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Discussion Starter #1
Simple question...: how do I know which is "cylinder no. 2" ???

Thanks for any help.

Marc
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After some research, I deduct that the no. 1 cylinder is the first one from the timing belt and then, in order, 2-3-4.

Let me know if I'm right !

Thanks.

Marc
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, thanks. This helps.

Thought I had an ignition issue with the misfires, but turns out I have leaking head gaskets. Have to say that at 330 000 km, can't expect to have no issues at all...!!!

Prestone is leaking into the cylinders which explains the hiccups at startup but that go away after 5-10 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now exploring the "head gasket sealers" as a possible $30 solution VS a $1500 head gasket replacement solution...!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestion.

I've done some research and I've finally decided on K-Seal. I know a lot of sites, including our dear Scotty..., recommend other sealers, but K-Seal is just about the only one that is both simple to use and has a relatively high number of positive reviews on different sites. When I see a site recommending only ONE product, I get the impression it's more an advertisement than an actual review...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After one application of K-Seal and another one (I forget which), my head gasket leaking engine is still... well, leaking through the head gaskets...!! Other than having a bit of air (exhaust fumes...!) in the cooling system (not THAT much really), I wonder how long I could go on like this...??? For now, the engine does not overheat at all, and stays fairly cool. Only thing I have to avoid is driving for more than a few days without checking the coolant level. Other than that, for now, all is good.

Does anyone have experience running this engine for a long time with such a head gasket leak ??

Thanks for any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi,

As stated in my post, there is a lot of air (exhaust fumes ??) in the coolant. I take all of the air out of the cooling system. Then, I drive for ten minutes and when I get back, there is still a lot of air in the system. There is so much air, that if the engine idles only, there is no heat in the heater core. Just too much air in the system. I need to idle to at least 2000 rpm for there to be heat in the heater.

I was just wondering: if I regularly take the air out and make sure there is always sufficient coolant, could I just keep going like this, until I get the $$$ to get the gasket job done (or the courage and tools to try it myself...) ??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, to be honest, I'm not sure the oil is clean as I haven't really checked the oil recently.

I've since bought and have been using an old 2000 Camry and am still deciding whether it's by by for the X-Trail or if I want to put more ressources in it...???
 

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Hi,

As stated in my post, there is a lot of air (exhaust fumes ??) in the coolant. I take all of the air out of the cooling system. Then, I drive for ten minutes and when I get back, there is still a lot of air in the system. There is so much air, that if the engine idles only, there is no heat in the heater core. Just too much air in the system. I need to idle to at least 2000 rpm for there to be heat in the heater.

I was just wondering: if I regularly take the air out and make sure there is always sufficient coolant, could I just keep going like this, until I get the $$$ to get the gasket job done (or the courage and tools to try it myself...) ??
The danger of putting more "stop leak" product into the coolant system is that there's a much greater chance of plugging up the radiator core. Now you have the added cost of replacing the radiator. Also if you're out on the road when the radiator finally decides to get plugged up, the greater danger is the overheating of the engine which can then very easily fail thus requiring an engine replacement.

As far as doing a head gasket replacement job yourself, if you don't have enough experience in auto mechanics, I suggest you have a shop perform the job. Head gasket replacement is a somewhat major effort; there's also the camshaft timing involved that needs to be precise; a lot of "shade tree wannabees" don't do it correctly and then wonder why the engine doesn't start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The danger of putting more "stop leak" product into the coolant system is that there's a much greater chance of plugging up the radiator core. Now you have the added cost of replacing the radiator. Also if you're out on the road when the radiator finally decides to get plugged up, the greater danger is the overheating of the engine which can then very easily fail thus requiring an engine replacement.

As far as doing a head gasket replacement job yourself, if you don't have enough experience in auto mechanics, I suggest you have a shop perform the job. Head gasket replacement is a somewhat major effort; there's also the camshaft timing involved that needs to be precise; a lot of "shade tree wannabees" don't do it correctly and then wonder why the engine doesn't start up.
Thanks for the suggestions. As I've already put in two helpings of gasket sealant, I don't plan on putting any more. No, I'm not an experienced mechanic, but I'm definitely mechanically inclined. There's a two part video on Youtube that's almost two hours long that details the job step by step on exactly the same engine as the X-Trail (same year and all), so I might give it a go, knowing full well there's at least a 50-50 chance I'll screw it up. At this point, if nothing else, attempting the job myself would give me valuable experience working on an engine in depth. Having a working X-Trail at the end of it all would be a bonus...! Right now, it's basically worthless and I don't want to spend the $1500+ in garage it would cost to do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh and, by the way, I checked the oil, this morning and it definitely has engine coolant in it...!
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. As I've already put in two helpings of gasket sealant, I don't plan on putting any more. No, I'm not an experienced mechanic, but I'm definitely mechanically inclined. There's a two part video on Youtube that's almost two hours long that details the job step by step on exactly the same engine as the X-Trail (same year and all), so I might give it a go, knowing full well there's at least a 50-50 chance I'll screw it up. At this point, if nothing else, attempting the job myself would give me valuable experience working on an engine in depth. Having a working X-Trail at the end of it all would be a bonus...! Right now, it's basically worthless and I don't want to spend the $1500+ in garage it would cost to do the job.
Good for you! You'll gain a lot knowledge/experience by doing it yourself. Make sure you have a good METRIC tool set and have a torque wrench. As you go along with your repair, if you run into any questions/problems, just post them here and any one of us will try to help you. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Ok, thank you very much ! I'm off for almost two weeks at the end of October / beginning of November, so that's when I'll either plunge... or take it to the scrap yard... or plunge and THEN, take it to the scrap yard !! hahaha...

Here's the video I'll be following if I decide to go ahead with the repair in case any are curious:

Marc
 
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