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I have a 1995 Sentra GXE and is in the process of converting to rear discs. My Master Cylinder needs replacing so I want to switch right over to the Altima one. I know that I need the MC for the U13 (1993-1997) Altima SE with rear disc, but I don't know if it is the ABS or Non-ABS one. Does anyone know which one and what are the differences? Thanks.

HawaiianSentra
 
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I don't know if this will help you......but I have converted my 1994 B13 to NX2K front brakes (SMC x-drilled rotors, SMC ss brake lines, Axxis Pads and MT600 fluid) and the rear brakes to SE-R rear disc using all OEM parts. I had an SE-R m/c which did not work for one reason or another. So I was forced to use my stock m/c. To my surprise the brakes worked great! The peddle travel felt the same as it did before I swapped in the rear disc brakes. Like I stated before I'm not sure on a B14 if this will work. I do plan to swap in an Altima m/c soon. Hope this helps.
 
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When you do switch to the Altima MC, do you know if it is the ABS or non-ABS one?

Moku
 
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Not sure on that

You know I don't think that it matters really unless you have an ABS equipped car. Can anyone enlighten?
 
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Hi all,
I figured it out. It is the non-ABS one. The ABS one has only TWO out ports and the non-ABS one has FOUR. I think the ABS one has only two because they go to an external proportioning valve to control the front and rear brakes independently. The non-ABS one has the proportioning valve built into it. I put it in and it works great. Hope this helps everyone.

HawaiianSentra
 

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Big Brake with Big MC

Thanks for doing this research and shareing the info Moku! I could never find that little thing out. Great info. I would like to hear about your BBK update also.

Also, if you could explain about the installation a little bit, that would be helpful. How hard was it? I have seen a lot of metal lines going around and lots of other parts were blocking the way. Did you have to remove lots of other parts when you removed your old MC?

Mahalo
 
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That's it!

So that's why the SE-R m/c I have wouldn't work. Your right it did not have 4 outputs for the hard lines. But when I looked at my Altima's m/c it had 4 output hard lines and my Altima is non-abs equipped. Yea I to plan to swap in an Altima m/c soon. Great job!
 
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Here is how I changed my 1995 Sentra GXE Master Cylinder with one from a 1995 Altima (U13 (1993-1997)).

First, the difference between the ABS and non-ABS MC. On the ABS one, there are only two ports for the brake lines to connect to. On the non-ABS one, there are four ports, one port for each line to go to each wheel. The reason the ABS one only has two ports is because the proportioning valve is external as opposed to the built-in one for the non-ABS MC. I suppose this external proportioning valve is for when the ABS system is actually working under extreme braking. I don’t know if the MC is different from year to year on the U13, but I got the one that is the same year as my car. I don’t think that they are any different though from 1993-1997.

Alright here we go.

Things needed:
1. 10mm flare nut wrench (you might be able to get away with a regular 10mm wrench, but if you round off the nut you are SERIOUSLY screwed. Spending the $10 for the wrench will save you a bunch of headaches in the event that you screw up). If you are doing a BBK and are planning on using stainless-steel lines, you will need in anyways so it is worth the cost.

2. 12mm socket with about a six inch extension to unbolt the MC from the brake booster (I would guess that you can do without the extension, but it will take a heck of a lot longer.

3. 22mm wrench to remove the two hexagon extensions connected to the MC on one end and brake fitting on the other end.

4. Flat-head screwdriver (this will be used to pry the reservoir from the MC).

5. A fair amount of brake fluid.


1. Chalk your wheels as you will have no brakes in case your car starts to roll.

2. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

3. Disconnect the brake fluid sensor on the bottom end of the reservoir on the side facing the engine.

4. Disconnect the plugs that plug into the airbox and remove the airbox and put your air filter aside. Doing this makes life a lot better. Besides, now you have a little box to put your wrenches.

5. Using your flare-nut wrench, disconnect the four lines going into the MC. Cap the fittings as so fluid doesn’t leak. CAUTION: Brake fluid damages paint so have shop rags readily available to catch any fluid that leaks out. If fluid gets on your paint, wash it off ASAP.

6. If you look at the four ports that the lines go into, you will see that two ports connect directly to the lines and the other two ports have some kind of hexagon extension about 2 inches tall. Use your 22mm wrench and do what it takes to get that thing off. I made the mistake of taking off the MC before attempting to remove those things and man was it difficult. I don’t know if the torque necessary to remove those things will actually bend something, but I don’t think it will. Save those two things as you will be connecting it to your new MC.
7. Use your 12mm socket and extension and unbolt the two nuts holding the MC to the brake booster.

8. Have a rag handy and remove the MC from your car.

9. Drain the MC and reservoir as much as you can and wipe off what you can.

10. Using your flat-head screwdriver, pry off the reservoir from the MC. CAUTION: Be sure to pry in a manner that the tip of the screwdriver doesn’t damage the grommets directly connected to the reservoir. Actually, I don’t think it matters because the new MC has new grommets. Anyways, the reservoir is pretty snug in there so you might have to use two screwdrivers or something. Do one and then do the other.

11. Clean the reservoir with brake cleaner if available and let it dry to make is easy to work with when installing onto the new MC.

12. Take your new MC and remove the grommets where the reservoir will go. Coat the entire grommet with brake lube or clean brake fluid and reinstall it. This will make the reservoir go in easier.

13. Reinstall the reservoir onto your new MC. You are done with that part.

14. If you look at those two hexagon things where it screws into the MC you will see that there are rubber O-rings. Replace those with the ones that your new MC came with. On the paper that is with the O-ring, it says that the warranty is void if not used. Be sure to lube it up with brake fluid along with the threads before screwing it onto your new MC. I would guess that you have to use the same amount of torque to tighten as you needed to loosen so it might be easier to tighten it after you reinstall the MC.


Reinstallation:

15. Install the MC over the studs on the brake booster and finger-tight the nuts. You will tighten them later.

16. Thread the brake line fittings on the new MC. Since that MC is still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly so the fittings thread in easily. Tighten the fittings. (You will be loosening them one by one to bleed them so don’t make them too tight. Be careful not to strip them or fluid will leak out when you press on the brake and you will have no brakes.

17. Tighten the mounting nuts and torque them to 108-144 in/lbs.

This is where you need someone to help you to bleed the reservoir and lines.

18. Fill the reservoir with fluid.

19. Now have your assistant depress the pedal and hold it there.

20. Using your flare-nut wrench again, loosen one of the fittings and you will see air and fluid shoot out. (Have a rag there to catch the fluid coming out) Retighten the fitting and then tell your assistant to let go of the pedal. Wait about 5 seconds for the fluid to fill the MC and then repeat.

21. Keep doing it until ONLY Fluid shoots out with NO air.

22. Move onto the next fitting.

23. After you have done all four fittings, repeat the process to make sure that no air is left in the MC.

Your MC is now bled. Tighten the fittings completely. The pedal should be pretty firm. It will get a lot better after the lines are bled completely.

24. Bleed the lines to the wheels until no air is ejected started with the right-rear, then left-rear, then right-front and then left-front. It is easier to attach a clear piece of tubing to the end of bleed bolt so you can see air more easily. You can run the tubing from the bolt through the tire and into a container so you don’t have to lie under the car.

25. If the pedal feels is still a little spongy, bleed the lines again until it is firm.

26. At this time, you might want to adjust the free play of the pedal. It should only be 1/8 inch to 3/64 inch. Depressed height should be 3 inches for automatic and 3-1/3 inch for manual. Free height should be 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 for automatic and 6-1/4 to 6-1/2 for manual. The clearance between the pedal stopper and the brake light switch in 1/64 inch.


That should be it. Be sure to do some slow speed testing to make sure that everything is working. After your initial full force testing, checking your bleed bolt and fittings for leaks. If there are, tighten in down better, wipe it dry, do more testing, and check it again.

I think that should be it. I am still running stock rotors and calipers as I am waiting for my BBK mounting brackets, but it still works great. My rears are also drums still as I am waiting till a rear conversion kits becomes available.

I hope this helps you all as I know I was in need of it before I began my trial and error process. Reply to this post if you have any more questions so other can also learn.

Please inform me if I am missing anything and I will edit it.
 

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You did excellent job doing this write up. I think you should attatch some pictures with it and this is ready to go on NPM. Michael Young, If you see this post, what do you think?
 

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CarbonBlack200 said:
You did excellent job doing this write up. I think you should attatch some pictures with it and this is ready to go on NPM. Michael Young, If you see this post, what do you think?
Absolutly..... If you had pictures to go along with it we would run it.
 
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