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Hi! Mano como estas? Mira creo que utilizan el adaptador de riel junto con el regulador universal Nismo. Por lo menos yo uso el arospeed que le montan a los Acura y me a bregao' super bien. Suerte!
 

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look in your FSM, it'll tell you in there in the Fuel Management section what the pressure, flow, and... something else.. should be at the regulator...
then if the numbers match the Nismo one, it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
It will fit in the rail but the return tube may need to be bent. My question is why you want to use one?


Ok my situation is that I have a b13 ga16de with an SR20de ECU reprogrammed by Jim Wolf and when I took the car to the dyno and the mixture was incredibly rich to the point that after 3700 rpms it never went over 11.00 and I have JWT cams and the car is loosing an incredible amount of horsepower do to the rich condition at open loop,I changed the Coolant sensor,Oxigen sensor, air flow meter and even the CAI then we decided to dyno another b13 with the same results I called JWT and they told me that I could use a nismo regulator to put the range were I wanted and I told them that there has to be a mistake in the programming and that I pay 500 dollars for this then they told me to buy a program that could get the data from my computer then send back to JWT to fix it to get it as close to 13 from 4000 RPMs on and it will cost me 100 extra dollars , Im not satisfied for what I got I have always support JWT but in this case I’m not satisfied and yes thanks GOD there are other ways to reprogram this ECUs because I just got the felling that I dump 500$
 

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first off... like the signature.. it is.

but from what i know of my pressure regulator, it's pressure is only changed by a: the pressure from the fuel pump, b: when the injectors spray, and c: by the vaccuum hose coming off of it. and vaccuum is only effected by engine bore size, vaccuum solenoids (the parts in the vaccuum sys controlled by the ecu), and if there's a leak.

but you're using a different ecu all together.
the nismo fuel regulator will be in line with your engine's train of thought.
you've got JWT cams, and a JWT sr20 ecu... i'm guessing because where you're going with all this is that you're getting more power out of an engine... no s#!^ huh? lol,and some of this might be no brainers but i don't know what you need to know.. well when you change stuff on your engine (like the ECU that controls and tunes everything) you have to go through and make sure everything is lined up. this is a guess, i don't know your engine, know the specs, or know the programming for the JWT sr20 ECU, but i'm thinking the GA16de's pressure regulator doesn't have the same output flow as the SR's... and if the programming was a little off.. then it's trying to get a fuel pressure regulator that's designed to work with one ECU, to work with a completely nother one that's made for performance. hence, why they told you to put on a Nismo regulator.. if you're running rich.. maybe lower flow? (which is wierd cuz it'd mean the slower engine uses more fuel, but it could also mean that the pressure isn't high enough for a faster engine, so you're getting less fuel.. but then it should be lean) *someone help me out here, i'm rambling* i gotta read up on fuel regulation again.. hell, it could be something with the vacuum solenoids that operate the pressure regulator not having the correct info coming from the ECU.. in fact though... i have to reread my vaccuum diagrams.. if i remember correctly mine's always under vaccuum, so there's no solenoid to adjust the pressure regulator... but i gotta look again. i know the pressure is constant for the most part. maybe two positions/ two pressures it switch from but those two can't change of it will act all wrong... these basically set up the correct pressure for the injectors so that when the injectors get their ECU signal (via the cams-to-CPS*crankpositionsensor*) they spray out the correct flow for amount, duration for amount, and damnit... something else.

but from what JWT told you... i'm thinking they're thinking that either you just need that performace pressure regulator and it'll be all good, or you need them to rewrite some of the programming, or the whole system isn't fully in tune yet cuz you need to change out some other components to get the correct amount of power for that ECU.

another thing to look into that you're going to have come up later on down the road.. if you're trying to get SR power from the GA, then you need to realize what exactly is being programmed into your ECU... what it is, how it reactes via sensors... what about this.... you say you're running rich... by running a reprogrammed SR ecu in a GA... think of all the things that haven't been modded or switched out yet, that the AIR/FUEL RATIO coming from the ECU will be restricted by.

your throttle body and airbox, your intake, your injectors, your fuel pump, fuel filter..... ...and after all of that... your combustion chamber. know what i mean? course this is why making a race car takes so much.. the parts are expensive and if you only put on one part of a system at a time it's like trying to drive a truck around that started out with stock tires and you're buying/installing the monster truck tires one at a time.

this is where some ppl mess up, and not saying you have cuz i don't even know the engine's full history, what all you've done... etc. ...but when you start changing the harmonics of an engine, you have to do the whole system as a whole unless you're willing to deal with stuff that's a little off.

....you put on highflow injectors w/o changing the rest... they won't have the fuel pump, the filter, the pressure regulator, the bigger combustion chamber, and the correct amount of air in the mixture to support them... same thing with anything else...

you drop cams in your engine to play with the AIR/FUEL... you need to play with all the other cooperating components on the car which you did by putting on a reprogrammed SR20 ECU... but now you need to tweak it out.

you need to line up the rest of the engine's train of thought. but don't forget, you keep shoving more and more fuel into the cumbustion chamber and you won't have enough room for air to mix with it. err.. i mean you'll be rich. *that's right right? rich means you've got too much fuel... ugh.. i need coffee...* looks right, gonna leave it..

check this out real quick..
MSD Rich/Lean Indicator - JEGS
something you'll need the more you play with your engine. but it's real primitive, just gives you a warning, it's not some $600 piece of software that'll explain in ultimately hard to understand bits of every piece of info your engine tells your ecu... but it lets you know right away that you're out of tune. If the oxygen level is high, a red light comes on to indicate a lean condition; a green light indicates low oxygen and a rich condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
first off... like the signature.. it is.

but from what i know of my pressure regulator, it's pressure is only changed by a: the pressure from the fuel pump, b: when the injectors spray, and c: by the vaccuum hose coming off of it. and vaccuum is only effected by engine bore size, vaccuum solenoids (the parts in the vaccuum sys controlled by the ecu), and if there's a leak.

but you're using a different ecu all together.
the nismo fuel regulator will be in line with your engine's train of thought.
you've got JWT cams, and a JWT sr20 ecu... i'm guessing because where you're going with all this is that you're getting more power out of an engine... no s#!^ huh? lol,and some of this might be no brainers but i don't know what you need to know.. well when you change stuff on your engine (like the ECU that controls and tunes everything) you have to go through and make sure everything is lined up. this is a guess, i don't know your engine, know the specs, or know the programming for the JWT sr20 ECU, but i'm thinking the GA16de's pressure regulator doesn't have the same output flow as the SR's... and if the programming was a little off.. then it's trying to get a fuel pressure regulator that's designed to work with one ECU, to work with a completely nother one that's made for performance. hence, why they told you to put on a Nismo regulator.. if you're running rich.. maybe lower flow? (which is wierd cuz it'd mean the slower engine uses more fuel, but it could also mean that the pressure isn't high enough for a faster engine, so you're getting less fuel.. but then it should be lean) *someone help me out here, i'm rambling* i gotta read up on fuel regulation again.. hell, it could be something with the vacuum solenoids that operate the pressure regulator not having the correct info coming from the ECU.. in fact though... i have to reread my vaccuum diagrams.. if i remember correctly mine's always under vaccuum, so there's no solenoid to adjust the pressure regulator... but i gotta look again. i know the pressure is constant for the most part. maybe two positions/ two pressures it switch from but those two can't change of it will act all wrong... these basically set up the correct pressure for the injectors so that when the injectors get their ECU signal (via the cams-to-CPS*crankpositionsensor*) they spray out the correct flow for amount, duration for amount, and damnit... something else.

but from what JWT told you... i'm thinking they're thinking that either you just need that performace pressure regulator and it'll be all good, or you need them to rewrite some of the programming, or the whole system isn't fully in tune yet cuz you need to change out some other components to get the correct amount of power for that ECU.

another thing to look into that you're going to have come up later on down the road.. if you're trying to get SR power from the GA, then you need to realize what exactly is being programmed into your ECU... what it is, how it reactes via sensors... what about this.... you say you're running rich... by running a reprogrammed SR ecu in a GA... think of all the things that haven't been modded or switched out yet, that the AIR/FUEL RATIO coming from the ECU will be restricted by.

your throttle body and airbox, your intake, your injectors, your fuel pump, fuel filter..... ...and after all of that... your combustion chamber. know what i mean? course this is why making a race car takes so much.. the parts are expensive and if you only put on one part of a system at a time it's like trying to drive a truck around that started out with stock tires and you're buying/installing the monster truck tires one at a time.

this is where some ppl mess up, and not saying you have cuz i don't even know the engine's full history, what all you've done... etc. ...but when you start changing the harmonics of an engine, you have to do the whole system as a whole unless you're willing to deal with stuff that's a little off.

....you put on highflow injectors w/o changing the rest... they won't have the fuel pump, the filter, the pressure regulator, the bigger combustion chamber, and the correct amount of air in the mixture to support them... same thing with anything else...

you drop cams in your engine to play with the AIR/FUEL... you need to play with all the other cooperating components on the car which you did by putting on a reprogrammed SR20 ECU... but now you need to tweak it out.

you need to line up the rest of the engine's train of thought. but don't forget, you keep shoving more and more fuel into the cumbustion chamber and you won't have enough room for air to mix with it. err.. i mean you'll be rich. *that's right right? rich means you've got too much fuel... ugh.. i need coffee...* looks right, gonna leave it..

check this out real quick..
MSD Rich/Lean Indicator - JEGS
something you'll need the more you play with your engine. but it's real primitive, just gives you a warning, it's not some $600 piece of software that'll explain in ultimately hard to understand bits of every piece of info your engine tells your ecu... but it lets you know right away that you're out of tune. If the oxygen level is high, a red light comes on to indicate a lean condition; a green light indicates low oxygen and a rich condition.

you can also lean the mixture with a regulator and thats what im looking we also using a wide band and by going 12.5 to 13 on the A/F mixture open throtle in an NA car with stock internals and 97 octane gas means beter combustion with ofcourse highter piston temperatures but I have a KOYO radiator and a mocal oil cooler to help with that.
 

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lol, seems to me like you know your car better.
you could teach me some stuff..

the mixtures and ecu rev codes are somethign i can't wait to learn if i ever get there.

what do you mean exactly when you speak of "only at 11" or 12,13,14... on the fuel..

sometimes i feel like i'm learning all this crap just to fill up my head... came so close to gettin to play with all that shi stuff on my 240, and now i'm back to square one...


tell me some about your air/fuel ratio...

FIRST OFF, the idea of droppin a reprogrammed performace ECU onto a similar sized, slower engine is magnificent. totally do-able but i start to think of all the incongruencies.. all the little defects in doing somethign like that.
unless like you, you switch the cams at the same time. but i mean more like how they did it... got all the sensors to work with it. you know what i mean?
 

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lol, seems to me like you know your car better.
you could teach me some stuff..

the mixtures and ecu rev codes are somethign i can't wait to learn if i ever get there.

what do you mean exactly when you speak of "only at 11" or 12,13,14... on the fuel..

sometimes i feel like i'm learning all this crap just to fill up my head... came so close to gettin to play with all that shi stuff on my 240, and now i'm back to square one...


tell me some about your air/fuel ratio...

FIRST OFF, the idea of droppin a reprogrammed performace ECU onto a similar sized, slower engine is magnificent. totally do-able but i start to think of all the incongruencies.. all the little defects in doing somethign like that.
unless like you, you switch the cams at the same time. but i mean more like how they did it... got all the sensors to work with it. you know what i mean?
Your theory about fuel pressure is not correct at all. The fuel pump is mechanical and the fuel pressure regulator simply regulates fuel pressure based on an orifice size and vacuum. The ECU cannot and does not control fuel pressure or the amount of pressure created by the fuel pump. All OEM Nissan ecu's are programmed to run and assume 3 bar of fuel pressure.

The Nismo AFPR is adjustable to richen or lean out the entire mixture. This can help you make more power but it is somewhat of a band aid. My first question is where and how you are taking wideband readings on your dyno setup enjoydride. If the Wideband sensor is not in the exhaust stream between the header and the cat then the readings you are getting are likely not completely accurate. Since you are at a point where you are wanting to squeeze out every ounce of HP then you need to take accurate readings. Anyone who jams a sensor in the muffler and calls it accurate is somewhat suspect in my book. I would also verify what sensor they are using and whether or not they allow people to dyno. on leaded gas using that same sensor, again that would mess up the accuracy of the sensor.

Lastly the JWT ECU is a great NA mod that will certainly make more HP over stock. So you are definately getting HP for your $, however JWT does not and will not release a program for the masses that is pushing the envelope in terms of FP on the lean side. They have to tune to that people do not blow their stuff up and with the # of idiots out there they must be on the conservative side if they are not tuning your car on their dyno. If you are looking to extract every last bit out of your setup I would try something you can tune yourself like the calum realtime ECU or using something like an SAFC to lean out the JWT program.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
a faulty air flow meter caused the problem my mistake and apololies to JWT now the fuel relation is around 12 from 4000 on to 7500 you guys make great ECUs THANKS still the nismo fuel regulator is a must for fine tuning.
 

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Your theory about fuel pressure is not correct at all. The fuel pump is mechanical and the fuel pressure regulator simply regulates fuel pressure based on an orifice size and vacuum. The ECU cannot and does not control fuel pressure or the amount of pressure created by the fuel pump. All OEM Nissan ecu's are programmed to run and assume 3 bar of fuel pressure.
which is why i said i could remember whether or not there was a solenoid attached to the vacuum line going to the Fuel Regulator...
as i said, most of what i've learned was from rebuilding an entire 240 engine bay, and if you know 240's the vacuum line for the Fuel Regulator comes off the same vacuum hoses attached to the Swirl Control Valve Solenoid, and the EGR Control Valve Solenoid.

that actually just came to me.. so that's where i was getting confused.

sorry, just the ramblings of someone who's teaching himself.

thanx for the bit of info that all Fuel Reg's don't have solenoids controlled by the ECU.

and i do believe i put down flow and pressure.. the other was velocity (caused by the orifice size)

:)
 

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the idea of putting air into your fuel before it gets to the injector and then the chamber is cool...
but like he said.. i can see how it's just a bandaid.
but again, it's a good fine tuner as your Intake steadily gains composits on it.
 
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