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Lifes a garden, Dig it!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, heres the deal, in chronilogical order. Friday night: car started bogging, almost stalling out of nowhere. When it was in nuetral, it was fine, but, put it in first gear, and it tried to stall again. Almost like something in the drivetrain was binding. I put the car in reverse, and the car moved and ran fine. It was late, so I parked it. Saturday: I go out in the morning to check it out. I start the car, and it started REALLY rough, almost like it was missing. Then it smootheed out and idled fine. I tried to back it up to the garage to get a better look, but it just cut off. So I pushed it back and got a look. It wouldn't even start anymore. I walked back in the house disgusted. Monday: I came home from work and once again tried to start it. It started rough again, then stalled after 20 seconds. I checked for spark, changed plugs, retarded the timing back to what I believe to be about 15(it was advanced to 17), compression tested(it checked at 150+ on all cylinders), and although I didnt' have a fuel pressure gauge, I disconnected the fuel line and seen if it had any pressure that way(ghetto fab, I know). Now I start the car after all this, and it starts right up, idles fine........for about 30 seconds. Then it just dies. It wont' start back up unless I wait about 2-3 minutes, then it will do the same thing. If I rev it, it will get to around 5000rpm, then just die again. Does anybody have any clue what the heck is going on!!??
 

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I have a few answers. Does the engine stall after you hit the gas? It may be the AAC valve on the intake manifold directly opposite of the throttle body side. You can take the 2 bolts holding it on and then remove the parts and clean them. Sometimes the carbon gums the srping inside and the plunger sticks. This can happen out of knowhere. Clean it with gumout and put together and see what happens.

2. It also may be the fuel pressure regulator or the pump, you need to install an inline pressure reader and see if it drops after hitting the gas, at idle and at reving up.
Idle 36 psi
throttle open 43 PSI

No good, check the regultor first, get a good one from someone and try it. Then go fo the pump.

You should get a consult computer to access the codes and read all the votage readings.

Chris 92 classic
 

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Chris makes excellent points.

I didn't see fuel filter mentioned anywhere. Sound like a plugged fuel filter to me; change fuel filter -- Then do what Chris suggests. Unless I overlooked it.

Definitely sounds like a fuel delivery problem.
Raul
 

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Your electrical friend
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Yeah, FPR's aren't cheap are they? More than a pump IIRC. I'd think if it's the pump, then he'd never get it to start. Pump's are easy to change out though. Filters are cheap.
 

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Lifes a garden, Dig it!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I replaced the filter about three months ago, at the same time I also replaced the plugs for NGK Iridiums, NGK 8mm wires, Red Line full synthetic, and a CAI. I'm gonna try to find a Fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure today. I started it again today, it did the same thing as last time. Runs for about 20 seconds, then just stalls.
 

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Nissan Wizard
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How about checking some of your sensors, like your tps or maybe your maf...did you connect it to your cai? stuff like that...
 

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A cloggeed fuel filter will slow the motor down, unless the diaphragm ruptured, but I think you have more problems than that. But change it anyway, pull off that AAC valve and clean it good. Thats you idle control valve and if that thing goes goofy or stuck, you will idle poorly or not at all. If you ever turned the screw down all the way, the idle will get shitty. But look into it. If the thing is off and on, then there may be a MAF problem. I had issues with mine, the wires pulled out of harness and it would not start at all. Look at those things too for condition. The Nissan Consult is the best tool for diagnosing things though, make sure you check the fuel pressure and see if it reads the readings I gave you.
Chris 92 classic
 

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Lifes a garden, Dig it!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
New development! Now my car will start and stay running. BUT..when I put it in any forward gear, it shuts down, if I put it in reverse, its fine. It goes all day in reverse!! By the way, I picked up a fuel pressure gauge and installed it today. It was reading 39/40 at idle, and at WOT it read close to 50. Thats ok right? I haven't checked that valve yet, I ran out of daylight. Hopefully I'll get to do that tomorrow after work. Could my trans be the culprit behind all this? When I let off the clutch, it does go down a little. ARGH!!!!!
 

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91SR20DE said:
New development! Now my car will start and stay running. BUT..when I put it in any forward gear, it shuts down, if I put it in reverse, its fine. It goes all day in reverse!!
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Hopefully I'll get to do that tomorrow after work. Could my trans be the culprit behind all this? When I let off the clutch, it does go down a little. ARGH!!!!!
If the car works fine in reverse then obviously there is NOTHING wrong with the engine, fuel, ignition, or whatever.
Whatever it may be, it is definitely by the tranny.

Now, I can only think of the tranny switches as a possible culprit. We can rule out the Reverse Switch (since it only lights up the reverse light and the car is running fine in reverse anyway) and concentrate on the NEUTRAL SWITCH.

Presumably, when you go from neutral to 1st or any forward gear it somehow messes up the computer. Now, I do not know exactly what the switch does but it definitely sends a signal to the ECU so it knows we actually want to go forward and act accordingly (for example, if the ECU sees full-open TPS and the switch OFF the neutral position it shuts down the AC compressor assuming we need all the power we can get).

So to summarize, IMHO start looking for a replacement Neutral Switch. BTW, if your car has cruise-control then 99% this is the guilty item.

Chris
 

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Lifes a garden, Dig it!
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Well, I have no cruise control. And I shoul have explained in detail a little better about the foward gear thing. It starts to shut down as I start to release the clutch, its like something is binding really bad. I can even rev it up to around 5000 and pop the clutch and it will still try to stall unless I hurry up and push the clutch back down. Usually at this point it runs rough for about 10 seconds then smooths back out. My car is like a pirate with a steering wheel on his crotch, "Its driving me nuts!" ARRRRRRR......

p.s. Happy Turkey Day!!!!
 

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Lifes a garden, Dig it!
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yet another development, I gave up, I'm going nutty. I'm just taking it to the shop. I'll let you guys know what they find monday.
 

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Lifes a garden, Dig it!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update,

I just got my car back today. Apperently there were broken wires in a harness that went to the engine, which explains why the car went in reverse, but not foward. The connection was lost when the engine torqued forward. They kept it for two days and charged me $250 for the repairs, most of which covered the time invested in finding the problem. The guy who did the work is the only mechanic I legitimatly trust to not screw me over, he has done tons of work on my prior Saabs, and always took care of me way cheaper than any other shop out there. Has anybody else encountered similar problems with thier B13? And why do I still feel screwed on the price? Hmmmmmm.......
 

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I wondered if it was in the harness that runs to the tranny? Which harness did they say was the culprit? Htey should give you a breakdown of the trouble.
Chris 92 classic
 
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