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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know this may not fit the forum if so I am sorry. It does however have the sr20de engine so i was hoping someone can help me. About 2 weeks ago i tried to crank the car and it click of course I thought stater. well then after a few hrs it crunk right up then it kept doing that like i could drive it and it runs good. But it would take 2 or 3 hrs to cool off. So I got my mechanic friend to look at it. He noticed that the battery post like the wire that holds all the power was loose so he soldered it and then it fixed the problem for like a week. Well the other night it did it again it clicked. But I won't ya'll to know that after he fixed it and before it messed up again i let a friend borrow my battery and his alternator was bad so I know he ran my battery down bad. So i got it tested and of course it was dead. So I got a new battery and now it still clicks. The mechanic looked at it again and noticed that maybe the ground wasn't holding good enough on the battery so he rerouted the ground that didn't fix the problem plzzzz help!!!! The car runs really good except when i cut it off and it takes 2-3 hrs to crank back up. Could someone tell me what would make it do that. Is there something that could be getting hot that would make it do that. Btw it clicks when it don't start. also the last time he just worked on it now my dash lights don't work and neither does my clock on my dash and I don't see a fuse to replace it. I checked all fuses. See before he messed with the ground it took 2 or 3 hrs to crank now it won't crank at all ever since the clock and the dash lights won't light up. All other lights work and all other stuff like sunroof, etc... work fine. Plzzzzz help. I was thinking it was the starter but the car has crunk 100 times since the 1st time it clicked so I am assuming the starter is fine just either something like a relay or switch or fuse holding it back. I got a 96 infiniti g20 but it has a older rebuild engine with 80k miles on it. Plzzzz help!!!!! what could make the clock, and the dash lights stop. Also i rerouted the ground back to its original position just incase that had something to do with it.... Plzzzz someone help it is driving me crazy!!!!!!!
 

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I should be azRS13...
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Best way to test the starter is to get under the car, find the starter, and give it a few good hits with a wrench or something hard... If it starts right up then its your starter... if not then Its electrical... FYI this isnt a fix its just to know if your starter is bad... if it does start then replace it...
 

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Sup man,I hav a friend goin through the exact same thing now in his 93Integra ( i hate hondas,like locusts they are,I mean for sheer reliable its a wonderful car but quit tryin to race the damn things,rice on wheels,jus take it to the grocery store like your spose to,way the hell off topic) and it started once he upgraded to MSD distributer.He went through the same crap you went through,would try to start it,it would click,then we would sit in the fuckin parking lot for like an hour and it would crank right back up.He put his stock distributer on and it went away,jus like that...
 

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The car runs really good except when i cut it off and it takes 2-3 hrs to crank back up. Could someone tell me what would make it do that. Is there something that could be getting hot that would make it do that. Btw it clicks when it don't start. also the last time he just worked on it now my dash lights don't work and neither does my clock on my dash and I don't see a fuse to replace it. I checked all fuses. See before he messed with the ground it took 2 or 3 hrs to crank now it won't crank at all ever since the clock and the dash lights won't light up.
Several things to check:
- What may be happening is the starter is getting "heat soaked" and the result is either the armature windings or the field windings are getting shorted; then after the starter cools down the shorts go away.
- The starter solenoid may be failing after it gets hot.

Since the mechanic messed with the ground connections, you need to find out what he did or just have him fix what he may have screwed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
New info about the infiniti g20

The mechanic came back over and said its not the starter clicking. Well the battery was checked and dead so we installed a new battery problem was the neg ground didn't reach so he regrounded it to the main ground on fender wall. Somehow between messing with stuff a few fuses blew the engine control 1 fuse and the tail lamp fuse. Well to make a long story short we replaced those fuses then since it was cold and the battery sat out for sev days like 3 or 4 we gave it a boost with a jumper cable. The car cranked right up. Now here is the kicker we let it run with the booster cable for about 10 mins. Then cut the car off then tried to crank it and it clicked. Now the car won't even start even after sitting hrs or even days. It doesn't do anything. He said it has to be a relay or sensor somewhere on it thats stopping it. I was told to unhook the crank sensor and try and crank it that didn't work. So I bought a OBD 2 tool and then noticed that even though the car is a 96 the engine is a earlier model. Could someone give me some advice of some things that would make it do nothing when I turn the key. 1 min it cranked right up like everything was fine the next nothing. There is 2 clicks one is from the abs on the passanger fender wall and the other is from the fuse box like the relays he said its suppose to do that so that it holds all the power and sends it to the starter. The starter is not clicking something is stopping it from even recieving the signal. Is it a relay or sensor that could be stopping the car from cranking?? Thanks alot! this is driving me mad!!!!!! him to and he is ASE certified
 

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You may still have a ground problem. The battery negative grounding cable is heavy gauge. On most cars the grounding strap between the engine block and the chassis is a much smaller gauge; not meant to carry a high starting current. If that's the case with your car's setup, then buy a longer battery cable and connect it back to the engine block where it belongs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
car won't start

The mechanic already used a gauge wire he said is capable of holding 100amps current. It is grounded to the firewall main ground instead of the reg ground spot. My problem is even when we regrounded it the car did crank 1 time it ran then we cut it off and tried to recrank it and it wouldn't crank. So the ground had to of been good enough right?? I mean like the way he regrounded it? Please advice and could it be a relay or sensor stopping it from cranking?? I tried unhooking the crank sensor because i was told if it was bad it wouldn't let it start but still the car didn't start. I even bought a OBD 2 tester but it didn't fit. Does nissan use something special to test it.
 

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how is the distributor, cap rotor, plugs , wiress>?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
G20

The plugs were recently changed and the wires were good so no need to change the cap and button im sure could use a tune up well changed. But would that stop the car from doing anything. I mean it does nothing when I turn the key. I hear 2 clicks one comes from the abs and the other from the fuse box. The starter doesn't even get fire something is preventing it from even receiving the signal to fire. Would a sensor do this?? Also I think it has something to do with about 2 weeks ago i would have to wait to hrs for the car to cool down before it would crank i think whatever was going out finally went out. Please help!!!
 

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I had the same problem with my 200sx se-r when it reached 120k. since its sr20 like yours. we most likely have the same starter. However our sr20's are different from sr20s found in 240SX/Silvia/S12 200SX so we're both in wrong forum catagory- haha...anyway, All my electrical worked fine, the started was just clicking, tried tapping at it w screwdriver -didnt work so just ended up replacing starter. and works fine.
What did you do in the 2-3 hrs before your engine finally started? waiting around? or constantly cranking it? I read you have to wait 15-20 seconds between each crank of the ignition to give it enough time to cool. starters are sensitive to damage from overheating.
My friends 97 Maxima had somewhat simalar problem. battery would constantly drain. but alternator has been serviced. we jumpstart it. engine would not turn over. Mechanic said wiring/ electrical prob - they would have to find where exactly the current is shorting out.

(I probably said things here you already knew, but if you didnt, I hope this info adds to your research)
 

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I don't have an FSM for an Infiniti but most Nissan cars with an M/T have a clutch interlock switch and an interlock relay. With an A/T, an inhibitor switch is used. These could be causing your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update

I fixed that problem. It was the starter my boy took it off and rebuilt it. ok new problem i keep gettin codes like on my check engine light. 1 sec it will be like 11 then it will be 55. then it will be 14. etc... also will a crank sensor make my car start then imediately stop then cut off. if i hit the gas like put it past 3rpms then it will idel down to normal and stay running. what could be makin it do that?? and u think the codes r going crazy because my ecm is going out??? or do you think since i used a smaller ground wire it ain't gettin enough ground on terminal 5 to support all the electronics
 

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Looks like you still may be having an intermittent grounding problem. Check all the engine ground connections for possible oxidation and/or loose bolts.
 
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