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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife and I bought a 2013 Nissan Sentra with about 112000 miles. Yes we bought used didn’t check the car with a mechanic. I know dumb!!! We put an after market extended warranty on it and now the transmission is shot. I have to put 1000 miles on it with out actually driving it. Any help???
 

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My wife and I bought a 2013 Nissan Sentra with about 112000 miles. Yes we bought used didn’t check the car with a mechanic. I know dumb!!! We put an after market extended warranty on it and now the transmission is shot. I have to put 1000 miles on it with out actually driving it. Any help???
Well hopefully you extended warranty will cover the CVT replacement. CVT replacement costs average around $4,000 and up from a Nissan dealership.
 

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Why do you need an additional 1K miles on it? By the way odometer tampering is against federal and state laws and often punishable by fines in the thousands of dollars and possible prison time. I'm not sure how true this is but I've been told that Nissan vehicles not only record the miles on the odometer but also in the ECU. Is there a clause in your extended warranty that states it isn't effective for the first 1K miles after purchase to cover the warranty company against people buying warranties to cover pre existing problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes the extended warranty will take affect after 30 days and 1000 miles. I don’t understand the car…my wife drove it from getting it inspected while getting on the interstate she said it was like it hung in a gear and wouldn’t go anymore or any faster should I say. So she drove it around on like back roads and didn’t have any problems. Took it to the Nissan place and diagnosed with being the transmission. I have since drove it a short distance and I don’t see a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
We purchased the car about 6 weeks ago with no issue. What would make the transmission be “bad”? We purchased the car about 30 miles away and have driven it all around but now the Nissan place says the transmission is bad…by hooking it to a computer.
 

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What would make the transmission be “bad”? We purchased the car about 30 miles away and have driven it all around but now the Nissan place says the transmission is bad…by hooking it to a computer.
Your 2013 Nissan Sentra had about 112000 miles on it and most likely never had a CVT fluid drain and fill. To enhance longevity, the CVT fluid should always be replaced every 30,000 mi. At this point try to obtain the fault codes that pertain to the CVT from your Nissan dealership that ran the scan. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. FYI, the codes are in the form of Pxxxx where xxxx is a numerc. Contrary to popular belief, sometime there are certain problems in the CVT that are fixable in a shop. Many Stealerships are not interested in fixing but rather replacing the CVT costing you big $$$$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So no codes on car per service that Nissan diagnosed…they went basically off what we told them lose of power and won’t shift Nissan has a “flow” chart that at 80,000 miles would suggest a simple fix like replace a valve or a valve body. Then after 84,000 miles it recommends replacing the transmission.
 

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So no codes on car per service that Nissan diagnosed…they went basically off what we told them lose of power and won’t shift Nissan has a “flow” chart that at 80,000 miles would suggest a simple fix like replace a valve or a valve body. Then after 84,000 miles it recommends replacing the transmission.
CVTs do not shift like a conventional A/T.

No DTCs were read? There are at least 78 possible DTCs that could be set; if you have a copy of the FSM for your car and look in TM.PDF section, you'll see what I mean. The StealerShip probably never did a DTC scan! Just told you that you needed to replace the CVT. Scam artists?

What were the actual symptoms of the car's behavior?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I haven’t drive the car… my wife drove it and she was getting on the interstate on the on ramp. She said it revved way up like it was trying to shift gears but it wouldn’t shift. So she pulled off on the shoulder. I’m gonna try and drive the car this weekend. I’ll drive the dog shit out of it. Go or blow.
 

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I haven’t drive the car… my wife drove it and she was getting on the interstate on the on ramp. She said it revved way up like it was trying to shift gears but it wouldn’t shift. So she pulled off on the shoulder. I’m gonna try and drive the car this weekend. I’ll drive the dog shit out of it. Go or blow.
With the CVTs, when you accelerate full throttle from a standing start, the RPMs will go up to around 4,000+ and stay there until you level off with the throttle; then the RPM should drop down to around 1,800 when running at a constant speed. Remember, a CVT does not shift like a standard style A/T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea I know a normal transmission revs up then shifts down. The cvt is constant till you reach speed. Why would we be able to drive it for just say 500 miles with no problem? Then all of a sudden we have a problem but it does fine on city streets just not the highway.
 

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We purchased the car about 6 weeks ago with no issue. What would make the transmission be “bad”? We purchased the car about 30 miles away and have driven it all around but now the Nissan place says the transmission is bad…by hooking it to a computer.
You need to get your own code reader. I like the BlueDriver I keep it plugged in all the time. If your car after 30 miles would not shift etc. I do not believe that you had no codes.
 

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I used to work for an agency back in the 90s where I was an independent inspector working with multiple insurance companies that sold "aftermarket" warranties. The 30-day/1000-mile clause is there to protect them from vehicles with pre-existing conditions, as earlier mentioned. Technically, your issue is not with the warranty company, but the seller. If you bought it from a private party, it's an "as-is" sale unless they made some kind of guarantee to you as part of the sale. If it was from a dealer, there may be some protections available to you in your state and you may want to see a lawyer, but I wouldn't hold my breath..
 

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Well. I can help you just a bit. As I'm not aware of any method that will allow reducing the milage without any traces. The board computer will show the error code on inspection anyway. I can recommend a device though that will freeze the odometer. Here, check this link . It should help to some extent
 
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