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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace the driver's side CV joints on my 1995 200SX SER. Can anyone outline the procedure for removing the axle assembly? I am aware that I will need a ball joint seperator to remove the spindle from the ball joint, but will I need any special pullers to remove the axle? Are there any press-fit parts that I need to be concerned with?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 

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freakish poster
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You won't need a BJ separater. A good smack of the hammer on the female part (whatever you want to call it) of the BJ and it will fall right out. Remove that hub nut (30mm ???)Swing that hub assembly out of the way, tie it with wire so it won't swing back and interfere with your work, pry axle from trans with a big-ass screw driver, etc. (GENTLE!! You are dealing with an aluminum case). Reverse you just align splines, tap it into the trans (but don't hit the boot with your hammer) until the circlip is engaged.
Good times...
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Centurion,

Thanks for the quick reply! So, all I need to do is pry it from the transmission case? Is there a collar or something like that on the axle to pry against?

When you say to swing the hub assembly out of the way, I assume that you mean that it will remain attached to the strut assembly. Will there be any need to have something to compress the strut for reassembly? Floor jack?

Thanks for the help!
 

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freakish poster
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Strut? You don't touch that and it doesn't apply here. I just meant to wire the hub assy out of your way for conviencence's sake, it is not necessary. As far as prying, just use common sense when dealing with aluminum and you'll be all right and it should snap right out. Oh forgot to add ...the hub nut might be almost impossible to remove witnout an impact wrench. I don't know but they are on real tight and rusty. Could be wrong as I've never done it by hand.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry. I guess I need to have it in front of me to visualize everything. It will probably become clear when I tear into it. I suppose when the car is jacked up the strut/spring is unloaded so there is no need to compress anything. I was going by my experience dealing with coil spring suspensions, where you need a spring compressor.

I have an impact wrench, but I'm not sure how large my metric sockets go. Does anyone know offhand what size that nut is, so I can make sure that I have the appropriate socket on hand? Sounds like a little penetrating oil might help to free it up.

Centurion, you sound like you have done a few of these. My right side CV boot is showing some dry-rot. Probably won't be long before it splits like the other side. I would like to just replace the boot on this side and repack it with grease. I assume I will need a hyd press to disassemble the axle/CV assembly. Have you ever done this? Would I be better off to just replace the whole assembly like on the left side? The car is just about to turn 100K - mostly highway miles.

Thanks again!
 

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freakish poster
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Nope, you don't need any special tools to break apart the CV joint. Grasp the shaft and strike the edge of the joint and it should separate itself. However, you must be scrupulously clean when you clean and re-grease them. Also, they use different grease for the inner or outer joint---don't ask me why. It might be more cost effective (and easier) to wait until the boot splits and then just replace the shaft itself. (But don't wait for the boot to split open if you want to repace only the boot because once the joint is contaminated with dirt, forget it.)
 

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bitter old man
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Actually, unbolting the top of the strut from the strut tower will allow the hub to move farther than otherwise. On B13 Sentras, that's the only way the outer end of the axle will come free of the hub without total disassembly. This prevents you from having to pop the ball joint. Also, strut suspensions have the spring and shock as a unit. No compressor needed.

Here's a tip: before you begin work, take some axle grease and dump it into a little container, then put the container into the feezer. The grease becomes so viscous that the circlip will hardly move when you go to reinsert the axle. If that circlip isn't centered on the shaft, no amount of pounding will get the axle into the transmission.
 

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FYI

The socket size on the front should be 34mm or 36mm..i forget ..If you have a local Auto Zone you can rent one...They have both...Dont even try a cheap socket cause it will only crack...:D
 
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Discussion Starter #10
The socket size for a B13 SE-R is 32 mm.

A P10 G20 uses a 36 mm socket. Can be bought at NAPA, or possibly rent one at Pep Boys. If you're using an impact socket, one major brand is Performance Tool -- 36mm deep impact socket part # W154.
 
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