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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been driving for a while with an MIL warning... haven't had time to figure out the problem but now I'm attempting to solve it.

It's a DTC 32... EGR system.

I took the long way to diagnose the problem... i figgured that out afterwards...

-Checked the canister, working fine
-Checked the EGR for lifting, it wasn't.
-Took out the EGR, cleaned it out, it seems to work fine
-Put EGR valve back in, unhooked vacuum hose, no vacuum signal (ever)
-Traced vacuum hose back to EGR solonoid, no vacuum coming from there either
-Took out solonoid, tested. Works fine.
-Looked at EGR temperature sensor (I don't know why I did this because of course that's not the problem). Resistance is fine.
-Finally decided to look at the signal from the ECU to the EGR solonoid by reading the voltage at the harness with a VM. There is always a 14v signal no matter what... cold engine, warm engine, revving from 2000-4000, revving high.
-Rev the engine with the harness off and the EGR valve lifts fine. The signal from the ECU looks screwed.

Anyone know what would cause the ECU to continually send a signal to the solonoid, preventing the EGR valve from opening at all?

Thanks :)


Hang out wit yo Wang out!
546 Posts
I am having a similar problem, only my EGR valve is supposedly stuck open. I have also reset my CE light, and it stays on.

If any of you has installed indiglo's, you have access to all those bulbs when you take your cluster out. Just remove the bulb that's behind the CE sticker. That's what I did with my annoying ass sealt belt is not on light.

Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: EGR Problem

Yah I checked the vacuum line.

I reset the ECU codes and it went away (maybe cleaning the EGR worked?) but now I'm getting the annoying Rear O2 sensor code that I get every half year or so. I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get a new O2 sensor.

I HATE emission controls damnit


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