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Proud owner of a GA16i
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508 Posts
I've swapped trannies on a GA16i. I'm not sure how much more different or harder/easier it is. It involved removing most of the air intake plastic stuff, the battery/battery tray, and like about a dozen bolts in various locations. 4 hrs. work for me, and I'm a beginner.
 

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Nissan Junkie
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917 Posts
it can be done realativly easy a shop enviroment will make it go a lot quicker but I pulled one from the wrecking yard in about 3-4 hours but it will take you a bit more cause you care about the other things around the tranny. My half shafts were the hardest to get undone the passenger side (long) one was a real bear but other than that all went well have a manual.
 

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269 Posts
To pull any front-wheel drive transmission, you have to unbolt the tranny from your engine block, which is not difficult. Next... you have to remove both half-shafts, and allow the transmission to drain. Removing the half-shafts usually involves removing the entire front-suspension. Since you want to remove the transmission, you will have to completely remove at least the driver's side suspension. Once you have done that, and have allowed the transmission to drain, unhook the shift-linkage and linkage support, unbolt the transmission mounts, disconnect all harnesses going to the transmission, including the speedometre, and pull the transmission forward. It should come off the flywheel, clutch plate, and pressure plate with a little tug. Then, simply pull it straight out of the vehicle through the wheel-well. If you are going to replace your transmission, I highly advise you also change the flywheel, clutch plate, and pressure plate while it is exposed... unless it has been done recently. Then, you simply do all of the steps backwards with the new transmission. Good luck... it is not a fun job.
 

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1,124 Posts
i can pull my se-r tranny in 45 minutes on the ground with hand tools, of course i dont have a battery tray in the way cus io relocated it but anyway , pretty much every tranny is like 6 bolts around the houseing with roughly 3 small ones holding onnnn lets say a dust sheald or a bracket for a engine mount, probebly have to drop a cross member if there is one.
lets seeee and um i dont even take the axels out i just pull them out of the hubs which can be easilly done buy unbolting the 2 strut bolts, big axel nut, and clip holding the brake hose to the strut.
after u disconnect those the axels pop out with a little effort weather it big a hammer and a lil tap on the end of the axel which u should put the bolt back on for as to not screw up the threads on the axel and maybe use some pb blaster

im not saying do it all in that order but u get the idea and then all it leaves is a big of prying of the tranny off and drop it down with a jack
 

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Proud owner of a GA16i
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508 Posts
As for prying the tranny off, I went with the support stud method. The top 2 bolts were the first I pulled out, and replaced by head bolts (take a hacksaw to the allen head, and viola, a support stud). After the other bolts come off, the tranny easily slides off with the help of the support studs. Keep the support studs in place, and sliding the tranny back on is just as easy.
 

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Sentra Specialist
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1,902 Posts
It is also possible to remove just the driver's side axle and starter, then unbolt the side cover and reseal the trans right in the car. I have done this many times. Take your time and clean everything perfectly before applying the gasket maker to both halves. I usually use a fine flat file to clean off all of the burrs on both halves of the cases. This helps insure a flat smooth mating surfaces.

One thing I really like about the B11's is that the lower ball joints unbolt easily with three 14mm bolts. You don't have to mess with separating the ball joints by hammering on the knuckle like you do on a B12 or B13. I've noticed that too many people still use pickle fork tools to separate the lower ball joints on B12 ans B13's. This is a big no-no. You will have torn ball joint boots if you do.
 

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Nissan Junkie
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917 Posts
If you do jerk the tranny you do not need to remove the suspension just the half shafts which will require you to seperate the ball joints but this is not a big deal i have done more clutch jobs then I care to remember and done a tranny on a 87 E16 sentra not more than 3 months ago, and you should leave the cross member in place. I recomend disconecting all the wirring and starter and most of the bolts that you can reach from the top then doing the same to the bottom and use a jack if on the ground or a tranny jack if on alift to remove the tranny just be safe they only weigh 100-150lbs but if it drops on you it can fuck you up pretty darn good or destroy your tranny and garage floor at least.
 

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thickle fork = pita, doesnt even seperate the ball joint fast. i heat the area with a torch and with a few wacks of a ball pean the ball joint pops right out
 
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