If you look at your tranny you will see the cable running to the shift fork and you will also see a adjuster. You do you adjusting there. Were in ny are you
Need some help with clutch adjustment
Hi everyone,
I have a problem with my clutch pedal, which grabs really low to the floor, and yet it has a lot of free play in the top part of the pedal- I would say good 2 inches. I looked in the FSM, but cant quite grasp what the procedure is. Can anyone explain it to me simpler, so I can do it? Also, how can I tell if I need a new clutch cable? The pedal seems pritty stiff... The car has 72000 miles, and as far as I could tell, this is NOT the original cable so...
Thanks for your help
Danny
I have a problem with my clutch pedal, which grabs really low to the floor, and yet it has a lot of free play in the top part of the pedal- I would say good 2 inches. I looked in the FSM, but cant quite grasp what the procedure is. Can anyone explain it to me simpler, so I can do it? Also, how can I tell if I need a new clutch cable? The pedal seems pritty stiff... The car has 72000 miles, and as far as I could tell, this is NOT the original cable so...
Thanks for your help
Danny
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Yeah, I know where the adjuster is at the trans, but what I need to know is, is which way should I turn the little nut? The FSM mentions another adjustment by the pedal itself. Which do you do first?
Oh, and Im in Queens, NY
Thanks again,
Danny
Oh, and Im in Queens, NY
Thanks again,
Danny
You have to shorten the cable so you loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster clock wise to screw towards the firewall.Dandbest said:Yeah, I know where the adjuster is at the trans, but what I need to know is, is which way should I turn the little nut? The FSM mentions another adjustment by the pedal itself. Which do you do first?
Oh, and Im in Queens, NY
Thanks again,
Danny
Hope that helps.
Good Luck.....
Ok, so how short does it need to be? Also, does shortening the cable make for a softer pedal feel and higher engagement? Thanks,IanH said:You have to shorten the cable so you loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster clock wise to screw towards the firewall.
Hope that helps.
Good Luck.....
Danny
All you are doing is lifting the pedal up from the floor. The feel will be the same with a higher engagement point.Dandbest said:Ok, so how short does it need to be? Also, does shortening the cable make for a softer pedal feel and higher engagement? Thanks,
Danny
I don't know what the FSM says is the correct adjustment but I suspect you will run out of adjustment. Others have reported stretched clutch cables.
If you adjust so you have around 0.25 to 0.15 of an inch of movement at the clutch operating arm you should be OK. I recommend you look in the FSM. It is posted on a sticky at the top of the B14 section here.
Good Luck ......
Yeah, I have the FSM downloaded, and am having a difficult time understanding the exact procedure... You'd think it would be simple for me, given I did a turbo upgrade and a bunch of other things on my WRX, but alas... Anyway, I'll play with it and see what happens. BTW, as per the FSM, if I undertand correctly, it says "pedal freeplay should be between .433-.591 inches" I was just unsure how to go about it, if anything by the pedal side had to be adjusted too. Thanks again.IanH said:All you are doing is lifting the pedal up from the floor. The feel will be the same with a higher engagement point.
I don't know what the FSM says is the correct adjustment but I suspect you will run out of adjustment. Others have reported stretched clutch cables.
If you adjust so you have around 0.25 to 0.15 of an inch of movement at the clutch operating arm you should be OK. I recommend you look in the FSM. It is posted on a sticky at the top of the B14 section here.
Good Luck ......
Danny
No I dont think you should try to adjust anything at the pedal side at this point. I would have to look to see what the Nissan adjustment is on the pedal side. Other cars have had a pedal hieght adjustment, but this is more fine tunning than your gross problem.Dandbest said:Yeah, I have the FSM downloaded, and am having a difficult time understanding the exact procedure... You'd think it would be simple for me, given I did a turbo upgrade and a bunch of other things on my WRX, but alas... Anyway, I'll play with it and see what happens. BTW, as per the FSM, if I undertand correctly, it says "pedal freeplay should be between .433-.591 inches" I was just unsure how to go about it, if anything by the pedal side had to be adjusted too. Thanks again.
Danny
Well just looked and the clutch cable adjustment at the clutch arm is 0.1 to 0.14 inches approx. The pedal height adjustment is to the switch, so I dont think you should touch it.
Goodluck......
Thanks, I'll play with it on Monday, my day off and I'll post the results.IanH said:No I dont think you should try to adjust anything at the pedal side at this point. I would have to look to see what the Nissan adjustment is on the pedal side. Other cars have had a pedal hieght adjustment, but this is more fine tunning than your gross problem.
Well just looked and the clutch cable adjustment at the clutch arm is 0.1 to 0.14 inches approx. The pedal height adjustment is to the switch, so I dont think you should touch it.
Goodluck......
Thanks again,
Danny
Ok, attempted to tighten up the cable (by turning clockwise) and there was like no more than two turns left until the cable finished. So either the cable is stretched or the clutch is gone (altough it doesnt slip). So, do you think I should change the cable, or is there a way to tell if the cable is stretched or if its a different problem?
Thanks
Danny
Thanks
Danny
I would change the cable. Some people have had luck "shimming" the cable, if your low on cash you could try that. Sounds like the clutch itself is fine if its not slipping. This transmission is a pita to remove (based on my experience with civics, eclipses, paseo). It has a "unique" style of engineering........
I think I'll throw a new cable in and see what happens....jer28 said:I would change the cable. Some people have had luck "shimming" the cable, if your low on cash you could try that. Sounds like the clutch itself is fine if its not slipping. This transmission is a pita to remove (based on my experience with civics, eclipses, paseo). It has a "unique" style of engineering........
Thanks for the help,
Danny
Ok, the saga continues, and I'm getting pretty annoyed with my POS. I haven't gotten arround to changing the clutch cable yet, and as of this morning I have another issue. When I step on the clutch pedal, it sticks to the floor and I have to "free it up" with my foot. After 10 minutes of doing so, it starts releasing, but reluctantly-- kind of like slowly. What would cause that? I need some help here guys,
Thanks,
Danny
Thanks,
Danny
the nissan cables do stretch a lot ive changed mine 6 times and it maybe time for the 7th . i have over 200k . you have to change the cable and then the whoel tihing will get back to normal,,
Hopefully its because you messed with the cable. try turning it back to where it was. if that doesnt do it, its pretty much a given that you have a bad clutch then. if your clutch doesnt release properly unfortunately theres a lot that could be wrong. heres my list:
warped clutch disc, warped pressure plate, misaligned clutch housing, clutch disc hub is binding on the trans input shaft, pilot bearing could be bad, throw out bearing could be too, and your clutch disc could be corroded and frozen to the flywheel and pressure plate. there's probably more
warped clutch disc, warped pressure plate, misaligned clutch housing, clutch disc hub is binding on the trans input shaft, pilot bearing could be bad, throw out bearing could be too, and your clutch disc could be corroded and frozen to the flywheel and pressure plate. there's probably more
Yummmy! I f'n hate this car!!Jaralaccs said:Hopefully its because you messed with the cable. try turning it back to where it was. if that doesnt do it, its pretty much a given that you have a bad clutch then. if your clutch doesnt release properly unfortunately theres a lot that could be wrong. heres my list:
warped clutch disc, warped pressure plate, misaligned clutch housing, clutch disc hub is binding on the trans input shaft, pilot bearing could be bad, throw out bearing could be too, and your clutch disc could be corroded and frozen to the flywheel and pressure plate. there's probably more
Thanks for the response, I'll go bang my head into the wall until the rage goes away and I can write something that makes sense/or put the bitch on fire...
Was the clutch pedal engagement like this when you brought the car? I ask because the adjustment might prevent the pedal return problem.Dandbest said:Ok, the saga continues, and I'm getting pretty annoyed with my POS. I haven't gotten arround to changing the clutch cable yet, and as of this morning I have another issue. When I step on the clutch pedal, it sticks to the floor and I have to "free it up" with my foot. After 10 minutes of doing so, it starts releasing, but reluctantly-- kind of like slowly. What would cause that? I need some help here guys,
Thanks,
Danny
Re: The pedal sticking to the floor.
Let’s assume the first possibility is a sticking clutch cable because the rest of the options are not pretty.
I believe this is most commonly a diaphragm (spring) problem or the release bearing sticking on the sliding sleeve. Either is a new clutch solution since you have to tear it down.
Good Luck…..
The clutch engagement was never like this. It was always a bit stiff, and it always grabbed really low to the floor. Ever since I "adjusted" it, which was no more than a complete turn +-, the clutch felt a little better. It was a tad softer, and grabbed just a bit higher than before. It worked just fine for less than a week (I adjusted it last Sunday). Now this morning this crap.... And we're expecting 15-18 inches of snow today, and I have to use the car as my other car is RWD, so I know Im not getting anywhere with that, so..... I guess I'm SOL. I guess the first chance I get I'll try a new cable, hopefully that solves it. If not, I dont know... I dont get it, anytime I buy a used car I always have nothing but problems... if its not one thing its another...ends up costing more than a payment on a new car...IanH said:Was the clutch pedal engagement like this when you brought the car? I ask because the adjustment might prevent the pedal return problem.
Re: The pedal sticking to the floor.
Let’s assume the first possibility is a sticking clutch cable because the rest of the options are not pretty.
I believe this is most commonly a diaphragm (spring) problem or the release bearing sticking on the sliding sleeve. Either is a new clutch solution since you have to tear it down.
Good Luck…..
Yes I know how you feel.Dandbest said:The clutch engagement was never like this. It was always a bit stiff, and it always grabbed really low to the floor. Ever since I "adjusted" it, which was no more than a complete turn +-, the clutch felt a little better. It was a tad softer, and grabbed just a bit higher than before. It worked just fine for less than a week (I adjusted it last Sunday). Now this morning this crap.... And we're expecting 15-18 inches of snow today, and I have to use the car as my other car is RWD, so I know Im not getting anywhere with that, so..... I guess I'm SOL. I guess the first chance I get I'll try a new cable, hopefully that solves it. If not, I dont know... I dont get it, anytime I buy a used car I always have nothing but problems... if its not one thing its another...ends up costing more than a payment on a new car...
With used cars I have brought from people I know its always much better. I have brought cars from people who didn't want to sell it to me because there were things wrong, but I was told about the problems and the cars always turned out good, unlike he ones from the paper etc.
I remember dad telling me people sell their cars when something is wrong that needs fixing and they get rid of the car before they have to pay for it. Makes sense, why fix it and sell it if you can sell it now for the same money.
My GXE is now at 72,000, and the clutch is weak, the cable makes noise, but the car still drives OK. Yes it all needs replacing
Good Luck, they are good cars, you just brought someones problem, but if the rest of the car is good Sentra's will run a long time without to much trouble.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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