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Discussion Starter #1
just heard about 20w-50 not educated much on oil, is it worth the few extra dollars or what is an ideal motor oil which is better than normal oil.
 

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quentin508 said:
what is the best motor oil in your opinion ?

I have a related question also, I read that DELO 15W40 is very very good for its price. BUT did anyone put in GA16 and observed mileage drop or hard starting of the car. I know that 15 is somewhat viscous but does it really matter for summer, I live in Atlanta and the least temperature we will see for 6 months will be 65F. About your question, the best is hard to comment on, because there are oil which you cannot buy from store but can only order online, some special oils for racing and so on, for a regular driver I think Mobil 1 is good enough
 

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Have I Hit 12's Yet?
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quentin508 said:
what is the best motor oil in your opinion ?
royal purple i think?
 

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bitter old man
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NotAnotherHonda said:
royal purple i think?
You're nit-picking. Any pure synthetic is a large jump over dino-oil for stability. Brands just juggle additive packages to distinguish themselves from competitors.

Stay away from 15W-50 unless you live in an equatorial region where it never gets cold and usually gets very hot. Road racers could make a case for that grade, too.
 

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Please Shift Here
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I gotta say Royal Purple is a bit much, it's supposedly the best but how many people have tried it? Prolly no one here, b/c you can't find it anywhere. Why would you bother to hunt it down and most likely pay more PLUS shipping? I can go to any store here and pick up Mobil 1 and I would expect it to be 99% as good as royal purple. Going back to my original statement Mobil 1 is the best you can buy WITHIN REASON. If you're inclined to buy something better than Mobil 1 than you have too much time and money on your hands. Until technology gives some other company the leading edge over Mobil 1 and it's available at my local Advance Autoparts, I'll stick with Mobil 1.

Once again, as I and bahearn have stated:
5w-30 if it's cold (lets say average day temp. is below 65*F)
10w-30 if it's warm (average day temp. is above 65*F)
15w-30 if it's hot (average day temp is over 100*F)
You may switch viscosities for the seasonal changes.

15w-30 is also good for prolonged racing (not drag), and maybe, MAYBE the turbo guys who have oil-cooled turbos.

Also, keep in mind, if you have some reason to actually go up to a 15w-50 motor oil, there are better options you should consider:
Oil coolers, oil filter relocation, oil pan spacers, or anything that will allow you to use more oil (more oil = cooler oil*).

* When I say more oil = cooler oil, don't go outside and add an extra quart to your engine b/c too much oil is bad. Always use factory recomended values. Oil coolers, remote filter relocation, turbos, and pan spacers allow the engine to safely hold more oil than stock because there's more places for the oil to go.
 

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Why don't people use the search feature? This topic comes up often and there are plenty of good threads on it. Search using the word "synthetic" or some of the many common brands of oil: "Castrol," "Pennzoil," "Mobil" or "Chevron." :rolleyes:

Mobil 1 is fine ... now ... but a few years ago I think it was a poor choice because of a weak additive package. Just because they advertise the most, doesn't make them the best.

I use Schaeffer's synthetic blends. They have a great additive package and are more shear stable even than some synthetics ... especially Royal Purple. :rolleyes:

http://www.schaefferoil.com/

Um, why do people think Royal Purple is so good ... because of it's 'kewl' color? :rolleyes:

20W-50 is too thick for any modern engine unless you are running extreme engine temps ... and in that case you best be using a top quality synthetic like Red Line, Amsoil, etc .... Doesn't everyone know this by now? I can't believe they still sell the stuff in the quantities that they do. It's mostly good for basket-case oil-burning vehicles right before they are headed for the scrapyard. :rolleyes:

tony200, the oil discussion in that site/article is pretty poor and is discussed in this thread:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000386

People who live in Atlanta Georgia will have no problem turning over a 15W-40 oil first thing in the morning. Look for the newest Delo400 which says "Low Wear Formula" as that one has a lot of moly in it. Maybe use a synthetic blend 1515W-40 like Schaeffer Supreme 7000 which has 20-25% PAO in it and pumps like a 10W-30.

"15w-30 is also good for prolonged racing ... "

I have never seen 15W-30 oil. Are you talking about M1 15W-50? :confused:

"Any pure synthetic is a large jump over dino-oil for stability."

Not really true. Mobil 1 starts out thin ... and Royal Purple thins from a 10W-30 down to a 10W-20 in only 1,500 miles before oxidation slowly begins to thicken it back up. UOAs show that it thins quickly like no other oil I've ever seen.

And only Mobil 1, Red Line, Amsoil and a few other specialty brands are real synthetics (PAO, ester, etc ...). Many such as Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline are highly refined (hydrocracked) Group III mineral oils merely calling themselves "synthetic." They are not much better than Group II+ oils like Chevron Supreme or Pennzoil ... but triple the cost. :p
 

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Not Anymore.
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I've been using Amsoil because I buy it in bulk. Royal Purple is :thumbdwn: I plan to get a UOA after I get 10k on my next Amsoil change (the cam install may throw some metal in the current run), and then try Schaeffers and get a UOA after using that after a few runs. I used Chevron for a few hundred when I did my cam install. Chevron has a great dino blend and I had no problem, although I have no UOA to say much more about them on my engine.
 

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Sethticlees said:
Mobil 1 synthetic 0w-30


I also have proof that Mobil 1 synthetic works best in our cars.

Can you share the Proof please?
 

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znamya said:
Can you share the Proof please?
NickZac said:
I'de like to see that too just out of curiousity.

Sure! I thought you'd never ask... :)

Durring the beginning of this year when I did my engine swap I saw something that changed my opinion of Mobile 1 synthetic forever...
I was so taken back by the results that I have sworn to use only Mobile 1 for the life of my engine and likely every engine there after.

Here is a photo of an SR20 engine w/100k plus miles. Dino oil was obviously used its entire life. Look at the discoloration and crud.




Now, I spoke with the former owner of my new engine and he said he had been the original owner and has used Mobile 1 synthetic it's whole life... 75,000 + miles...

When I got the engine home the first thing I did what pull the valve cover and this is what I saw...
Pic 1
Pic 2


The entire head looks NEW. I couldn't believe the inside of an engine could look this clean especially after some 75,000 miles + usage.
So I asked my buddy what kind of oil he's been using and he told me nothing but Mobile 1 Synthetic for the life of the engine.

My response was, "Then I will use Mobile 1 Synthetic for the remaining life of that engine."


Sure, any synthetic motor oil could have given the exact same results but I don't have any proof on hand to show you that. I do however have rock solid proof that Mobile 1 Synthetic works excellent in our engines and so I offer this to you.
You can make your own decision but the proven winner in my book, from now on, is Mobile 1 Synthetic. :thumbup:
 

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I'm going to have to agree with Sethticlees. I have seen the same results on my own cars too. Just don't have any cool pictures like those. 10W-30 Mobile1 for life!
 
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