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Hi ppl I'm new here, and I plan to do an engine swap this weekend.

Don't ask me why did my GA16DE bearings start to make a noise and I wouldin't lie Engine got ±236 000km . HINT-heavy_oil_consumptiuon=no_oil=drive=engine_noise=no_more_good_bearings. :(

I did do a search on engine swap and got a lot of info on the GA16DE to SR20DE but nothing that I can use on a GA16DE to a GA16DE swap, I just want to know what must I replace while i'm busy doing the swap and what to look out for.

Thanks:(
 

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Hey fos160se, you too huh. We're currently experiencing the same thing.

My story goes like this:
My mom's 1995 B13 Sentra has 116,xxx mile on it but also experience a slight oil leak for 6 months. While the oil level would slowly drop it wasn't checked often. I should reiterate, this was my mom's car so I can't see her checking the oil daily and filling it up. That's something my dad and I would do for her if we remembered. But like my dad said, "it's your mothers car, let her worry about it." His theory behind car repair, fix it when it breaks...honestly, don't take his advice, I never do.
So, after driving around for 6 months or more with a slight oil leak that was cheap to fix the engine would run low, perhaps 1- 2 quarts/liters considering the car only takes 3.5 quarts or so. Eventually, the engine started to tick and got louder as the weeks went by. With the noise too bearable to drive anymore the little car went to the garage. Oil leak was fixed no problem. It took a week in the garage to find out that the 5 crankshaft bearings were gone. Although cheap to replace, $12 each major engine work is expensive. The mech. said he can't guarantee how long they will last since the old bearing were ground to pieces and scored the crankshaft. So, 2 weeks later and it's happening again. I checked at Nissan for a crankshaft, $1600 CAN. I can get a NisMo crank for $450 US or one from Courtesyparts.com for $610 US which is still cheaper when shipped to Canada and converted to CAN Funds than what the dealership wanted.
Simple advice, if you have an oil leak, fix it quick or it's going to cost you more in the long run.
So, tomorrow I'm going to see if Mobile 1 15w50 will make a difference as it's thicker. It probably won't so an engine swap, another GA16DE will be in order.

Sorry I can't offer you info on what to do, I guess were on this little venture together. I'll keep you posted on my progress if anything is to happen in the next few weeks. As for swapping for the same engine, I would say a Haynes manual would be adequate on what to do.

Greg
 

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I did a swap from a 92 model to a 93 model ga16de, the only problem i had was the trannys were different. pulled the old one out in 3 hours and put the new one in in 3 hours. make sure you dont start pulling it apart piece by piece, just disconnect wires, take off the three motor mounts. and make sure you have an engine lift around. also pulling the driveaxles out is a bitch!!!!
make sure not to rip the boot that covers them when trying to pry them out with a prybar. if you have any problems with the electrical systems not matching up trace the plug back through the wiring on both engines and most likely the wires came from the same source with a different plug. splice the old ones in.


I'm not a professional so take this advice at your own risk!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for all the advice so far, I'll be pulling the engine and gearbox out tonight, got the gearbox yesterday afternoon, and tomorow morning I'll go and get the engine, this afternoon I'll go and get some other stuff eg. engine oil, gearbox oil, PS23(oil treatment the best avalable here), oil filter, air filter, ngk spark plugs, degreaser, anti-freeze, inner and outer cv-boots and a LUK-Repco clutch kit.

almoust forgot the beer!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I's been done

We've been done with the engine and gearbox swap. It's not as bad as it seems to be.:p We've started removing the engine and gearbox at about 19H00 friday and had everything out at 0H15 Saterday morning, Saterday morning we left to get the engine(allredy got the gearbox on thursday) and were back at ± 10H45 and we wased the engine and gearbox and put in the new clutch kit and asemble the gearbox and engine . at about ± 20H00 the engine and gearbox were in the car with only the electrical system , air box and pluming , and cv's to be inserted (we did took a breake to watch rugby/football), Sunday morning we put the last bits together did an oil change an filters on the engine and gearbox. The engine did not start emidiatly but after the 2nd crank it fired up with a noise and went quiet as soon as the "beast" got oil preasure.

A few things we had to to do and swap between the engines were:
Distrubuters - difrend wires and plugs
Exhaust manifold - the one on the replacement engine were diffrent and couldin't fit the exhaust system
Altinators - the one on the replacement engine were ceased and difrend wire setup

Only onr thing thats bothering is - why does the exhaust tone changed when I still have the same exhaust system on(from manifild to exhast tip)? It have a higer and shaper tone than before
 

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95sentrab13:
the heavier weight oil wont change anything. i tried it in my car. i had a slow oil leak(crank pully) and i tried the 15w50 and it still leaked.

man as far as the exhasut note changing...its probably just the manifold.
 

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same leak on my engine

is the oil leak on the crank seal a common problem with sentras? because i have the same leak on my ga16. it is a slow leak, but annoying and the oil is slung up by the belt onto the underside of my hood. i bought the replacement seals about six months ago and haven't gotten around to putting them in. how hard would it be to replace the crank seal on my ga16?
 

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My problem Katana200sx now is not an oil leak, that was fixed. The problem is that the crankshaft was scored from the previous set of bearings and is now chewing up the new ones. I was wondering if heavier oil would stop the rattling and provide a bit more protection, especially with synthetic just to keep the engine a live a little while longer.

Dookie, crank seal leaks usually occur when there is too much oil in the crankcase which results in higher pressure and will blow the front seal and eventually blow the side seal. I have no idea how hard it would be to replace, a Haynes manual may help.
 

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mines leaking near the alternator. back when it was my moms car my pops got it checked out and found out it was some sort of seal but he forgot exactly what it was. the nissan place said it would be like a 100 some dollars to fix so i don't think its too serious of a leak. what do you guys think it is?
 

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yeah they wanted a 100. i probally can get it done for just the cost of the seal in autotech class
 

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ya gotta be kidding... they wanted $300 to do mine at the dealership... 50-60??? i'm gonna have to shop around...
 

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P.O.S. Truckdriver
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nope not a joke....alot of people on the mailing list quoted that price too. well most said when they got their under drive pullies put on they got the seal replaced and it was like $70. so yeah shop around.
 

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that $300 is what they quoted me for just the seal... that was back when i didnt even know what an underdrive pully was...
 
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