New Guy Needs Help

304 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by NisAlt2.4, 16 d ago

NisAlt2.4

Discussion Starter · 19 d ago

Hi to all. New here and hoping to get help. I have a 1997 Nissan Altima GXE 2.4 and can't see the timing pointer to set the timing. I understand there's a procedure to go through in order to get it into timing mode but without knowing where to set it I'm at a loss. Please help.

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rogoman

· #2 · 18 d ago

Here's a procedure for setting up the distributor timing on a DOHC motor:

Fully warm up the engine. Shut engine off. Disconnect the TPS harness connector; it's located on the passenger's side of the engine just above the throttle assembly. Attach timing light to #1 plug wire. Start engine; the OEM timing should be 20 degrees BTDC. There are two bolts that attach the distributor to the block; one's on top and the other one is on the side. Loosen both bolts and turn the distributor slowly while watching the timing marks on the pulley with the timing light. Stop the engine. Reconnect the TPS harness connector. Start engine. That's all there's to it.

The KA motor firing order is: 1-3-4-2. This is at the distributor cap in a counter clockwise direction.

Here's what the timing marks are on the pulley:

-5 0 5 10 15 20
| | | | | |

Zero mark should be painted red.

Check the idle speed. It should read 650 RPM; If not, adjust the idle screw until you get 650 RPM. The idle screw is located on the passenger's side of the engine near the firewall below the intake manifold. Stop the engine. Reconnect the TPS harness connector. Start engine. The idle speed should now be 700 RPM. That's all there's to it.

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NisAlt2.4

Discussion Starter · #3 · 18 d ago

rogoman said:
Here's a procedure for setting up the distributor timing on a DOHC motor:

Fully warm up the engine. Shut engine off. Disconnect the TPS harness connector; it's located on the passenger's side of the engine just above the throttle assembly. Attach timing light to #1 plug wire. Start engine; the OEM timing should be 20 degrees BTDC. There are two bolts that attach the distributor to the block; one's on top and the other one is on the side. Loosen both bolts and turn the distributor slowly while watching the timing marks on the pulley with the timing light. Stop the engine. Reconnect the TPS harness connector. Start engine. That's all there's to it.

The KA motor firing order is: 1-3-4-2. This is at the distributor cap in a counter clockwise direction.

Here's what the timing marks are on the pulley:

-5 0 5 10 15 20
| | | | | |

Zero mark should be painted red.

Check the idle speed. It should read 650 RPM; If not, adjust the idle screw until you get 650 RPM. The idle screw is located on the passenger's side of the engine near the firewall below the intake manifold. Stop the engine. Reconnect the TPS harness connector. Start engine. The idle speed should now be 700 RPM. That's all there's to it.
View attachment 10744

Thanks rogoman! That's exactly what I'm looking for. I think my problem is I didn't shut it off before reconnecting the TPS. Something about the ECM being in Tune Mode? Also I cannot see a timing pointer on the motor. I see the pulley and the marks on it but no pointer. According to the attached diagram it should be at about the 1 o'clock position? Could it be at the 12 o'clock postion and I just can't see it? Is it actually a pin? I've seen some that have a raised inverted triangle cast into the block. I'm about to get my borescope out. It's running very rough right now and it was running smooth after I set the idle and kinda guessed at the timing. But after a while running and getting hot it started to run bad. Trying to Relearn maybe?

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NisAlt2.4

Discussion Starter · #4 · 18 d ago

I've managed to set the timing @ 20⁰ BTDC and the Idle is at 850 RPM's. I connected my Launch Millennium 90 to it and ran real time scans showing the above settings and no DTC's. It seems to run okay until the A/C is involved. Then it idles rough and kinda "hunts" for the correct idle. That's the reason I set the Idle at 850 instead of 750. I'm now wondering if I should go higher. I also ordered a bottle of the BG 44K and will run a tank of premium fuel through it. I'm wondering what else I can check. I cleaned the TB and the MAF Sensor and installed a new Air Filter as well as cleaned and unstuck the EGR Valve and replaced the EGR Vacuum Modulator. Any ideas?

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rogoman

· #5 · 18 d ago

NisAlt2.4 said:
I've managed to set the timing @ 20⁰ BTDC and the Idle is at 850 RPM's. I connected my Launch Millennium 90 to it and ran real time scans showing the above settings and no DTC's. It seems to run okay until the A/C is involved. Then it idles rough and kinda "hunts" for the correct idle. That's the reason I set the Idle at 850 instead of 750. I'm now wondering if I should go higher. I also ordered a bottle of the BG 44K and will run a tank of premium fuel through it. I'm wondering what else I can check. I cleaned the TB and the MAF Sensor and installed a new Air Filter as well as cleaned and unstuck the EGR Valve and replaced the EGR Vacuum Modulator. Any ideas?

Several things that could cause misfires:

First thing to check is your engine ground. With the car running, put a voltmeter on the lowest scale and measure from the block to the negative battery post. It should read no more than 50 millivolts (0.05V).
What brand of spark plugs are you using? You should be using OEM NGK plugs; other brands such as Champion or Bosch many times cause driveability problems in Nissan engines.
The cam position sensor may be marginal; it's located inside the distributor. Inspect the inside for any presence of oil. If there is oil, then the seal is worn.
Incorrect fuel pressure. Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. The readings at idle should be as follows:

with vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator: 34 psi.
with vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator: 43 psi.

* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg. If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.

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NisAlt2.4

Discussion Starter · #6 · 17 d ago

rogoman said:
Several things that could cause misfires:

First thing to check is your engine ground. With the car running, put a voltmeter on the lowest scale and measure from the block to the negative battery post. It should read no more than 50 millivolts (0.05V).

What brand of spark plugs are you using? You should be using OEM NGK plugs; other brands such as Champion or Bosch many times cause driveability problems in Nissan engines.

The cam position sensor may be marginal; it's located inside the distributor. Inspect the inside for any presence of oil. If there is oil, then the seal is worn.

Incorrect fuel pressure. Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. The readings at idle should be as follows:

with vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator: 34 psi.

with vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator: 43 psi.

* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg. If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.

Well I'm working on it. I've found it has Autolite spark plugs so I'm getting some NGK'S. The vacuum is good and I can't find any leaks in the TB Plenum Bellows or anywhere else, and I don't find any intake leaks using spray. What I have found that is confusing to me is when I set the base timing @ 20⁰ BTDC then shut it off, plug the TPS back in and restart it the timing goes to 15-16⁰. Is it normal for the ECM to retard the timing at idle? I've verified this two separate ways, with the timing light and my Launch Millennium diagnostic tool running live graphs and readings.

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NisAlt2.4

Discussion Starter · #7 · 17 d ago

Okay, plugs changed. #4 black, 1-3 look white with #2 probably closest to looking the best. Continuity to block is good. Fuel pressure between fuel filter and fuel rail is 46 lbs with key on, and 36 lbs running. The center wire on the MAF reads exact voltage and increases with throttle. I'm at a loss now as to why it stumbles leaving a stop.

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rogoman

· #8 · 16 d ago

NisAlt2.4 said:
Okay, plugs changed. #4 black, 1-3 look white with #2 probably closest to looking the best. Continuity to block is good. Fuel pressure between fuel filter and fuel rail is 46 lbs with key on, and 36 lbs running. The center wire on the MAF reads exact voltage and increases with throttle. I'm at a loss now as to why it stumbles leaving a stop.

View attachment 10759

After you install the new NGK's, run the car for about a week, then pull the plugs and see if the plugs are looking clean. If #4 plug is starting to foul, then the fuel injector is probably dirty. The BG 44K cleaner may help; if not, all the injectors should probably be replaced.

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NisAlt2.4

Discussion Starter · #9 · 16 d ago

rogoman said:
After you install the new NGK's, run the car for about a week, then pull the plugs and see if the plugs are looking clean. If #4 plug is starting to foul, then the fuel injector is probably dirty. The BG 44K cleaner may help; if not, all the injectors should probably be replaced.

Sounds good, I'll do that. At this point I'm at a complete loss on what else I can do.

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Jacky Samson

· #10 · 16 d ago

NisAlt2.4 said:
Hi to all. New here and hoping to get help. I have a 1997 Nissan Altima GXE 2.4 and can't see the timing pointer to set the timing. I understand there's a procedure to go through in order to get it into timing mode but without knowing where to set it I'm at a loss. Please help.

Thanks for the thread. Faced a similar problem recently but couldn't fix it unfortunately.

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NisAlt2.4

Discussion Starter · #11 · 16 d ago

Jacky Samson said:
Thanks for the thread. Faced a similar problem recently but couldn't fix it unfortunately.

Well mine keeps on giving. Test drive gave a #4 cylinder misfire after the new plugs. Pulled #4 plug and it didn't smell of gas so that makes me worry. Pulled #3 to compare and it smelled of gas. Went and bought new cap and rotor and when I got home discovered they were wrong. Idiots. So cleaned up the old ones even better this time and verified there's spark on the plug wire with my timing light. Now I'm hoping all this isn't including a failed fuel injector!

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