[james.keaton]

This car wouldn't start after getting gas one day. I pulled up, filled up and then tried to start it to leave and nothing. It cranks, but won't start. I put a new timing chain guides tensioner etc on this car. New dist cap, button, and even tried a different distributor. I have also tried a diffrent coil. The car seems to crank slower than it should. Could this have something to do with my starter? The engine doesn't even really try to start when I crank it over. Also, if someone could scan me the pages for the timing chain install from a chilton or haynes manual so I can make sure I have it in time, and send it to [email protected]. Thanks. Also, where is the IAC located on this motor and could it cause the car not to start? Does the IAC have "AAC Valve" on it or is that another valve? If not the IAC what is that valve? Also could it be bad gas even though I just filled it up could that new gas cause it to not start so soon? Thanks and sorry for all of the questions. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[schoust]

Just download the manuel if you look it's here there free!

 

[EhBrah]

holy crap James you are persistent. You're going to re-check the timing belt install after all the work it is to get the cover and all ancillaries back on? .

1. Look at the cam sprocket (look for the dot inboard of the teeth)
2. Ditto for the crank sprocket
3. Clean the timing chain and look for the two links that are a different color than the rest. They might be polished gold, silver, blue etc.
3. Rotate the crank so it's straight up (the keyway is vertical) this is TDC of cylinder 1
4. Make sure the one colored link is installed on the crank where the dimple/mark is
5. Make sure the other colored link is installed on the cam sprocket where the other dimple/mark is (the cam will be straight up too)
6. Make sure the rotor (ignition) is pointing to #1 plug wire terminal. There really isn't any in between, it's either pointing towards there or will be 180 degrees out of time
7. When closing back up make sure you use a piece of wood to keep the chain from slipping down around the crank sprocket. The spacer goes between the chain where the tensioner is, this piece should place tension against the chain/guide. Make sure this is not too thick (from block side to timing cover side) otherwise you might not get it out once the timing cover is replaced, there are ribs inside that will cause interference.
8. Make sure you have spark
9. Try spraying some starting fluid to get it to at least kick over, if it does that then you're on the right track and just need to make sure everything else is plugged in/hooked up

 

[EhBrah]

Oh and there are 19 links between the two special colored links. The one I bought was wrong so I referenced the stock one and counted the number of links, then colored the right one on the replacement chain.

 

[james.keaton]

Thank you for all of your very useful info. Where were you when I started this process. Anyways, yes I am persistent, but I have checked a few other things first before ripping it all apart. My new questions are...

1) Can a neutral safety switch cause it not to start with the symptoms I have listed. Being it cranks but doesn't start.

2) My starter sounds like crap, I am about to get a new one in a min, but can a sluggish starter cause it not to start????

3) Is there anything else you recommend me checking before tearing it all apart again??

 

[EhBrah]

You don't have to open it up to check the cam/crank timing right now. Rotate the crank pulley, line up the timing mark on the timing cover with the second to last notch on the pulley (close enough). Now check the cam sprocket, it should be straight up (the pin), the mark/dimple on the cam sprocket should be approx. 90 degrees clockwise (approx. 3 o'clock) from the top (12 o'clock). Once you've verified this the ignition rotor should be pointing to the #1 post in the cap, basically should be pointing approx. towards your face when looking at it from the front of the car.

If you need pics I still have the old sprockets and chain and can take pics. I've actually been taking pics along the way but I'm just about done and haven't uploaded them yet. The neutral safety switch just cuts the starter circuit, you should make sure you have sufficient cranking speed, I wouldn't count on it starting if it is barely turning at all. Hard to describe 'slow cranking' cause it might very well be enough to start but it could be slow enough to barely turn. I would try jumping it if this is the case.

Make sure all the vacuum lines and plugs are in place, check all wires, coil wire, make sure plug wires are in correct order. Take your time and review your work from one place to the other. I had one missing bolt that I finally figured out it's location tonight, I missed one at the bottom side of the manifold even though I had them organized I dropped it somewhere along the way, probably during one the late late night sessions.

After you check it all, make sure you have spark. Then try to start, if it's a no go, try some starting fluid, if it starts to kick over briefly then you need to make sure you have fuel/fuel pressure.

 

[james.keaton]

Well here is the update...

After looking the engine over and just scrathing my head until it was raw I decided I would make sure it had compression. I never would have thought that the valves hit the pistons since the chain didn't break it just jumped time. Well I was wrong with a ratchet on the crankshaft bolt I was able to turn the motor over with little effort. I went to a junkyard Friday and got a head for $45 with cam. Also, I picked up a new headgasket, new intake gasket, new exhaust manifold gasket, etc. I tore the car apart Thursday and now I am almost finished putting it all back together. Only thing left is distributor, vacuum lines, and fuel lines. Oh and I picked up a starter while I was up there for $20. I wish I had the money to buy all new stuff, but I had my old one tested and the bearings were getting ready to go. I wish I had payed better attention to where all of the hoses went. I also went ahead and took the chain off and redid it. BTW, my new chain did have colored links, lol, they were on the other side of the chain. I feel pretty comfident that I could be a Nissan mechanic now, lol. Thanks again! Wish me luck, this thing better fire up, or it is getting a gasoline bath.

 

[james.keaton]

Ok here is an update...

I got a compression tester...
#1 - 140
#2 - 140
#3 - 110
#4 - 150

I know 110 is low, but it is surely enough to start the engine correct?? The motor is still just turning over, but not starting. Any help? It doesn't even seem like it wants to start. I am getting spark and fuel still. I have tried starting with the throttle open and closed. I did change the distributor and coil. I guess I am going to try new plugs. Anything else I should try and where is the item located? Thanks!

 

[SOBS]

Same Problem If I find a solution I'll give you a heads up.
http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/146348-1997-nissan-4x4-repair-log-timing.html

SOBS

 

[SOBS]

TRY THIS!!!

After praying about it ( I ran out of cuss words a long time ago ) it came to me----- I hooked the spark plug wires up in reverse order. #1 wire #4 plug... #3 wire #2 plug..... ect...... ! It fired up!!!!

If this works you owe God one, not me.

Good Luck and God bless!

SOBS

 

[maroonsentra]

This car wouldn't start after getting gas one day. I pulled up, filled up and then tried to start it to leave and nothing. It cranks, but won't start. I put a new timing chain guides tensioner etc on this car. New dist cap, button, and even tried a different distributor. I have also tried a diffrent coil. The car seems to crank slower than it should. Could this have something to do with my starter? The engine doesn't even really try to start when I crank it over. Also, if someone could scan me the pages for the timing chain install from a chilton or haynes manual so I can make sure I have it in time, and send it to [email protected]. Thanks. Also, where is the IAC located on this motor and could it cause the car not to start? Does the IAC have "AAC Valve" on it or is that another valve? If not the IAC what is that valve? Also could it be bad gas even though I just filled it up could that new gas cause it to not start so soon? Thanks and sorry for all of the questions. Any help would be appreciated.

Flooding is very common on this car and motor. Push the gas to the floor and keep cranking...my guess it will start. Happens when you start the car and move it a short distance and shut it off. Give that a shot.

Jason

 

[BoltBrain]

Same Problem

Can't get it started after replacing the guides/tensioner. I posted at lenght over here - http://www.nissanforums.com/stanza/90798-ka24e-timing-chain-install-instructions-2.html#post1239011

But in a nutshell I want to know if the woodruff keys on the two sprockets should be pointing STRAIGHT UP or 5 degrees to the RIGHT of STRAIGHT UP. Sounds silly, but the picture in the Haynes manual looks like they are slightly to the right. It would make a difference for sure!
BoltBrain

 

[BoltBrain]

Wait a Minute!

Think about your bicycle. The big sprocket turns once while the little sprocket turns ... well, more than once. And because of their respective sizes the same idea holds true of the crank and cam sprockets. This is dreadful to contemplate but could my timing be out ONE FULL REVOLUTION of the CAM SHAFT? Nobody knows here in the twilight zone, but it is morning and I'm gonna find out. So grip the edge of your chairs, boys and girls, and hang on for a WILD RIDE!

 

[BoltBrain]

No, I don't think so...

Took off the valve cover and cranked it over to top dead center by hand (from the crankshaft of course.) The piston arrived at TDC (checked the cylinder with a screwdriver) and all the freakin' valves are closed. So the camshaft is more or less lined up then:newbie:
Have a nice day
bolts
(or should i just say nuts?)

 

[BoltBrain]

Took off the carb???

Yup, and put it back on with the big hole pointing up and the four little holes pointing down. (that thin pancake looking thing) I think that's the way I took it off originally when I had to take off the intake. Does that make sense? Then I turned it over but it still won't start. Stubborn &@##! Do you know I've been working on this truck off and on for over a month as the parts arrive. And when it starts it will be something simple. Tomorrow I will take off the cover and mess with the timing again; on the bright side I learned more about engines that ever before. (just not enough to get them started)
Bolts