My front wheels have negative camber and are wearing the inside of my newer tires out. Everything is stock, the car stops straight, and it's smooth around corners. Feels a little unstable around corners with bumps, though.
I wonder if the front springs be the culprit? Maybe they've taken a "set" from old age.
I keep seeing those complete coil-over strut/spring kits for the Sentra on eBay. They all seem to lower the car by at least an inch. If I lower it, I won't get over the hump in my driveway, so I guess that's out.
My 97 gxe had 105K miles when i sold it and was same as your, wearing the inside and had negative camber on passenger side the worst.
Slotted the strut to return close to spec.
I agree with above, spring sag, worn bushings from age.
Its interesting the the SE-R same age and 110k miles doesn't seem to have the same problem (yet ?)
It is also worth noting the SE-R came with higher rate springs and a front anti roll bar the GXE didn't have
Yeah, that's probably it. How do you slot a strut? Not sure I get that.
Are camber bolts available for the sentra? I've seen camber bolts before, but they were stock like on my Subaru. I've never seen them advertised for retrofit to a non-camber strut before. Can't imagine just walking into Autozone to get one.
Well, if you have some money, you could hunt down some Tein pillowball mounts. They have camber control on them (what I'm running with my Basics). And I'm just guessing, but I would guess he means slotting where the strut bolts to the chassis, but I honestly don't know.
And the GLE had the front anti-roll bar as well, I believe (at least I think mine has one).
yes they are sold as an aftermarket part, but there is a problem with them. The thread diameter is smaller, so the clamping force will be less, and there have been reports of them slipping.
That's why I slotted the strut.
If you have a dremel this isn't to bad.
how far off is your camber ? how many degrees?
Are you aiming to get to 0 Degrees, or positive.
I will try and find you a link.
yes you can buy them from tire shops, autozone etc.
So if you want to do this jack the car up. put stands under the chassis at the jacking point on the Sills.
undo the strut bolts, remove the clip holding the brake line to the strut. get the brake line out of the bracket so you can move the hub, separate the strut and suspension leg.
you want the top of the suspension leg to move out, pivoting on the lower, same as the Subaru ( i had one) so grind away about 1/8 of an inch towards the inside of the car on the strut plates upper holes both sides.replace the bolts and check that slot is large enough to slide in the direction you want. note that this seems the wrong way !!!
Done? reassemble, torque the bolts to the correct value pulling the suspension forward till it hits the end of the slot.
I am not sure of the distance from the ball joint to the mid point between the bolts.
Say 6 inches ( measure this please when you are there) and the mid point moves 1/16
then the camber will change by 0.6 degrees.
If you need a whole degree you will need to slot just over 3/16th.
If you slot the bottom bolt hole then you can double the angle.
Camber Bolts will give you up to 1 degree per bolt.
I did about an 1/8th, pulled it all the way over and this fixed mine ( to about 0 degrees)
Oh before i forget, better check you wheel bearings, they seem to go out on the passenger side first. The amount of play on my SE-R would give a camber problem.
Thanks for the slotting directions. Not sure what degree. I can just see the negative camber and the results on the inside of the tires.
I'll use your directions if I go that way. I guess I'm more inclined to install new struts and springs at this point, if that'll fix the camber and lack of fundage doesn't keep me from the expensive parts.
I was wondering about wheel bearings. My Haynes won't even talk about the procedure. Are they simple press-fit races- bang em out and bang the new ones in with a race tool- or is it a pre-assembled hub?
i paid $35 to have it pressed out and pressed in. its a one piece bearing, you also have to buy 2 new seals. They crunched the brake dust shield, i tried to straighten it, but in the end cut it off, so just ask them to heave ho it !! That's what others have done here as well !!
check it by removing or pushing back the brake pads so the hub if free. any play means its shot.
I tried to buy the whole assembly in the wrecker yard, all three they had when they removed the brakes were worse than mine, so i think its an issue.
BTW, I am not sure i have the slot direction correct, will think about it some more, cant take a peak since that car is gone. you will see when you look at it, i think it should be towards outer side of the strut housing, wheel side. From what i remember its the side with less metal, if that makes sense when you look at it.
I just ordered the cam strut bolts you mentioned from rockauto.com. They were about $32. w/shippng. I got the +-1º, not their most radical cam bolts. Even if I get close, I'll be happy. I plan to do this myself using string, lasers, eye, and a little brain.
So here are my questions; Install top hole or bottom? And will it affect my toe setting? What's the proper camber setting for a 96 Sentra with A/C and Auto, 0?
i believe the ones that list +-2 degrees just give you two bolts instead of one !!!
If you do the math it doesn't matter whether you do the upper or lower.
I suggest you put it in and pull it all the way over. then if it moves or you work on the car after it aligned you can put it back in the same spot.
So if I put cam bolt in the bottom strut hole, I should get max adjustment, but more force on the bolt which could make it slip, right?
And will the camber adjustment affect the toe adjustment? I'm just wondering if I should attempt doing the alignment myself or bring it to a thief, uh, I mean mechanic. I usually doe toe adjustments myself, but this is a little more than I'm used to.
I have always done it in the upper, but it makes no difference.
The factory Subaru adjustment was in the upper.
yes the toe will change because you have moved the axis of rotation outwards.
this will change toe, more out, which will make insides wear as well.
I have had better luck doing it myself with a cheap'o toe adj bar than paying anyway.
Those xxxxxxx (opps edited out) have cost me more than one pair of front tires.
The issue of slip is related to the smaller bolt diameter. Torque it up to spec.
I expect they have made this thing from grade 8 steel so it can be done up tighter for its diameter, and will clamp more than expected.
Ian, Today I installed my camber bolts in the upper strut holes. The driver's side worked well and reduced the negative camber in that wheel, but the passenger side didn't do much. Not sure why, but the passenger side wasn't nearly as bad as the driver's side, so I consider the install a victory.
I spent the rest of the day aligning the front end. It came out great. I just hope the bolts don't slip. I'm not too worried as they fit and snugged up really well.
Rotate the camber bolt 180 degrees.
it is made so you can move the strut to steering / suspension leg maximum one way.
It may be impossible to turn through the positive to negative direction because the other bolt in the strut will stop the change in center line of the two strut bolts in a vertical direction, hope you understand that.
My legacy with the factory cam would not rotate around through that point, and was made to be on one "side". if you had it wrong you had to remove it and rotate and re-inset.