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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My key for my car sucks i keeps bending when i unlock my doors and in my ignition it catches once and a while.
My main question is does anyone have the wiring diagram for the ignition module? I want to do something crazy and make it a push button start.
I have looked for the types of switches i need and found them it all comes down to knowing when wire does what
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Because Size Matters
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A pushbutton start wont help much for the doors however. I would recommend getting a new key from your dealer. There should be a key code on the passenger side lock cylinder that your local dealer or even a locksmith could cut you a key from.

As for the pushbutton start, that would be an interestiong task but it would be possible, (I think)
 

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unless you like to have your car stolen and the insurance refuse to pay you because you made it wayyyyyyy to easy to be stolen i wouldnt do that.
 

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my door locks are a pain in the ass as well, im ABOUt to go to the junkyard and get two new cylinders...having two keys beats having only one door to open....when im lucky :)
 

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Because Size Matters
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I would recommend getting a new key from your dealer. There should be a key code on the passenger side lock cylinder that your local dealer or even a locksmith could cut you a key from.
I guess this didn't sink in..........nuff said
 

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HATEnFATE said:
I guess this didn't sink in..........nuff said
junkyard $$$ < dealer/locksmith $$$


i drive a $600 beater, i have NO need to spend any more than i have to.
 

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you do realize a key is less then $4 and much easier to get? you don't have to do anything but remove your passenger lock cylinder and get the code off of it. give that to your local dealer and they can cut a key from it. just like going to menards. it's not a lot of money.
 

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To answer your original question.. yes its very possible... and yes its very simple. It won't cure the problems that you have with the key in the doors though. My grandfather had an '85 Chevy Celebrity that the key cylinder had issues, and would turn on and off, just not into the crank/start position. So I broke the key off inside the cylinder, wired up a push button for the start and drove it like that for the next almost 3 years until we retired it to the junkyard. Just turned the cylinder, hit the button and off ya went!
 

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TwiztidKidd
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What's your stop button... you place your foot over the exhaust tailpipe? ... just kidding... I don't think it's a good idea either get that key cylinder fixed, check the link to the shift console.
 

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i need new cylinders though, my key is grade A fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry i didn't respond for a while busy weekend.

I know that will not solve the door problem i thing the sub zero temps are not helping anything right now.

As for the push button start, I want to get into custom work for cars and i think i will go to the local Fleet Farm and get a simple three wire ignition and use a different key for that. I think i can figure all that out.

What i want to know is what wire does what for the ignition does anyone have an idea for where a wiring diagram could be found for it?
 

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Your electrical friend
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White is hot all the time and supplies all the power to the ignition switch.
White/Blue is the ACC wire, it should have power with the key in the ACC and ON positions only.
Black/Red is the ON/Start wire and should have power in the ON and Start positions only.
Black/white and Black/Yellow are the Start wires, and should have power in the Start position only.
 

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toolapcfan said:
White is hot all the time and supplies all the power to the ignition switch.
White/Blue is the ACC wire, it should have power with the key in the ACC and ON positions only.
Black/Red is the ON/Start wire and should have power in the ON and Start positions only.
Black/white and Black/Yellow are the Start wires, and should have power in the Start position only.
I don't know what it is about you, but everytime I am stuck and finally get the right search phrase, there you are with an answer 6 times out of 10.

I've been staring cross-eyed at the FSM electrical diagrams and the steering section and could not find what you just wrote. I'm hoping what you just wrote is applicable for a GA16 B13.

OK, so I have a race car that is no longer street legal and nobody is going to steal the darn thing, so I'm in the process of planning on an ignition toggle switch (IGN) and momentary toggle switch for starting (STR).

So from your description, then I need to do this for the two switches
(Forgive the ASCII and assume both switches are SPST and again, assuming the colors are right for GA16 B13)


WHITE --- (IGN) ---- White/Blue and Black/Red

WHITE --- (STR) ---- Black/White and Black/Yellow


If it's that simple, you are my hero for the day :)

:thumbup:
 

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Your electrical friend
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MShorten said:
I don't know what it is about you, but everytime I am stuck and finally get the right search phrase, there you are with an answer 6 times out of 10.

I've been staring cross-eyed at the FSM electrical diagrams and the steering section and could not find what you just wrote. I'm hoping what you just wrote is applicable for a GA16 B13.

OK, so I have a race car that is no longer street legal and nobody is going to steal the darn thing, so I'm in the process of planning on an ignition toggle switch (IGN) and momentary toggle switch for starting (STR).

So from your description, then I need to do this for the two switches
(Forgive the ASCII and assume both switches are SPST and again, assuming the colors are right for GA16 B13)


WHITE --- (IGN) ---- White/Blue and Black/Red

WHITE --- (STR) ---- Black/White and Black/Yellow


If it's that simple, you are my hero for the day :)

:thumbup:
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad to help. There's slight variations in wire colors for B13's and it really has nothing to do with what engine. I think that the changes occured between '92 and '93. Pre '93, might have different colored wires, and '93-'94 will be the same as what I have in that post.
 

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toolapcfan said:
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad to help. There's slight variations in wire colors for B13's and it really has nothing to do with what engine. I think that the changes occured between '92 and '93. Pre '93, might have different colored wires, and '93-'94 will be the same as what I have in that post.
Yea, that just figures. Ain't nothin' easy about any of this. LOLOLOL!

If that's the case, any advice on how to read the FSM electrical diagram? I've got some electronics experience, I know a resistor from a capacitor, but the diagram for the E51 harness connection is confusing. I guessing that the chart that shows the various key positions must be talking about which posts on the switch are active, but I'm not 100% sure.

Plus, I can't really be certain that I've got everything covered. There are two other harnesses that the FSM shows (E52 and E53) that I cannot find where they go or what they do - the "solenoid lockout" concerns me.

Or am I making this too complicated?

Regards,
Michael
 

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Your electrical friend
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MShorten said:
Yea, that just figures. Ain't nothin' easy about any of this. LOLOLOL!

If that's the case, any advice on how to read the FSM electrical diagram? I've got some electronics experience, I know a resistor from a capacitor, but the diagram for the E51 harness connection is confusing. I guessing that the chart that shows the various key positions must be talking about which posts on the switch are active, but I'm not 100% sure.

Plus, I can't really be certain that I've got everything covered. There are two other harnesses that the FSM shows (E52 and E53) that I cannot find where they go or what they do - the "solenoid lockout" concerns me.

Or am I making this too complicated?

Regards,
Michael
Yeah, you're making it too complicated. You only need to concern yourself with what wires do what, and when at the ignition switch. If you turn to the power supply routing diagram (Page EL-8 in my book), at the top you'll see the ignition switch. You can see the five wires at the harness and see what numbers they correspond with at the switch. The diagram shows you which wires have continuity at which switch positions. ACC has continuity between 1 and 2, ON has continuity between 1, 2 and 3. Start as continuity between 1, 3, 4 and 5. So you'd wire your toggle switch to send power from 1, to 2 and 3. Then connect your momentray contact, start switch, to send power from 1 to 3, 4 and 5. You'll also want to wire up a relay that is powered by one of the two wires that only have power during start, which would be 4 or 5. Use that relay to kill power from wire 1 to wire 2, because that wire is not supposed to be powered during startup. That's it. So you need a momentary contact spst switch that can handle a decent bit of amperage, and a spst switch that handle about 30A-40A, and a relay.
 

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toolapcfan said:
The diagram shows you which wires have continuity at which switch positions. ACC has continuity between 1 and 2, ON has continuity between 1, 2 and 3. Start as continuity between 1, 3, 4 and 5. So you'd wire your toggle switch to send power from 1, to 2 and 3. Then connect your momentray contact, start switch, to send power from 1 to 3, 4 and 5. You'll also want to wire up a relay that is powered by one of the two wires that only have power during start, which would be 4 or 5. Use that relay to kill power from wire 1 to wire 2, because that wire is not supposed to be powered during startup. That's it. So you need a momentary contact spst switch that can handle a decent bit of amperage, and a spst switch that handle about 30A-40A, and a relay.

Well, now I see it (FSM EL6 for the 92 version) and yup, it makes sense now. I think I'm going to skip the relay - since it's to shut ACC off, and I have no ACC's hooked up *grin* so we should be good. Thanks again, you are definitely owed a beer if you ever come out this way :)
:cheers:

Regards,
Michael
 
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