[Nissanman7166]

Well well, Got some more interesting problems I'm sure your all tired of reading about! LOL

Some of you may know that I just replaced my clutch about 400 miles ago. Since it being replaced I havent been hard on it... not tried burnouts or nothin cuz I heard something about a breakin period and to be easy on it.
Was drivin today and was in third gear and gave it some more gas to go faster. . . the rpm's went up but the truck only accelerated really slow. Kinda knew at that moment the darn thing was slipping so just to be sure, when I came to a stop I tried to release the clutch fast in first gear to see if it grab enough to squeal tires but it just slips and accelerates the truck really slow.

Is it possible that the clutch pedal isnt adjusted right? I've heard theres supposed to be some free travel in the pedal and mine has none. Its just tight when I go to push it in.

I read somewhere about a relief valve and if there's no free play it just keeps pumping up and is the same as if riding with your foot on the clutch. and that it'll cause it to slip. Do you think this could be my problem? Or did the guy who put it in screw something up???

:wtf:

 

[zanegrey]

when u replaced the clutch did you change the pressure plate as well?

did you resurface the flywheel ?

 

[Nissanman7166]

new pressure plate, however the guy doing it said the flywheel looked fine and didnt need resurfacing or replacing

 

[zanegrey]

lay down under truck while haveing some on pmp the clutch pedal ..

look at the slave cylinder travel .

is it pushing in all the way and then releasing all the way??

 

[SPEEDO]

did they de-glaze the flywheel?

 

[Nissanman7166]

I dont know what de-glazing the fly-wheel means. However I did follow your advice zanegrey and I noticed that for some reason the slave cylinder wasnt releasing all the way. I did some research and came across a website talking about pedal adjustment. It was saying something about 2g clutch pedal systems and how it needs freeplay when the pedal releases in order to activate a relief valve in the master cylinder or something--otherwise if the relief valve isnt activated upon each release of the clutch pedal it just pumps up and the pedal becomes tight.
I noticed it sounded alot like my problem cuz I had absolutely no freeplay and my pedal was tight, so I went under the dash and adjusted until there was freeplay. Now no more tight pedal, its actually rather soft now. guess there is some truth to the whole relief valve in the master cylinder. The clutch doesnt slip anymore as far as I can tell. I havent tried to do a burnout or anything and dont plan to but I am satisfied that its no longer slipping when I go to accelerate in 3rd.
If anyone is interested in the webpage I was looking at its RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info
Scroll down to where it says clutch adjustment and talks about the 2g pedal "pump up"
thanx guys,

Mike

 

[zanegrey]

regalzing is just removeing a little bit of the surface so as to let the clutch hit the bare metal ..


n e way ..you are back on the road with no slipage..

bravo...

 

[CMax03]

You are probably about to blow your slave or Master cylinder. Whenever you change the clutch most shops install new slave and masters unit because the new clutch assy pressure will blow the older worn parts. But you oughta slap the crap out of the mechanic who did the install he should have resurfaced your flywheel regardless! See if you can adjust your peedle to engage higher off the floor board!

 

[Nissanman7166]

I know

I have plenty of regrets about this whole clutch install. The first one being that I didnt do it myself.

The second one being that instead of taking it to a shop and having it done to where if something were screwed up, I could take it back and have them fix it or else... Instead I paid a friends dad to do it for 150 bucks less in his driveway.

And last but not least, I regret not getting an OEM clutch to replace the old one.

So now I guess I can only HOPE that he put it in right, The flywheel is in OK condition like he said it was and holds up, and that the aftermarket clutch thats in it now holds up. If it does fail, Lesson learned and money wasted. Will definitely invest in a few much needed tools to do the job myself next time around.

 

[zanegrey]

i have at one time or another ...

remove the rubber boot from the clutch fork access hole and with a good flash lite , a can of spray silicone lubricant ..

i spy the throw out bearing and douse it 2 or three times ..let it dry a little bit and then hit it again..

start truck and test it b4 you re apply boot..

treat the boot darefully as they can be dirty and delicate w/ age...

 

[snoopdogie187]

I think the clutch was probably slightly engaged at all times, but unless there was some real power to it, it was holding enough to work. That is just my thought though. If you wait until tomorrow I can look up how much free play it should have (too much and it won't fully engage either). I have the Hayne manual for the mid 80s to mid 90s pathfinders and hard bodies.

I do prefer to do all my own work (and that manual has been a life saver), and I know just what is wrong with everything, what everything is like and so on. Really besides oil changes (the cost of one is worth the cost of just getting rid of the oil to me) and the spark plugs (don't have the right tools for this job on the engine and I don't want to mess that put) I do everything. Just yesterday I finished putting a new brake master cylinder and wheel cylinder for a drum brake in the back. I now know which brakes had junk in the lines by them, and how they all look and which has the new part.