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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #1
Everything installed perfectly; I am fully bolted and more except for the header which I am waiting for. I wish I would have recieved it a while back, as I wouldnt have to pose this question now.

I smell something like oil. The pre catalyst is hissing when the engine is off, as if water is dropped onto a hot frying pan but I may have never paid enough attention to notice this before. The recall was done over a year ago, actually it was closer to 2. I have driven the car for about 125 miles since the cams and BSR, and I have not noticed a dip in oil, yet.

I wonder if when Loctite gets hot, if it has a smell as the secondary intake runners were done with Blue. I doubt the valves would get all that hot though. Would what was used to redo the seal after cracking open the engine cause this smell? I realize oil or something may have been spilled to cause a smell, but 2 rainstorms and 125 miles later, the smell is still around, and it is comming from the front of the engine and can be smelled through the grill.

Does hissing mean the pre cat is going or is gone? The pre cat has always had the pinging of the heatshield since day 1, so I never fretted over it. If it is starting to die, is the damage already done and I am out of an engine and a warranty? If the precat dies soon after a few installs from ironic timing, the Magnuson Moss might actually screw me over. Think I should park the car and/or go extra super easy until the header comes? Any other ideas? The most recent changes were cams, loctite on screws, bsr, oil and filter change (filter is on tight and not leaking), and crank pully.
 

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I would not drive the car untill you get the header, if that is possible. If not I would drive it very conservativly.

The pre-cat problem has always been more frequent in modded cars. For example, I know 4 people with SE-R's (spec v's) only one had any problmes, and his car is modded (more so than anyone elese 2 stock 1 lightly modded, 1 heavy on the mods). I would say that somewhere along the mod chain something happens (be it more air, faster revs, running richer, etc) that seems to make the precat more prone to failure.

You could pull your plugs and have a look at them, they can sometimes indicate if you are burning oil... post pics if you need help. Also they should indicate if peices of precat have been sucked into the cylanders.
 

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More info:
When you removed the balancer shafts, did you use bolt cutters to cut the chain?
Also, how much oil did you fill after the BSR?

You may be able to tell if the pre-cat is breaking down by removing the midpipe and then tapping on the barrel of the header to see if particles fall out. If there is loose dust in there the chances are that backpressure is forcing that stuff back up into your engine.
 

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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #5
BSR was cut w/ bolt cutters. About 5.5 quarts of oil. And I have been told that when the header is removed that powder indicates the precatalyst is failing. I will pull plugs soon. The oil is still at the same level.
 

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NickZac said:
The oil is still at the same level.
good to hear your not burning any oil. I would suggest taking the header off ASAP and giving it a look over. If its in the early stages of breaking apart then you might not have any engine damage. When are you going to get to the header?
 

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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #7
I suppose I will order one tonite. I have been waiting on an AEBS, but I dont think it is gonna happen.
 

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If you really think that you might have a problem, I would start by pulling plugs and looking them over for damage, and signs of oil in the cylanders. Next I would suggest pulling the header and looking at it, just holding it upside down and shaking should indicate if the precat is breaking up. Finally I would definatly order some kind of after market header, even if it is only a temporary one till you get what you want. Good luck and keep us posted... take pics if you can.
 

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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #9
Update!

My shop ordered me a header today, which will arrive and be put on the car sometime in the next week.

The car is running normal, has not lost oil, and the pre cat has quieted down.

I want to pull the plugs but our garage is being painted (cant even walk in it), and I generally work or am at school until past dark. Hopefully, the rings arent screwed as I am not elgible for a new engine. I suppose the only real options are to buy a new engine, or rip the head, chain and install new rings.

IIRC, isn't there a fiber optic camera that can actually look at the inside of your car? Anyone know much about this or who has the resources to do this?
 

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You'll know when you pull the header, and the plugs (as I have been saying) should also give you a clue. No need to waste more money on it... unless you want to do a compression test, which is what I would suggest if you dont feel that looking at the old header and the plugs is enough
 

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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #11
Well I took a swift kick to the nuts today. I got my car back from Nissan for the 30k service; I am at 29,4xx miles. I did not have them do the oil change as I only have about 2500 on my current run of synthetic. I checked the oil when I got home and I was missing about 3/4 of a quart. Prior to the last few hundred miles I was not burning any oil at all though. :wtf: The same Amsoil filter was on and it did not appear that they did change the oil so I am assuming that the missing oil was burnt. I also smell oil burning (or something like that; it is not coolant) although I am not smoking any color and nothing is being admitted through the exhaust except some water which is normal for the car. It is not an oil leak either as I checked. I'll have to pull the plugs again and the header has not arrived yet over a month later from my last post. When the header gets pulled, I'll know for sure how fucked I am. Nissan told me I have no warranty on my engine at all so if the motor is shot, I may just sell the whole damn thing and buy another car.

It is frustrating when you use nothing but premium parts and the OE Nissan parts are the ones that cause the failure, yet the better parts void the warranty. I do not know how much the Magnisun Moss will help me, but the QR25DE and the B15 as a whole has some serious design flaws.
 

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PB JELLY TIME!
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No offense, but you knew the pre-cat was deadly for the car. Instead of waiting months and months for an aebs, I would have just gotten a cheaper (obx, ssauto, megan) and replaced it when/if the AEBS came out again, and buy that one. Even if you lost money this way, you could have saved your engine (if infact it is messed up, which may not even be the case) You installed all this stuff, I am sure it takes a while for everything to settle and feel right again.

Good luck to you though, I hope everything works out in your luck.
 

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PowerdBySteamtoCookRice
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Zac said:
Well I took a swift kick to the nuts today. I got my car back from Nissan for the 30k service; I am at 29,4xx miles. I did not have them do the oil change as I only have about 2500 on my current run of synthetic. I checked the oil when I got home and I was missing about 3/4 of a quart. Prior to the last few hundred miles I was not burning any oil at all though. :wtf: The same Amsoil filter was on and it did not appear that they did change the oil so I am assuming that the missing oil was burnt. I also smell oil burning (or something like that; it is not coolant) although I am not smoking any color and nothing is being admitted through the exhaust except some water which is normal for the car. It is not an oil leak either as I checked. I'll have to pull the plugs again and the header has not arrived yet over a month later from my last post. When the header gets pulled, I'll know for sure how fucked I am. Nissan told me I have no warranty on my engine at all so if the motor is shot, I may just sell the whole damn thing and buy another car.

It is frustrating when you use nothing but premium parts and the OE Nissan parts are the ones that cause the failure, yet the better parts void the warranty. I do not know how much the Magnisun Moss will help me, but the QR25DE and the B15 as a whole has some serious design flaws.
Hope nothing goes wrong man, id be horrible if ya had to get another new engine.
 

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Zac, As I said before, you need to pull the stock manifold. If the precat is broken up you are sucking it in to the engine everytime you drive. I also suggested taking it off to have a look. This is just the downside to modding out cars. I feel you in the sense that it was the stock part that failed. But you have changed the way the engine gets air, and re-tuned (i think), so you have to understand that will increase the chance of precat failure.

Someone made a good point, a $160 OBX would have been a good choice a month ago when you first started to notice the problem. But you should also have pulled the plugs and header at that point to check.

On a side note, you could be burning oil for other reasons. You cant be totaly sure until you pull the stock header. You could get a compression check to verify that the pistons are okay. I'll say it again for the umteenth time, "folks you've got to pull parts and check them if you suspect failure" driving around with parts you "think" are going bad, is just a bad plan.

Good luck to you Zac, I hope that there is not a problem. Just top it off with oil and start keeping an eye on it. Oh, and quit driving it till you pull the header to check or get a new one.
 

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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #15
Plugs still look fine. I havent the tools on me to pull the header but I am hoping the header arrives Mon-Tues. It was in a Group Buy...
 

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Zac said:
Plugs still look fine. I havent the tools on me to pull the header but I am hoping the header arrives Mon-Tues. It was in a Group Buy...
Glad the plugs look okay, that is a good sign. Hopefully you get that header on Mon-Tue.
 

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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #17
Well the header and downpipe went on today. I didnt have time to get the cat welded in so I am running straight and throwing a SES which is not suprising.

The downpipe had no dust in it, the header had none either except a tid bit of black dust of which appeard to be carbon from normal wear and tear.

The car is loud as could be, but it isnt like I didnt expect it and now I am fully bolted and more :D
 

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Not Anymore.
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Discussion Starter #19
I figured emissions. A ghetto sim doesnt eliminate the SES if you are running str8 pipe does it?

IIRC Steve mentioned some sort of device that will trick the O2 sensors, but it was different than a simple sim.
 

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PB JELLY TIME!
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Zac said:
I figured emissions. A ghetto sim doesnt eliminate the SES if you are running str8 pipe does it?

IIRC Steve mentioned some sort of device that will trick the O2 sensors, but it was different than a simple sim.
The ghetto sim does exactly that. Eliminate the SES light if you have no cat. It moves the sensor up so that it doesnt read as much of the dirty air.
 
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