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My mom's 98 GXE is in dire need of a brake job. Typically how long does a job like this take? What tools are required? How much are OE brake parts usually?

Lastly, are there any good sites w/ pictures about brake installation?
 

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Go to your local nissan dealership and pick of a set of pads. I think they run about $75 for front and $75 for the back. Don't know how much is labor, but these brakes should last you a good 40k miles :)
 

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pay your rent!
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i think youll also need a 10mm and 14mm wrench and a c clamp for the fronts, and a hammer (to aid in removing the rotors).

(ashamed i have this memorized, shity little brakes, justo needs a brake upgrade!)
 

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make sure you put an old pad between the piston and the c clamp so you dont brake the piston. also get the rotors resurfaced. i dont care what ANYBODY says not resurfacing the rotors can just be a headache later. most auto parts can resurface them for you in a few minutes for a few bucks.
 

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O.K., I'll be "ANYBODY." Do NOT resurface your rotors unless they are warped (you feel pulsations through the pedal) or they are gouged. You don't want to take away any "meat" if you don't have to. I'm on my 4th brake job without any resurfacing yet.
 

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here we go

so be it. just another character whos too cheap to complete the job the right way. we are talking about brakes. for a couple of bucks to resurface the rotors you WILL increase the life of your new pads. Not to mention the fact that its just plain safer. But you go ahead and be anybody. Btw theres no point in resurfacing gouged rotors or warped ones. by the time you get them straight again you will have already passed the limit of how much they can be cut. So now like your comment they will be useless. They will heat up quicker, Kill new pads faster, and they might pulsate to boot. Do it right or dont do it at all........
 

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freakish poster
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Re: here we go

93det said:
But you go ahead and be anybody. Btw theres no point in resurfacing gouged rotors or warped ones.
Thank you for your permission to let me do what I want.:rolleyes:
In case you didn't know, rotors are turned
(that means resurfaced) when they are warped and/or when they are gouged--providing of course that they are within the wear limits after turning. We only replace them if they are unserviceable. If you've got the money to blow as you obviously do then by all means throw away your good rotors and buy new ones.
 

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really i dont care. i dont have time to go at it with a cyber-thug. do as you wish. i know my brakes are ALWAYS up to par. Ive already given my advise. Drop it e-thug
 

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you should always turn them, or at least have them roughed...I would get them turned no more than 2 times, then replace the rotors...the more mass there is in the rotor, the more heat it can absorb and displace..the better the brakes will perform.

btw..you should flush the fluid no less than once a year too..more if you track race...(actually after every event if you track.autox) its just good sense.its not wasting money to have the best braking system you can have.

you will need a jack, and stands if you wanna be safe...a 14mm, a 17mm, lug socket, torque wrench, large C clamp, and I belive they are 8 mm bolts to thread into the stock rotors to pop them off. And a can or 2 of brake cleaner...You will of course need new pads, and rotors, or turned at least. And as I recommended, new fluid and a bleeder kit, or a 10mm wrench and clear tubing and a bottle to bleed it into. ( you do not HAVE to bleed them just to change pads..but its a good idea). As for actually doing them.thats another posts entirely! Maybe you should buy a Haynes manual to start with :)
 
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