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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 97 Pathfinder so I can store my BMW M3 for winter. When I test drove no check engine light. I went to do the deal and had my wife drive the car home. I did not get to drive it until later that night. When I started it up - check engine light - one of the worst fears after just buying a car. I took it to AutoZone and - Bank 1, Sensor 2. I think the correct location is just behind the right front wheel – (I can see an O2 sensor in engine bay just behind headers (Sensor 1?) before cat converter and another under car behind front wheel (Sensor 2).)

I looked online and found a range from $40 to $140 for both sensor and just wires & sensor with universal plug. I called Nissan dealer and they said $183 for sensor, $125 for labor, and $90 to clear code and reprogram computer. Dealer said important to buy Nissan sensor by company J… They also said they recommend w/wire not the universal plug – which seems easier?

Is this reprogram computer really necessary? What are some thoughts on wiring vs. universal plug? Is there a preference like Denso or Bosch, or can I just buy a cheaper sensor?


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bought it used from a Ford dealer. Purchased as-is. I'm sure they will not help since ppwk. already signed.
 

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You should go back to the dealership and demand they fix it. I bought my 95 Pathfinder from a GM dealership and they have a 3 month 5000km warranty on all used vehicles they sell. If no, then mention they are no better than a joe blow used car dealership.

If they won't fix this problem for free then....

I wouldn't get it from the dealer, they ask too much for anything they sell.

I would consider replacing all the O2 sensors since at least one is going, the rest eventually will.

If you plan on replacing them yourself, get a 17mm or is it 21mm wrench, anyways if someone doesn't corrects me here, ask the parts person which size it is.

Also pick up a can of WD-40, or equivalent, and soak the sensor threads. You'll have to do this or you may end up stripping threads, something you really don't wanna do. If you do, you or someone will have to cut the section off, weld a piece of pipe with fitting nut in place.

Disconnect the wires. Work it out slowly back and forth (loosening and tightening) as you're taking the sensor out and continue adding WD to it till it's easy to twist off.

The new sensors should have anti-sieze on the new threads, don't wipe this off.

Have fun, don't worry bout getting cold as you'll more than likely do a little grunting and sweating taking them off. It's quite easy, just need strength and little patience coz they are tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What about wiring vs. universal plug? What are your thoughts on that? Also, what about the code clear/reprogramming the computer the dealer said was important? And do you have a preference on brand or quality?
 

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Auto zone should have these and they run less than 100 bucks generally. Some much cheaper. To remove and install you will need a special socket head that allows you to pull wire thru as the wire is attached to the sensor end. I would first try to clean the sensor as it may simply be corroded. You may get lucky. To be honest, any contract in the US can be broken within 3 days of signing. Normally all used cars have a limited warranty up to 90 days.
Replacing o2 sensors is an easy job if you can get them loose...the hardest part is getting to them.
 

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As far as "clean the sensor" - would I just spray WD-40 and maybe use an old toothbrush around the connection? What are your thoughts on the reprogramming the computer - advised by the dealer? And what about wiring vs. plug and cheap part vs. one that states I will get better gas mileage?
 

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What about wiring vs. universal plug? What are your thoughts on that? Also, what about the code clear/reprogramming the computer the dealer said was important? And do you have a preference on brand or quality?
The O2 sensors should fit as long as you mention year, make, model and engine size. Code clearing... I'd just disconnect the battery for a 5 minutes and reconnect it. After a while of driving while it relearns everything, it should be fine. Or, don't do anything about the battery and see what happens. This doesn't seem to be a big issue, as it's all about O2 sensors, not timing belt, valves or engine noise, for example.

Last time I changed my 95 Pathfinder O2 sensor, it was Bosch. So, either Bosch or NGK, I wouldn't go with other brands. NGK is Japanese so you know there's quality.
 

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You need to pull the O2 sensor to see if it's correded. Think of it as a spark plug without the eletrode. DO NOT SPRAY WD40 ON THE SENSOR END. WD40 is a pentrating oil and will do just that. O2 sensors will occasionally pick up corrosion that keep them from monitoring correctly. Most times not, but hell, it's worth the try. If the truck is running fine with the O2 sensor as is, there really is no hurry. This is more an emissions issues than a serious issue with the car. I have run for weeks with a bad O2 sensor and the check engine lite on. Didn't seem to make any differnce. That is not the case all the time but they are pretty touchy. As far as the reset, disconnect the battery for a few minutes. To reset your computer, this will happen once the sensor resets. Dealers will tell you anything to make a couple of bucks. A$$holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So replacing and disconnecting the battery for approx. 5 minutes should reset system and clear the code? What should I clean the business end of the sensor with, a clean/dry cloth?

What I think I will do is buy the sensor, keep the receipt, take out the sensor, clean the business end, reinstall, disconnect battery for 5 minutes, reconnect battery and start car to see if code clears. If not, replace sensor and try disconnecting/reconnecting battery to see if code clears.

NPath stated a 17 or 22 mm wrench to take out sensor, otherS say I need a special socket the wires can go through. Do I need this special socket?

IS THERE ANYONE IN INDIANAPOLIS THAT HAS THIS SOCKET I CAN BORROW - OR WILLING TO HELP ME DO THIS?
 

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The socket is only a few bucks and you can pick it up any any autozone, etc. It's a common tool and runs around 5 bucks. Once ya buy it, you'll alwasy have it. O2 sensors go bad constantly. As far as cleaning up the old one, I would try to scrape off any depsoits with a stiff bristle brush and then wipe clean. Fixed a few like that and they went on to run normal the lifetime of the vechicle.....happens abut 15% of the time.
 

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So replacing and disconnecting the battery for approx. 5 minutes should reset system and clear the code? What should I clean the business end of the sensor with, a clean/dry cloth?

What I think I will do is buy the sensor, keep the receipt, take out the sensor, clean the business end, reinstall, disconnect battery for 5 minutes, reconnect battery and start car to see if code clears. If not, replace sensor and try disconnecting/reconnecting battery to see if code clears.

NPath stated a 17 or 22 mm wrench to take out sensor, otherS say I need a special socket the wires can go through. Do I need this special socket?

IS THERE ANYONE IN INDIANAPOLIS THAT HAS THIS SOCKET I CAN BORROW - OR WILLING TO HELP ME DO THIS?
No, a clean clothe won't clean the sensor. Someone, a while back, I think said to use a torch and burn off the carbon. But doing it this way, you may burn the sensor, making it useless. Gotta do this slowly and learn how, I guess.

Yeah, you can get the socket if you like, but I happen to have the wrench kicking around. I like the wrench better coz you can see if it's being stripped or not. Whereas the socket, you don't know what's going on inside... loosening or stripping. But last resort are pliers, that's even harder as you'll need grip strength instead of just pulling strength.

It's really not hard, just follow the instructions I gave earlier and you'll be fine.
 

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Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts | 800-230-3030 if you are replacing your o2 sensors. I am from Canada and these were the cheapest I found. $120 a piece from the dealership. $50 each from Summit Racing. Search the NGK ones and make sure that you get the right sides. You can check NGKs website for the proper part numbers. I replaced the rears in my 1998 pathfinder and still have the fronts to do in the spring. The rear o2s were very easy to replace, and I did go out and buy the tool from a local store.
 

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if you haven't bought your O2's yet, check out RockAuto. I replaced both downstreams on my 97 Pathfinder with Denso sensors and it fixed all my codes. Priced at about $65 each. Dealerships are full of crap. If you do head there, DONT pay $90 to have them clear the codes. Head over to autozone and have them do it for free...
 

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When I advised the Nissan dealer I planned to do myself, they advised I would need to come in and have the computer reprogrammed/updated. I think all they do is clear the code, but he said after an O2 change, the software needs to be updated so it can work properly. What do you guys think?
 

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When I advised the Nissan dealer I planned to do myself, they advised I would need to come in and have the computer reprogrammed/updated. I think all they do is clear the code, but he said after an O2 change, the software needs to be updated so it can work properly. What do you guys think?
BS, if you want, take it to Autozone and they'll do it for free, someone said. I changed mine out myself before the SEL came on and no problems.
 

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I think all they do is clear the code, but he said after an O2 change, the software needs to be updated so it can work properly.
I'm thinking that really is mostly dealer BS from my findings. My mileage has went up slightly since i got mine replaced, but it's still not where it should be (13-14 town, 16-17hwy).

Personally, i'd think that $90 could go a HECK of a lot further in gas then it would save you MPG if you had them "flash" it...and thats if it even does anything for you.

BTW - no SEL after over 1000 miles with an autozone clear
 
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