http://www.prod.mobil1.com/index.jsp
I am not sure what you are arguing against in terms of what I said. I said that he was tried synthetic and went to a heavier weight SYNTHETIC and the leak stopped.

I said nothing about dino vs syn. The orginal poster did.
 

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Your electrical friend
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Oops, sorry Onyxeros. I went back and addressed it to orion88. :)
 

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99 Problems...
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it's all good
there is different oil argument going on over on our SR20 board too

O
 

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I'm college majoring in Automotive Technology. Here's a little info on what I've learned about oils.

First of all, not all oils are created equal. You get what you pay for!

Nissan does recommend 5W30 for all around purposes in the SR20. However, in low climates (I think below 10deg F) they recommend not using 10W30. On the contrary, quality synthetics such as Mobil 1, tend not to thicken in cold weather like non synthetics do. I live in Cleveland, OH and run 10W30 in my '99 Sentra SE year around.

Also, running a quality filter like a K&N will allow for the cold oil to flow through the filter easier. Next, stick with what the factory service manual recommends. Nissan recommends 5W30 or 10W30 for our cars.

Sure that 15W50 Mobile 1 might seem appealing because its factory fill in the Viper, Mercedes AMGs, and Mustang Cobra. But those engines, were designed for it. They have beefier oil pumps and larger oil passages than our little 2.0L aluminum block engines.

Finally, synthetics CAN but not necessarilly will increase the chances of oil leaks or seepage. They tend to be "slipperier" and will find their way through small crevices over time. But if something leaks with synthetic, it will with conventional oil also, maybe just a little less. I had some seepage around my valve cover gasket near the camshaft ends when i was running 5W30 Penzoil (factory fill). It got no worse, or no better when I switched to 10W30 Mobil 1.

Sorry if I sounded like an idiot, but it's late and I spent the bulk of my day pulling an engine out of a Monte Carlo. The more I work on GM's, the more I'm glad I drive a Nissan. Hey, it took GM 9yrs to release a TSB and redesigned intake manifold gasket for the 3100 V6. And us Nissan guys complain about a piddly valve cover gasket that is absolutely rare to fail.
 

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Your electrical friend
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"On the contrary, quality synthetics such as Mobil 1, tend not to thicken in cold weather like non synthetics do."

I've observed this as well, which doesn't make sense, because 5W30 should be 5W30 regardless what type of oil it is, both should have the same pour characteristics. Otherwise they'd have to give it different numbers. IIRC 5W30 covers a larger range of temperatures than 10W30 does, isn't the first number the cold pour number and the second is the hot? 5W30 takes lower temperatures to thicken than 10W30, so you would want to use 5W30 in winter, not 10W30. And since both have the same hot pour nubmers of 30, neither would be any more beneficial for summer.
 
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