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so i decided to drive my sentra yesterday and i encountered a problem. it drove fine but the temperature dosent wanna get hot! i mean if it sits there and idle then its fine temp guage goes up and the heat kicks in but when you drive then it cools down and the heat dissapears till i go woot and beat the piss out of it. i took it to a shop and they told me that there is NOTHING wrong with it but i doubt them WRONG!! need help i like my car but dont really want to be hard on it this winter.




thanks randy
 

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hell it could just be that the cooling system is working great and cant keep it warm enough. Try blocking off part of the radiator with cardboard. I had to do this with my stealth and I live in Texas. Doesnt get the cold weather most of yall get.
 

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2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
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I would check the thermostat. It may be stuck open.
I have the same issue takes 5 miles or more and doesn't get completely warm.
I Checked the radiator when just started the engine and its getting warm !!
Thermostat is definitely stuck open. 11 + yrs old !!
Controls nicely in the summer, but its stuck to far open in this cold weather.
I guess they are made to fail safe !!
 

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Same thing here. The upper hose also gets hot just pulling the car into the garage from the street, so I'm pretty sure it's stuck open.

Digging into it, I'm surprised what a biznitch changing the thermostat is. Finding the air bleed screws was somewhat of a pain, even using the FSM and a Haynes manual for reference (on my '94, they are located below the distributor and above the thermostat housing). I've done it twice with just RTV and had the antifreeze leak out, this time used a gasket with sealant and letting it set overnight. Hopefully you guys are having an easier time with this than I am. :confused:
 

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Well i took it apart and the thermostat was closed !!! used the grey RTV.
put new one in, now on the way to work it does get to full temp, it didn't before when cold out.
Frost on the car this morning, so about 32 F.
about 2-3 miles of 30 -45 mph, three stop signs, light traffic, temp gauge is off its peg but still below C
At 4 miles now above C, at first traffic light gets nearly to 1/4
at 6 miles just about 1/3 where it starts to stabilize.
Definite improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so how much for the thermostat? and is it a PITA? im no mechanic but i can so simple things. and how would you rate it from a scale from 1-10
 

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So third time's the charm for me. Filled it up with 50/50, no leaks, took it for a spin and all is good.

I can't say it was really a difficult repair, but it sure was a PITA. Getting to the thermostat is the hardest part. On mine, the hose had welded itself to the intake nozzle, which made maneuvering and cleaning things a lot more difficult. I probably did not get the old seal off completely and/or used too little RTV at first. Definitely not as easy as on my old '83 Celica (miss that car...) but it's not really hard. Be prepared to cuss Nissan engineers a lot, though... :mad:

The thermostat itself was not expensive. I got mine from Courtesy Nissan as part of their timing chain kit, but their site shows it as $18.24 by itself.
 

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so how much for the thermostat? and is it a PITA? im no mechanic but i can so simple things. and how would you rate it from a scale from 1-10
I answered this post once and I guess it got lost in the Aether !!!

I would rate it 2 /10 on hardness scale.

Hardest was breaking the existing sealant on the outlet free.
I searched the forums when I got stuck and after reading all the suggestions decided on using a rubber mallet.
Give the outlet a good whack, and its free !!!

I paid about $7 at an Autoparts store.
 

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Dont forget the grey RTV. $5
I didn't use a gasket, but you could if you wanted to.

I didn't drain the coolant, just put a bowl underneath to catch the coolant.
Lost about half a pint, don't forget mine is an SR20.
I undid the O2 sensor wire at the plug to get it out of the way, and un-clipped the closest fuse box and moved it a few inches back.
Spec on the outlet housing is very low, about 50 -60 INCH pounds, 4.5 ft pounds, so I did it up by hand. My everyday torque wrench doesnt go that low, and i couldn't be bothered to look for my inch pound torque wrench.
Don't over tighten, you can bend the housing ears, particularly if you use a gasket.
 

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i have this problem on my sentra now, after new thermostat -180 degrees, FULL FLUSH, new hoses and gaskets. My bet it is air in the cooling system. I am going to figure out how to get the air out. i heard just take off one of the heater hoses and it will "burp" it out

UPDATE: pull the heater hose off from its fitting and anit-freeze along with a "bubble" of air will come out. after i did this to my 91 sentra 1.6 the heater worked great the next time i started it. from what i heard from a customer rep at O'Reilly auto parts, air getting into heater with smaller cars is a big problem.

-even though its a good idea to change out cooling fluid, thermostat, and hoses, the REAL problem is AIR IN THE LINE!! My OLD thermostat was 170 F degrees, reading ONLY 65.7 degrees in Celsius. The OEM temperature is 180 degrees. I would recommend the OEM temp. If the 170degree thermostat did work, the fluid would have to heat up to only 170, not the OEM 180 degrees, meaning not as hot air. NEW thermostats PROBABLY DO NOT have the "air bleed" hole any more, so dont waste your time looking for one. I bought 2 and looked at another one and it did not have it. u may want to try the Duralast brand at Auto Zone, I may have seen one there. Just be sure to put the new one in the same way it came out. Any ?s PM me or email me. after the time i spent, I feel i know a lot more now.
 

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i have this problem on my sentra now, after new thermostat -180 degrees, FULL FLUSH, new hoses and gaskets. My bet it is air in the cooling system. I am going to figure out how to get the air out. i heard just take off one of the heater hoses and it will "burp" it out
I would think taking a hose off would just introduce more air into the system.

There are two air bleed screws on the GA16DE. On my '94, one is located immediately below the distributor and the other is above the thermostat and water pump. They both have 10mm heads. When filling the engine with coolant, you leave them open until coolant spills out of them. I imagine you'd open them and add coolant until air bubbles stopped coming out.
 

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Don't forget about the heater Core may be blocked on some of the cars with high mileage. I would check into that also. those are a real pain to get to. Flushing the system every year will prevent this.
 
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