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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know or think its possible to remove the taillights, and take off the rear glass from the housing (by sticking them in the oven, to melt the adhesive) and somehow remove the red dye/tint/color thats on the taillights? Or is the glass in the taillights dyed red??

I would love to have some clear tails, but they do not make them anymore.



 

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Whenever I got to a junkyard next, I'm going to pick me up a pair and experiment. Sometimes what you can do (depending on how they're made), is throw them in the oven for like 3-5 minutes at around 200-250 degrees adn then get some needle nose pliers and yank out the colored pieces...SOMETIMES. I'm going to try it with my outer yellow lense and see if it works, then I'll get back to you!
 

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yes you can do it ..there use to be a how to section on importfan that explains it

you break all the old plastic outta your tail lights
and then clean out the groves
get some plexiglass from home depot(they used the plastic from ceiling lights)
cut it to size and heat in the oven(just the plastic lense not the whole houseing)
then glue it in place
 

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ya the site is total different from the last time i was there it use to be just 1 guy doing it he would import any part you need from japan and stuff.. now it seems like it's a companys web page????? got me
 

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Dont break the tail lights. You can just remove all the wirings, and pop them in the oven at about 200* for a few minutes for the glue to melt. Then you can follow Mospeed's advice...but make sure to seal them up real good...or water will seep in...Silicone ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was thinking of getting some plexiglass, and putting it ontop of the old tails, and letting the heat, melt the plexiglass over the old light.
Basically a mold, but if I melt it on top of the light, the new plexiglass will be too big, and if I mold it from the inside, it'll be too small.

Or should I just try to mold it directly to the housing??
 

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I was thinking of getting some plexiglass, and putting it ontop of the old tails, and letting the heat, melt the plexiglass over the old light.


Basically a mold, but if I melt it on top of the light, the new plexiglass will be too big, and if I mold it from the inside, it'll be too small.



you could try to mold something under or over the tail light and then use that molded piece for the "master mold" for making the tail lights the correct dimension. hope this helps if you get it done i would like to see pics
 

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plexiglass..... How do you use plexyglass.. im sure it would have to be like.. hard at the end.. do you heat it, then like mold it, or is it a liquid? i might try to make some.. sounds kinda cool
 

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Discussion Starter #10
u ever seen plexiglass?
Its basically just Plastic Glass... that is kinda flexable

Im thinking its terribly hard to work with.. especially since it only comes in straight sheets.
My dad works w/ Plexiglass and ceramics, and he says, i would need an airtight chamber to work with, when molding pre-fabricated plexiglass.

Any other ideas but plexiglass
 

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I work with plexiglass and lexan. What you can do is either, find someone with a vacum mold, or use a heat gun to mold the plexiglass over the stock lense. Depending on how thick the glass is should impact how flexible it would be.

Do this buy a small sheet of 1/8th inch plexiglass. Take out you stock light completlly form the car. Take it to a clean work station. Cut a square big enough to cover the light by at least 2 inches. The take your heat gun, and start heating up the glass. At a certian temp you can begin to mold the glass over the stock light. Once you have a fit trim the edges. Then remove the stock lense. With the oven or whatever you can find to do it with. Place the molded glass over the removed lense, and trace around the edge of the stock lense. Trim the new molded glass. And see how it fits on the housing. If you need to remold a few places to get it to sit flush do so with the heat gun. Once everything fits well silicone the new glass lense onto the stock light housing. Mkaing sure to seal completlly. If you do not seal correctlly, you will get moisture into the housing, and youll have to do it all over again.
Some causions: When working with the galss, do not remove the protective sticker/paper. If you do and try working with the glass, you will end up scratcjing it up pretty bad.
When using the heat gun, be carefull. Do not heat it up to much. And try to distribute the heat evenlly. Keep the gun about 6 to 12 inches away from the glass. You can always heat it up more, but you cant fix a burnt prototype.
I think i would recomend using lexan instead of plexi, cause the plexi is more prone to scratching and caracking. Lexan on the other hand is almost indistructable, some tuff chit. And doesnt scratch as easy. Its a bit pricey, but the price is well worth it.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you guys try this and/or need and advise or help.
 
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