[DonJohnson]

I have a Nisan X Trail 2002 petrol to 2.5 L that has been having an intermittent starting problem. Generally I was able to get the car to start by turning the key to the on position then turn it off and turn it back on and it would start now it won’t start at all. the key and immobiliser was replaced several months ago I’ve just replaced the crank angle sensor and the cam angle sensor to no avail basically it turns over but won’t fire there appears to be no spark the fuel pump Pumps fuel I’ve checked numerous fuses I don’t know what else to do any suggestions appreciated.

 

[DonJohnson]

If I find the solution i will post answer for those who would appreciate it

 

[DonJohnson]

http://www.australianxtrail.com.au/files/ECMDiagnostics_ECMResetProcedure.pdf
Instructions which enables you to manually read codes without OBDII,
follow the instructions and yes it does work... but it took me 10 attempts

SAS light – Check Engine – Malfunction Indicator Lamp
Here's how to do it:
In car ECM Diagnostics/ECM Reset procedure:
1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.) 3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the MIL (SES) light flashes.
5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode.
You can look up the trouble codes in the ESM/FSM; there's a bunch of them.
In the ESM, refer to page EC-639. Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.
You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II.
When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).

So after doing the code check (3 sec, 5 pumps in 5 seconds, 7 second then 10 second accelerator press...) yes it actually does work... took me a few attempts etc I managed to retrieve the following codes and yes I’ve looked up the codes and their meanings.

P0113 - very Unusual? Mass Airflow Sensor or IAT Sensor – High Input Problem
P0223 - Unusual? Throttle Position Sensor/Switch 2 Circuit High Input
P0123 - Unusual? TPS “A” Circuit → High Input
P2135 - Unusual? TPS Sensor Voltage throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A/B voltage
P1610 - Suspect ECM Relay? NISSAN - Lock Mode
P1612 - Suspect ECM Relay? NISSAN - Chain of ECM-IMMU
P0340 - removed cable to test Camshaft position sensor A, bank 1 circuit malfunction
P0335 - removed cable to test Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Malfunction

camshaft and crankshaft sensors have been replaced

I'm prepared to try and replace the ignition relay and ecm relay to perhaps resolve the issue... also going to try cleaning earth points... just spent so much on this damn car already... $2000 dollar car and i'm in for $7000 already... would rather solve the issue than throw the money away... i hope this helps someone

Codes found in EC.PDF @ www.allcarmanuals.com/factory-service-manuals-123-Nissan-x-trail-t30.html
Nissan xtrail t30 2000-2007

 

[VStar650CL]

The fact that all those sensors are suddenly reading "high" strongly implies a problem with your engine or ECM grounds.

 

[rogoman]

Inspect the charging system. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

 

[DonJohnson]

Inspect the charging system. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

Thanks for the reply,I had to replace the alternator 2 months ago, new battery. Good charge, so if I can get it going again I’ll check the charge. Thanks for your suggestion and time!

 

[DonJohnson]

The fact that all those sensors are suddenly reading "high" strongly implies a problem with your engine or ECM grounds.

I’ll check the ecm grounds when I get home in a couple days, ecm behind glove box? Or on the left hand side in front of the passenger door?

 

[VStar650CL]

Even though the ECM is behind the glove box, all the grounds will be in the engine box and on the engine.

 

[rogoman]

Thanks for the reply,I had to replace the alternator 2 months ago, new battery. Good charge, so if I can get it going again I’ll check the charge. Thanks for your suggestion and time!

If your replacement alternator was an aftermarket unit, I'd seriously check the system out. When replacing electrical components such as alternators, starters and distributors, fuel injectors and sensors, always replace with new or reman'd Nissan OEM components; aftermarket components generally don't last long, don't work right and many times are DOA.

 

[DonJohnson]

If your replacement alternator was an aftermarket unit, I'd seriously check the system out. When replacing electrical components such as alternators, starters and distributors, fuel injectors and sensors, always replace with new or reman'd Nissan OEM components; aftermarket components generally don't last long, don't work right and many times are DOA.

IT was an original replacement

 

[tonyvancity]

is it possible the Replacement alternator is a pile of junk? i mean, new, used, oem , etc....sometimes you get a lemon . When i'm at my workplace, i borrow the mechanic's air line and gently blow compressed air onto and into the alternator. I see dust and stuff go flying out. I'm carefully to not go excessive with the compressed air. Done this 4-5 times on two vehicles i drive and have not had any alternator issues.

• if no compressed shop air line, when i'm at home and truck parked in my driveway, i plug in my shop vacuum, put the hose one ''reverse blow''...and direct the air at the alternator. I read it is safe to do so, as long as you dont go nuts on it.
• what i read that can damage the alternator is spraying it directly with a garden hose /soapy water. And never spray wd-40 on/inside of it....will ruin it. https://blog.firestonecompleteautocare.com/maintenance/signs-of-a-bad-alternator/

 

[DonJohnson]

So after letting it sit for a few days, I decided to unclip the ecm, and replug it in, and cleaned three fuses under the bonnet, eng cont 1,2 and 3, just cleaned the terminals, they had a tiny bit of carbon buildup, checked continuity between earth points on the engine, transmission and body, which was fine, gave it a crank and it started... go figure

 

[rogoman]

So after letting it sit for a few days, I decided to unclip the ecm, and replug it in, and cleaned three fuses under the bonnet, eng cont 1,2 and 3, just cleaned the terminals, they had a tiny bit of carbon buildup, checked continuity between earth points on the engine, transmission and body, which was fine, gave it a crank and it started... go figure

With the advent of electronic equipment being used more and more, it's become very important to maintain good electrical connections in late model vehicles. Gone are the old days if you had a corrosive connection somewhere, the vehicle would still run, maybe not good but still run. Good rule of thumb - don't wash your engine compartment with a water hose; stay away from large mud puddles; don't drive into a flooded area.

 

[DonJohnson]

so back to square one, it’s not starting again. Getting a code about ecm relay. If someone could tell me where it is I’ll try changing it out

 

[X-hale]

Oops, I thought I had a solution but then read your post about engine control 1,2,3 fuses. That was the problem with mine with the same symptoms.

 

[rogoman]

so back to square one, it’s not starting again. Getting a code about ecm relay. If someone could tell me where it is I’ll try changing it out

The ECM relay is located under the dash next to the ECM. The older x-trails had it on the driver's side. The newer x-trails have it on the passenger's side.

 

[DonJohnson]

Yeah passenger side in the footwell behind the cover on the left side in front of the door

Had the mechanic around twice, he reset the ecm and removed lock mode, key on 5 seconds 3 times with a second or two in off position. Next day won’t start, did it myself this afternoon but I had to depress the gas pedal cause it hesitated, turned off, turned it on and same thing it hesitated so I had to give it another press and I mean I really had to time it. Maybe the fuel ump filter needs replacing, but that doesn’t explain why it decides to go into lock mode . See attached image. And then coded to the my car. Nissan want around $500 just for the coding. And a ridiculous amount for a new ecm ecu, So I’d like to at least see if I can my hands on another ecm ecu second hand. One that’s known to work, unless there’s a bad connection to the key reader? Idk, but there isn’t any in my location... so if someone has one I’d be interested. But they have to be decoded from the old vehicle first...

 

[VStar650CL]

It certainly does sound like your ECM is losing its non-volatile memory. Most of those older ones used EEPROM and not flash for parameter storage, but it's possible your main ECM program is corrupt and it's writing over the data. The silicon in that era tended to have 20 year flash duration, and I've already seen two instances ('01 Altima and '02 Max) where "refreshing" the flash program cured misbehaviors. You might want to try having the ECM reprogrammed to refresh the flash before you trash it.

 

[DonJohnson]

Currently still going... idk. Think I’ll sell it before it starts doing its thing again. Last Nissan I’ll ever buy