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Hi all...I am new to the forum...I had my 99 Nissan Sentra GXE inspected in Dec..the car has (now dont laugh) a little over 30K miles on it..as you can see, I dont drive around much...I bought it 4 yrs ago with 8K on it..!! Sweet deal!

Anyway, after the inspection, I was told brakes, and muffler were bad, I knew about the muffler had those repaired..now, the jerk who did the inspection, never reset my radio and I did note minor problems when I tried to reset it..the question here is my "service engine soon" light came on yesterday morning...could this yo-yo have screwed up something in the inspection process? I live in NY State so the inspection includes that emmission ck which I was told by a different mechaninc that I might not pass because of the fact that I dont drive around much. The mechanic was supposed to change my oil and forgot so I had to take the car back. I hope he didnt screw something up!
HELP!!
 

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Mofo
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What you need to do is pull the code and find out what it is.
Click here to lean how to do it yourself.
If you dont think you can do this yourself. Have autozone, pepboys, or kregan do it for you with a scanner.
Im guessing that he forgott to plug a sensor back in, but it might not even be related to him at all. Get the code then come back here ans let me know what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the help...

Nostrodomas said:
What you need to do is pull the code and find out what it is.
Click here to lean how to do it yourself.
If you dont think you can do this yourself. Have autozone, pepboys, or kregan do it for you with a scanner.
Im guessing that he forgott to plug a sensor back in, but it might not even be related to him at all. Get the code then come back here ans let me know what it is.
well the PEP Boys around here charges $78...so I sucked it up and called the dealer ..the mechanic there suggested that I get a new battery...and since the cold crank was at just over 50% when I got the inspection, I am gonna start with that and see what happens...
 

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First find a autozone they are free, second, although you might need a battery that alone will not set off a check engine light. theres not much to go on to offer anymore help. I dont understand the guy who told you about the possiblity of not passing due to the fact that it isnt driven much.
 

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no offence but are you a female? if so, it sounds like they may be trying to take advantage of you. them telling you you may not pass because you don't drive allot?! also, i have a 99 as well, with 120k miles on it, and i still to this day have the stock exhaust, it has a bit of rust on the bottom but nothing show stoping. also, i am just going to replace the brakes this weekend. you should read up on this site and become more car savvy. that way they wont over charge you, the dealer wanted me to pay $400 to change my brakes, i just bought a "big brake kit" for $180. <i saved $220!) also don't let autozone try to charge you for a code reading, IT IS 100% FREE AT ALL AUTOZONES, they may even clear it for you (i dont think they are suppost to though). remember the number then come back here and tell us what it is.
 

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if you get the code read at autozone, come back here and tell us what the code is so we can verify that it's correct.
 

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MagicPie said:
... I dont understand the guy who told you about the possiblity of not passing due to the fact that it isnt driven much.
No shit! And I just replaced my brake pads/resurfaced
rotors, after 53,000+/- miles, and the ripoff at BF Goodrich
said I still had 10%, at least. At 30,000 miles??!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
200SushiX said:
No shit! And I just replaced my brake pads/resurfaced
rotors, after 53,000+/- miles, and the ripoff at BF Goodrich
said I still had 10%, at least. At 30,000 miles??!!

Yes I am a female and I definitely dont take offense...I wish there were more guys like you..who dont rip us off..maybe I should have ditched the sweats and put on a short skirt and boohoohoo'd my way thru it...

Fortunately, my bro does some work..he did my last brake job for me..and if (stupid me) knew that the rear brake needed attn..I would have had him slap the back ones on...but no...the muffler was a done deal..I knew I would have to buck up the $$ ....I'll ck out the autozone and see what gives....I was a little surprized that the dealer's mechanic didnt try to "con" me into coming in to give it a look for the "usual" fee!! I do have coverage on my emissions systems...I wish I knew more abou this shit...I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty..after all, I do hunt and fish!!
 

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fishing is the greatest thing ever..........

check out www.sentra.net <that site is very helpful for the beginner. just search around in the b14-ga16de sections <im guessing you have the ga) and you will learn a scientific "ass load."
 

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ok...I made it to Autozone....the code was "P0141" according to the guy who checked it...he said it was the "second in line hit for the oxygen sensor"
He also said this could cost from $45-over$400...nice ball-parking it eh? He also said when I got it taken care of, he could re-set it for me.

Now, if I went to the dealer, wouldnt they try to drill me for a diagnostic along with whatever it is?

1.6pete said:
fishing is the greatest thing ever..........

check out www.sentra.net <that site is very helpful for the beginner. just search around in the b14-ga16de sections <im guessing you have the ga) and you will learn a scientific "ass load."
 

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Whoa...
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what area of ny are you in, and what shop are you going to that "forgets" to do stuff like change your oil??? if you werent observant you might be putting 6000 to9000 miles on your oil! you need to find a new shop
 

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scarlet3ej said:
ok...I made it to Autozone....the code was "P0141" according to the guy who checked it...he said it was the "second in line hit for the oxygen sensor"
He also said this could cost from $45-over$400...nice ball-parking it eh? He also said when I got it taken care of, he could re-set it for me.

Now, if I went to the dealer, wouldnt they try to drill me for a diagnostic along with whatever it is?
P0141 is a malfunction in the rear oxygen sensor heater. The causes are either a poor connection or the oxygen sensor is defective.

Replacing the rear oxygen sensor is not difficult. It is located behind the catalytic converter, so the car must be put on jack stands. Disconnect the cable, unscrew the sensor using a socket made for the job, wipe anti-seize paste on the threads of the new sensor, screw it in and tighten it, replace the cable, done!

Lew
 

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OK people Im gonna try to warn you ALL about a common misconception... Being in a shop for the past coupel of years ive found that ALOT of times the rear O2 sensor isnt actually bad.... The rear O2's job is to monitor the difference in temp between the front of the convertor and the back... Most... NOT ALL of the time we find a clogged Catalytic Convertor as the actuall problem... Some vehichles actually have a code for Insufficent Catalyst flow.... Id suggest getting a convertor test before replacing the convertor... Most shops should charge about $40 give or take.. What they do is blow a 2 small holes in the exhaust (1 before and 1 after the Catalyst) and measeure the pressure difference between the 2.. If theres a Noticeable difference between the 2 your Catalyst is bad... This could definetly be the case as your car isnt driven much and Im ASSUMING probably goes on Alot more short trips than Long... Short trips are harder on a vehichle as Not everything gets up to full operating temp and some deposits and bi-products dont get fully disposed of... Hope this helps :cheers:
 

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nastynissan said:
OK people Im gonna try to warn you ALL about a common misconception... Being in a shop for the past coupel of years ive found that ALOT of times the rear O2 sensor isnt actually bad.... The rear O2's job is to monitor the difference in temp between the front of the convertor and the back... Most... NOT ALL of the time we find a clogged Catalytic Convertor as the actuall problem... Some vehichles actually have a code for Insufficent Catalyst flow.... Id suggest getting a convertor test before replacing the convertor... Most shops should charge about $40 give or take.. What they do is blow a 2 small holes in the exhaust (1 before and 1 after the Catalyst) and measeure the pressure difference between the 2.. If theres a Noticeable difference between the 2 your Catalyst is bad... This could definetly be the case as your car isnt driven much and Im ASSUMING probably goes on Alot more short trips than Long... Short trips are harder on a vehichle as Not everything gets up to full operating temp and some deposits and bi-products dont get fully disposed of... Hope this helps :cheers:
Well..I called the dealer...and talked to the mechanic there....
even tho I only have 32,000 miles on my 99 Nissan, it is "too old" to have any warranty on the emissions systems even tho' the 3-yr warranty covers up to 36,000 miles.....
So...let's do the math....as I predicted..he suggested (of course he did) that I have the diagnostic done..because of the fact that it may or may not be the O2 sensor...IF it is ONLY that O2 sensor, it will cost me $200 and dont forget to tack on that $65 for the diagnostic.....I asked him about that converter test but he said that the diagnostic would cover the whole deal...

Geez...maybe I'll take the bus to work and save myself the aggravation of beating up my car to get to work....and save the car for the highway...
 

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scarlet3ej said:
Well..I called the dealer...and talked to the mechanic there....
even tho I only have 32,000 miles on my 99 Nissan, it is "too old" to have any warranty on the emissions systems even tho' the 3-yr warranty covers up to 36,000 miles.....

If I'm not mistaken the government requires a 8-year/80k mile warranty on ALL emissions equipment. I haven't really had to use this, so I'm not real sure. Saw it in the owner's manual, try looking there. If the cat is bad, they'll have to replace it under the emissions warranty. THEN they'll try to sell you a "fix" for what killed the cat.
 

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scarlet3ej said:
He also said this could cost from $45-over$400...nice ball-parking it eh? He also said when I got it taken care of, he could re-set it for me.
WTF? what type of O2 sensor is $400!? if you learn how to do the job your self it could be a $60 job MAX. (assuming it is only the O2 sensor) got a BF? a none tooly BF that could accualy be some help? buy him a pizza and make him do the work :thumbup: id do it for a pizza lol.
 

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1.6pete said:
WTF? what type of O2 sensor is $400!? if you learn how to do the job your self it could be a $60 job MAX. (assuming it is only the O2 sensor) got a BF? a none tooly BF that could accualy be some help? buy him a pizza and make him do the work :thumbup: id do it for a pizza lol.
mmm pizza for work, i like that idea.
 

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Tavel said:
mmm pizza for work, i like that idea.
but if you buy it from autozone you may have to explain to them that its the secondary o2 sensor so they dont sell you the one for front end happened to me cause i wasnt the one who picked up i just cleaned out off the sensor and checked the converter and ran the code again and it was gone


Yeah pizza and beer are always a better combo though :cheers:
 

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..beer AFTER you work on the car :thumbup:
 

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nova73guy said:
If I'm not mistaken the government requires a 8-year/80k mile warranty on ALL emissions equipment. I haven't really had to use this, so I'm not real sure. Saw it in the owner's manual, try looking there. If the cat is bad, they'll have to replace it under the emissions warranty. THEN they'll try to sell you a "fix" for what killed the cat.
Curiosity killed the cat, didn't it? :fluffy:
 
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