[pickleknock]

most of the info i found was the ga16 ---> sr20 swap...

okay, i have a 91 sentra se-r with the sr20de motor, which is blown. it is FWD. the motor i want to swap into there would be the sr20det. the tranny i have now is still good and already has an aftermarket clutch. how difficult is this swap going to be? i found a cheap gtir sr20det motor that is in good shape, but is mated to an AWD tranny. will the gtir sr20det motor mount right up to my stock FWD tranny just fine? and i understand that the motor mounts should be identical?

 

[lshadoff]

Here's two I found by searching for 'SR20DET swap' in the B13 section:

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=1494
http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=11168

Lew

 

[toolapcfan]

The GTiR I believe requires a little more finesse to swap than the other DET's out there, and I'm not sure what areas need finessing. I don't know if it's true of all DET's but I know that the W11 in particular, doesn't have all the spots to bolt up the support bearing for the passenger's side axle. It also requires some grinding to clear the crossmember. Other than that, you'll need to swap many, if not all of the sensors from your SR20DE to the DET and I think you'll need to use the fuel injector harness from a DET and splice it into your SR20DE injector harness. You'll need to run different engine management, so you could use a DET ECU as long as it's OBDI. That's the cheapest way to deal with that.

 

[Slacky]

go with a blue bird, u can get replacement parts with ease because most US parts match up, and u are gonna eventually upgrade the turbo and everything anyway so no sense in gettin a gti-r just because it has a better stock set up unless u get one reallllly cheap like i did. look for a set up with a full wire harness and all necessary electronics and sensors just makes it easier. and as for the swap itself it bolts right up its the same engine goin in thats comin out i think u just have to switch the engine moutns as they are shaped a little different to connect to the former chassy. the gti-r engien requires a little grinding and trimming of three support ribs coming off the oil pan for added suport as said in the previous quick reply and the position of the power stearing pump hosing is a bit of a pain. hopefully all these little bits of info help sway your decision

 

[pickleknock]

yeah, i was thinking the blue bird might be a better way to go. i will probably go right through JGY to get it, they seem very reputable. so then i take it the blue bird motor is going to bolt right up to my FWD tranny and i will just need slightly different motor mounts? is the difference in the bushings then or is there going to be cutting/welding and whatnot? if i get the engine that comes with all the harness and ECU, then i should be pretty much set and ready to swap... anything i need to do with the injector harness if i use the bluebird motor?

 

[Slacky]

i think all u have to do is take the engine mounts fromt he stock se-r engine and put them onthe blue bird and it goes right in there mating perfect with the tranny and yea u should be fine for electrical though u might wanna get the usual little piggy backs like a boost controler, turbo timer, etc. as well as a few necessary gueages to make sure your new engine doesnt pop

 

[pickleknock]

sweet, sounds good, a lot easier then te gtir motor. im probably going to try to run the motor at 10 lbs on a regular basis, so about 230hp at the wheels. think this will be okay for it to run normally or should i get a dual stage boost controller and have it run at the stock 7ish and 10 when i need to move?

 

[lshadoff]

sweet, sounds good, a lot easier then te gtir motor. im probably going to try to run the motor at 10 lbs on a regular basis, so about 230hp at the wheels. think this will be okay for it to run normally or should i get a dual stage boost controller and have it run at the stock 7ish and 10 when i need to move?

It is my experience that 10 psi is unmanagable in 1-st gear on street tires. My 205/50 16 S-03 Pole Positions can just hold 6.5# on a warm day. They howl when boost comes on at 6.5#, and loose traction so it hits the rev limiter immediately when boost comes on at 9#. I am using a Profec B set at 6.5 and 9psi. I can switch to the high boost setting after shifting out of 1-st.

10 psi is about the limit for the stock DE MAF and 370 injectors on my car. Any more boost and I risk maxing one or both making the mixture go lean and having detonation destroy the engine.

Lew

 

[Slacky]

good point i will keep that in mind when im doin mine, i thought i was gonna be able to start cus i finished my bench in the garage and got all my tools but it wont get warm enough to do the initial swap im gettin mad!!! but atleast my engine is in sight now rather than burried behind ladders and boxes of junk

 

[pickleknock]

the problems you are having with traction, is that without having a LSD? my last question now is about the harness. will the stock sr20de harness work but just need a JWT ECU? if not, where can i get the harness i need?

 

[toolapcfan]

You don't need a new ECU harness, and considering the DET ECU will cost you $100 instead of $500 for the JWT, I'd try that first. At least until you've got the car running smoothly. Then look into alternative engine management if you feel the need to. I'd also steer well clear of JGY customs. I've read and heard a lot of things about them that has convinced me to never do business with them. If you want a good place to get an engine from, get one from Andreas Miko down in Florida. He even modifies the block so that you've got the spot to mount the axle support bearing, and grinds off the area that won't clear the crossmember.

 

[lshadoff]

the problems you are having with traction, is that without having a LSD? my last question now is about the harness. will the stock sr20de harness work but just need a JWT ECU? if not, where can i get the harness i need?

My car has an auto trans with VLSD. Low gear is longer than 1-st in a manual, so the problem would be worse with a manual trans.

B14 SE-R Manual:
1-st gear = 3.063
final drive = 4.176
overall ratio = 12.8:1

B14 SE-R Auto:
1-st gear = 2.861
final drive = 3.827
overall ratio = 10.9:1

Lew

 

[pickleknock]

ah, okay. sounds like a limited slip will be one of the things to add for sure. do i want the u12 or u13 bluebird motor from jgy? and can i use the stock wiring harness with the sr20det ecu?

 

[Slacky]

the difference in u12 and u13 is just chassy code like 87-90 are b12 and 91-94 sentras are b13's but. the u12 and u13 are both sr20dets just different year brackets so make sure if your gettin a u12 it doesnt have high miles as if they would say anyway and as for the stock wire harness... u could use it but ud have to hack some stuff up and switch a few wires around because there are soem sensors on the stock engine that a u13 wouldnt have aswell as some grounds and powers might be opposite on some plugs. i have the whole write up for how to use a stock harness with a gti-r engine so im sure theres one for a u12/u13 setup floating around in past threads

 

[pickleknock]

yeah, i was wanting to go with the u12 as it came with a top mount, so i wont have to worry about installing the fmic till later. i just need the basics to get out of the garage first, then upgrade later as i go, since there is a chance this may be my only car once i get it running good. but i think this should be a pretty easy swap since i am pretty much changing out only the motor and not the tranny or anything. it sounds like the main things im gonna need are the sr20det, some better motor mounts, 3" downpipe from jgy, and the ecu. i take it the sr20det ecu will plug into the harness that is for the sr20de?

 

[Slacky]

i beleive the ecu with plug right up yes. top mount eh, i got one of those ... my hood hits when i close it or rather it will when i do the swap so im cuttin a hole to perfectly fit the intercooler, hood with touch right up to the edge when closed i think its gonna look neat though idk what to do when i haev to park somewhere like at a concert leavin ma baby a lone with such a important part just stickin out like that, some people are azzholes. Also if u have a welder and pipe bender think about makin your own pipe im gonna make a 4 inch down pipe to a 3 inch all the way back

 

[pickleknock]

yeah, i shouldnt have to worry about the top mount for long as the fmic would be the next thing i'd do. i have a stock evo8 intercooler i may see if i can try to fit in there. it sounds like i got all the info i need then to make this work. just gotta work on getting a u12 motor now since im not gonna go with the gtir (which i think is a good choice). the bluebird will make the sentra move fast enough i wish i knew how to weld better as then i would make my own pipe. maybe ill have to read up a little on the net how to do it (since thats where most of my education comes from as it is).

 

[Slacky]

f that my buddy angalo is a idiot and he welds great for only doing it twice, put a exhaust on my beater car out of spare piping layin around

 

[pickleknock]

i may have to start askin some friends around that can weld then for some help. ill pick up the flange and bends i need and get them to work once i get the motor in.

 

[pickleknock]

i did some calling today and found a motor for 1700 bucks, including the ecu, no tranny though (which is not needed). what do you think of this deal, has a warrenty and harness already included which really isnt needed either but can be handy for a little side profit. its local as well so no shipping will be needed. motor is at 40k miles.