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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when you stop in traffic with the ac on the engine cuts off. if you turn it on with car idling it runs funny when u turn it off like it isn't turning enough rpms or something but runs normal when u give it some gas. we took it to the nissan place they said some sort of valve was the problem and it would cost 300 to fix it. damn i have to many problems with my car. this ones, door locks not working, the gas tank opener lever won't open the gas tank, and its leaking oil near the alternator.
 

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Cone Dodger
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a/c idle problems....

i think the valve they are most like likely talking about is the idle air control valve, it increases engine rpm to accomodate for added engine accessory load like the a/c or when turning, with the power steering pump requiring full support, also 300?? i think it's a little bit too high, but their diagnostics is right.........let me know what happens......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it stopped doing that last summer but started again when i turned on the AC last week. I got remote start on my car now so i definitely want to be able to let the car idle with the AC on especially since i'm considering getting leather seats so i'm going to fix it. Anyone know if i can do it myself or how hard it could be, I want to save myself some money and i am in a auto mechanics class so i'm going to take avantage of it. I hope it isn't one of those things that only a trained A/C technician has to work on
 

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Your electrical friend
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It's the FICD (Fast Idle Control Device) like azkicker0027 said. It's located on the IACV-AAC assembly on the back left corner of the engine just behind your PCV. It's a simple solenoid. You should be able to find someone parting out a car and you can buy a used one from them cheap and put it in yourself. You can ask me all kinds of shit about the IACV and it's various components, as it's become my worst enemy and is the reason for my shitty idle problems. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
all that about about the idle air control valve stuff makes since. i can also hear a slight rpm drop when i turn the steering wheel while its idling. its not because i need a tune-up because i took it to the dealer and they told us what it was. the only reason why i asked is because they told my father not me and he doesn't have the acroynm remembering capacity as me so all he could tell me is that it was some kind of valve. I'm guessing since you said i can get it from somewhere cheap that its a pretty expensive part. What is the exact name of the part i need? you both told me to kinda different things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
do u know if they talk about fixing it in the haynes manual. I haven't found it since i don't really know what it looks like
 

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Your electrical friend
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You just need to check out the FICD solenoid, it's integrated into the IACV-AAC assembly on the back left side of your engine, it's connected to the Throttle Body. It's right behind your PCV valve. Someone with a GA needs to take ten seconds and snap a photo for this guy. Then get someone with a FSM to tell you how to check the wires with a voltmeter and how to check the FICD itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
damn the FSM is like 50 dollars. oh well still cheaper than getting nissan fo fix it. about how much would a new one cost??
 

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Your electrical friend
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$50? I paid closer to $80 for mine and it was worth it. If you're going to kep your car very long and are going to do work on it yourself, get a FSM, you can always resell it and should be able to get rid of it easily. If you're asking how much a new FICD is it's likely nissan only sells the whole IACV-AAC assembly and I think it's around $300. Find someone parting out a car and get one used cheap. That's what I'm doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you sure? the delearships estimated fee was around 300. I probally could find a b13 with AC in the junkyard. I might be able to get a FSM off of ebay
 

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No Nissan Yet
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clean your thottle body. that can cause the problem you are having. go from there.

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
that side of my engine near the tranny is clean.(I got a oil leak that i'm about to fix later this week, i hope its the front crankcase seal because that little fucker's expensive) Like i said, i took it to the dealership to get a diagnostics and from what my dad remembers it was some kind of valve bieng the problem
 
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IACV Cost

Im having problmes with mine no the Haynes Manual does no go into detail about it and last i checked it Runs around $124.00 at Auto Zone.



my car is ideling low to begin with i tried cleaning the throttlebody and no difference, when i run my ac it idels around 600-800 rpm not bad however the minute i shut it off the damn thing drops to 300-100 ( yes i have a tach) and then stalls. after restarting it wont hold an idle over 300 and wont stay running i have to goose the gas for at least 20 minutes Grrrr what a pain so if anyone have the same problem please let me know i am assuming its the IACV and i have looked i havent seen any adjustment screws like i have read about on here ? if there is one can some one please take a pic of it for me ???
 

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FIX

Ok brother , I ll tell you how to solve the problem and save 300 bucks this time. The problem is with your AAC valve. It is located right before your throttle body it has a black body and two screws hold it in the place. There is also an orange socket connects to it. First remove the socket by gently pressing the tongue on it and pull it away from the black head. Then remove the two screws. the whole thing will come out pretty easy . You will see there is a green moving part inside the thing, and i bet the whole thing is filled with dust. take a syringe and fill it with %100 alcohol and squirt it into the space between the green part and the metalk part of the solenoid . Try not to squirt it into the head portion. Flush it thoroughly, then gat a q tip and clean the interior as well. then go for the socket on the throttle body that AAC valve sits in. It is filled with crap too get a wet/damp cloth and thoroughly clean the site. Once you make sure everything is clean replace everything in reverse order and don't forget to plug the socket back on.....!!! This WILL solve your problem..If your engine light is on it should dissappear within a week, if it doesn't reset your ecu..
Regards..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i thought the problem was something like that. its too much of a off and on again problem. i also found out its location in my haynes manual. i'll probally try cleaning it this weekend. thanks
 
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Horray Horray

Sert thank you for the info because of you i was able to save 300 buck for something that cost me .50 cents and about 10 minutes time to do. i cleaned the IACV housing and like you said it ws dirty as hell,( i took pics of the process if anyone wants to se pm or email me) Damn once againthanks if you loved in florida id buy ya a beer:cheers: . i have had this problem for over a year now and had no extra money to take it to the dealer thanks bro.:
 

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happy it worked

well i am glad it worked for you ..i guess that is the best thing about forums..
 
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