Nissan Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so i searched around and got some pretty good information from this site about installing a new clutch kit. But i want more! I have a 98 Nissan Sentra with the GA16DE 1.6L Engine. And i just recently bought a LuK clutch kit from autozone. I've never put in something like this before and i need some help. I have a Haynes manual for the step by step but i want to know some stuff to look out for, some important tools i will need, and what supplies aka: tranny fluid, grease, that i will need. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

Now lets see what you guys know! ;)
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
download the FSM.
I will look for my previous comments...
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
FWD Sentra SX200 GA16DE clutch job. Ok here is my list and lessons learned.

1) You must have stands to support the car, both wheels must come off
2) Socket to remove axle nut and large breaker bar or gas pipe, this is over 150 ft lbs
3) Pry bar to pop the axles out, 15 inches or larger. (Long thinner screw driver if an Auto to push out second axle.)
4) Torque wrench(es).
5) Trans Oil for re-fill (Manual this is GL 4, NOT hypoid or GL 5, Redline MT90 preferred.
6) Jack to support transmission.
7) Watch out for hidden transmission bolt next to firewall
8) New Throw Out bearing clips,2, Nissan Part.
9) The pilot bearing in the Clutch kits IS NOT USED for GA16DE
10) The alignment tool doesn’t work well because of this.
11) I used long 4 inch bolts with heads cut off, slot cut in for flat blade screw driver to remove, to align and support the transmission.
12) Threads in Transmission are brittle and will strip out if you don’t have 3 or 4 turns before you start to tighten, be careful, I needed to purchase a few longer bolts after I striped the first turn or two.
13) Don’t use your good torque wrench for the axle nut at 150 ft lbs, buy a $10 pointer and scale type.

And don't forget to download the FSM....at Phatg20.net for free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks a lot man! greatly appreciate all this. But what is the pilot bearing? is that the same as the throwout bearing?
 

·
who needs clearcoat
Joined
·
239 Posts
No the pilot bearing came with your clutch kit its smaller than the throwout bearing. If you have access a impact wrench helps a ton. Some of the bolts are on pretty tight, I could never get the drain plug out of tranny. I just ended up draining it by taking out the axles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
oh ok. well im going to be using the tools a friend of mine has. His dad is a master tech at lexus of riverside. he's got a lot of nice tools. so we'll see. As for miscelaneous things i need to replace, do i have to buy a new gasket for the trans and what type of grease do i need for the throwout bearing?
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
No, there is no gasket between the trans and the engine.
You can replace axle seals, front input shaft seal i guess, and rear main since the trans is off.
If nothings leaking I suggest you don't bother, these aren't weak points on this car ( front crank seal is however)
TB is sealed.
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
BTW my drain plug on both cars came out fine, and both had not been touched since new till 10+ yrs old. Yes they are tight, Tapered Pipe thread....!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
awesome thanks a lot guys! will update you guys on the clutch install, im on spring break now but the dude that was gunna help me out with it wont be able to till about another week or so. But when it happens ill let you guys know. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
the haynes manual says to take out the exhaust pipe running below the engine when pulling the transmission out. is that necessary? does it make much of a difference? that was probably the most ominous part, i think, considering how rusted/degraded those bolts are. I can imagine having to grind them off and cussing the whole way to the hardware store as i try to find new bolts to replace them. please tell me it's not that hard to do the just if i just leave that pipe in.

also, why is it necessary to remove the right wheel too?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
the haynes manual says to take out the exhaust pipe running below the engine when pulling the transmission out. is that necessary? does it make much of a difference? that was probably the most ominous part, i think, considering how rusted/degraded those bolts are. I can imagine having to grind them off and cussing the whole way to the hardware store as i try to find new bolts to replace them. please tell me it's not that hard to do the just if i just leave that pipe in.

also, why is it necessary to remove the right wheel too?
you remove both wheels because the wheels are connected to the cv axles which are connected to the transmision wich you have to remove to get to the clutch because the clutch is connected to the flywheel....and the hip bone is connected to lols i just did my first clutch job on my b14 the only advice i can give you is if something is in the way remove it. i did mines in a shop with a lift and it took me from 9 till 5. so basically all day. gl
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
i didnt remove the exhaust.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
just wanna add my experience to this.

things i wish i had known even after i read through this thread:
disclaimer: i don't know how similar these measurements are between sentras, 200sx's and SE-Rs, nor how similar they are between years of B14s

-the axle nuts for my car were 32mm.
-the nut that holds the control arm in is a 22mm. My crescent wrench set only went up to 19mm for metric, so i had to take a dedicated trip to autozone just for that. mine were HELL to get off, but they DID come off. just douse them with some PB blaster.
-Don't think you're smarter than the haynes manual--you DO need a picklefork to pop the control arm out of the steering knuckle--$20 to rent at autozone.
-You should really get some locktight for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts (i replaced my flywheel too). you don't ever want those unscrewing on you while you're driving. the haynes manual recommends using it too.
-I can see why the haynes manual recommends removing the segment of exhaust pipe there. I didn't remove it, and i absolutely could NOT get my passenger-side axle out of the steering knuckle. Those who know what things look like down there will understand why, but it took me 2 hours to get the 3 bolts out of the rear engine&transmission mount, and another 2 hours to get those three bolts back in. Eff.
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
Humm...
I didn't remove the exhaust and I removed the strut bolts and left the control arm/ steering linkage alone.
removed the axles on both the GA16DE and SR20DE this way.

didn't use locktight on the flywheel bolts, never have.
Used a torque wrench!!!
I could list the cars I have done this without a problem but that would just prove how old I am.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Humm...
I didn't remove the exhaust and I removed the strut bolts and left the control arm/ steering linkage alone.
removed the axles on both the GA16DE and SR20DE this way.

didn't use locktight on the flywheel bolts, never have.
Used a torque wrench!!!
I could list the cars I have done this without a problem but that would just prove how old I am.:)
I used a torque wrench too, but locktighted it as well. i don't want to have to do this again in the near future if i don't have to.

how the heck did you get the axle out of the transmission if you didn't disconnect the control arm from the steering knuckle?? either way, that's how the haynes manual says to do it, so i did it.
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
how the heck did you get the axle out of the transmission if you didn't disconnect the control arm from the steering knuckle?? either way, that's how the haynes manual says to do it, so i did it.
Removed the two strut to knuckle bolts, then pull top out
and push down on control arm a bit and there is enough room.
pull axle out and away from the knuckle.
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
when you pull the top out the knuckle turns, this helps....
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top