*Need Help* Evap/Charcoal cannister Bypass

10mm&ADream said:

2006 Nissan T30 X-Trail QR25DE

Hi, back again with another question about the evap system.

While trying to move the carbon/evap/charcoal cannister to get access to the sway bars, I snapped the bolt holding the cannister, and without being able to safely tie it in place till I can get to my buddy who is a welder, I was wondering if there was a way to just "Bypass" the system without causing any issues or any dangerous leaking fuel vapors.

And bonus if it can Bypass a 0455 large leak code the cannister itself is causing (however since a sensor is disconnected it is throwing a <0452 EVAP system pressure switch 'A' circuit low>)

Thanks in advance for your input!

Click to expand...

i am no expert in this area, but i was just reading up on why we have charcoal cannisters andhow important they are.
Main two points
1. It helps keep the environment clean. *(
Because the canister collects this vapor and then uses it to power the engine, the EVAP system helps cars be safer for the environment and more efficient.)
2. The charcoal cannister helps to protect the driver and his/he occupants from any dangerous/ noxious fumes entering the cabin which could make you very ill or lose consciousness.

So if you decide to remove it and drive without it , ROLL DOWN YOUR WINDOWS to fully ventilate the vehicle's cabin.
But , reading from the article, you should keep the charcoal cannister.
Id ask your mechanic buddy to blow some compress air into it ( gently as to not damage internally) while he has it half dangling and up on the hoist).
5 Symptoms of a Bad Charcoal Canister (and Replacement Cost in 2022)

I’ll try to make this as simple and useable as possible
Im an old retired certified master tech since 1976. and working on everything since 1956.
The system is designed to store the vapors from the fuel tank when the engine is off. the canister is filled with activated charcoal granules the size of rock salt that will store fuel vapors Then when the engine is running the solenoid turns on a vacuum line which allows the engine to burn the vapors. when everything is working correctly the computer compensates for the extra fuel-air flow and the result is that the fumes get burned and YOU GET BETTER MILEAGE while keeping the fumes from stinking up the vehicle and going somewhere else. The best thing you can do is to make sure the whole system is working. the code is simply telling you that the system thinks there is a leak or an electrical problem as it runs a leak check when the key is turned to the on position and or the engine starts. The best thing you can do is go online and buy a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. You will save a lot of money on wasted parts and an unbelievable amount of time. I have the factory manuals for every one of my vehicles. Be skeptical about anything you believe and anyone says. Don‘t believe me either I always start by writing down that I AM WRONG, then check and recheck everything before starting over again. I once spent two days trying to find out why a six month old ZX had a fuel smell on the passenger side only and set a code. The service manager finally let me speak to the owner person who Said said “I drilled a tiny 1/32 inch hole in the cap because the tank had too much pressure buildup”. I was the idiot who figgered the cap couldn’t be bad on a car with only 300 miles on it.
For now get some long zip ties and stap it tightly to something solid and make sure none of the lines have any cracks until you can get it repaired correctly.
hope this helps a little.