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J

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Discussion Starter #1
i just put in some indiglo gauges and they work fine and all, but now my tach says im idling at like 2100 rpm. Im not, the gauge is off. How do i reset it?
 
S

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Discussion Starter #3
you have to change the needle back to how it was before you did anything
 

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hmmm... damn man, did you remove the needle? if so.. uhh, turn on your car to the "on " position, but dont ignite.. then all your needles should turn on, take the tach needle off again, and put it directly over the 0 RPM.. maybe thatll work. if not, then man, ur screwed
 

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here's what I think happened.

Assuming you took the needles off...when you set them back on you probably set it so the needle stops moving at 0. here's how it works. the little needle stopper makes the needle rest at "0" when the engine is at 0 rpms (stopped). however, if you take the rest out of there, you'll see that the needle will keep going down to about the 7 o'clock position. you need to take the needle and turn it down to the 7 o'clock position. same goes for the speedo needle.

also, being that you probably put them on wrong, I'm also assuming that you took them off wrong. If you just pulled them off like you pull a cap off a pen, YOU ARE WRONG.
For the future instrument cluster modifiers, I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH. YOU SHOULD NEVER PULL THE NEEDLES STRAIGHT OFF. If you pull them straight off, 9 out of 10 times, you will break the gauges beyond repair (a $75-300 mistake)

I recommend that you don't ever take the needles off, but if you must, you may as well do it right. Taking them off is simple if you know what to do, here's the method:
  • take the entire cluster out of the car (6 screws in all, unclip 3 harnesses and 1 harness for the "door open" buzzer)
  • take the cluster to a location where you can work without distractions and where you won't lose the small pieces.
  • Remove the clear plastic cover and black gauge bezel so the entire faces are exposed.
  • take out the black pin-like needle rests (the black pind that stop the needle at "0") by lifting up the edge of the face and uncliping it with a small needle-nose pliers (they are very easy to lose SO DON'T LOSE THEM)
  • let the needles fall as low as they can naturally go (without force) mark where it is pointing with a pencil. This is your calibration point.
  • start to twist the needle counterclockwise to loosen it up from the shaft. Now lightly pull on it AS YOU TURN until it finally comes off.
  • do the same for all the needles
to get them back on:
  • DON'T CONFUSE THE TACH AND SPEEDO NEEDLE
  • press them back onto the shaft so it's pointing to the 4 o'clock position
  • twist it counterclockwise, back to the calibration point
  • snap the needle back into the face
  • place the needle back onto "0"
there you go. this is the official way to remove the needles RIGHT. Please pass this info on.

oh, and also...I am not responsible if anyone breaks the gauges.
 
J

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Discussion Starter #6
well, first of all, i didnt take them off, and secondly Mike Young already helped me fix it simply by turning the needle backwards the ammount it was off. So i no longer need help. Although, the needles like to stick once in a while, which i guess is because the gauges might occasionally rub the base of the needle a bit... hasnt been a problem though..
 

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JeffB200sx said:
well, first of all, i didnt take them off, and secondly Mike Young already helped me fix it simply by turning the needle backwards the ammount it was off. So i no longer need help. Although, the needles like to stick once in a while, which i guess is because the gauges might occasionally rub the base of the needle a bit... hasnt been a problem though..
Oh, ok them. :D
 
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