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I hate to hear my car make a loud knocking/rattling noise when I drive. I know it's coming from the type of gas that I use. But, I thought, the higher octane (93) one uses, the better it is for your car. I've tried all sorts of treatments to "clean" and "fix" the problem, but it's not working. Is octane 93 the wrong type of gas level to use?
 

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gas shouldn't make a difference unless you have advanced your timeing. How often do you change oil and how hard are you on your car? You could have spun a bearing or something else internal could be wrong. Whatever it is it doesn't sound good and you made need to do a rebuild.
 

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Hey Mikerica,

Doesn't sound like a gas issue to me. We have 2 1995 B13 Sentra's (I live in Canada and the car was made through 1996).
Anyway...it sounds as if your timing chain guides are worn.


Olive Sentra: 186,000Kms (110,300miles)
Teal Sentra: 197,000Kms (116,800miles)
Problem happened on the Olive sentra, my mom's, car first.

Do you hear a constant rattle, especially when you let off the throttle?
If so, chances are your guides are wore and the timing chain is slapping against the side of the engine. If this is the case, STOP driving the car NOW. Eventually the chain will wear a hole in the engine wall and cause an oil leak. It cost us $1400 CDN to fix. The same thing is beginning to happen on the other Sentra so it's parked in the driveway till we can afford to fix it.

Once the noise becomes annoying or you hear it constantly, you may only get another week out of the car before it breaks on you.

$1400 CDN to fix it when it breaks or $750 CDN to replace the guides before any major damage. Stupid thing is, the guides are made from plastic.

Check out this thread from www.nfimports.net for more information or a second opinion.
http://www.nfimports.net/cgi-bin/ikonboard/ikonboard.cgi?s=3d09d0f75e9bffff;act=ST;f=3;t=55 (this link to the nfimports thread will not work, it's now the advanced forums and I no longer have access to it, they changed it on everyone :(
Good Luck
 
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this knocking could be a couple of things! firstly the octane shouldnt matter to much as long as you havent tampered wiv ur timing! you motor sounds like its a little tired and worn out! ur bearings in ur conrods could be worn out! or it could be that ur using a to thinner oil! try using a thick oil! 20w 50 for example! this could prevent pistons rubbing on the bore and causing the bore to scratch! hopefully some answers are there! good luck!
 

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Hey Mikeria,

Let me know if you took it to a garage after to see what's wrong with it :)

As for Nobby's post, your bearings could be gone, although it would not make a ticking/rattling noise but the knocking like you said..perhaps...i'm not sure.

As for using 10W-40, 15W-50 or 20W-50, these oils are much too heavy. If using conventional base/crude/dino oil, they break down much faster, usually around 1600miles(or Kms, I'm not sure). Using 10W-40 or any oil where the range of viscosity is greater than 30 with dino oil, the polymers have to wind and unwind more from 10 (long strands- while cold) to 40 (short, tight strands- once hot). This causes the oil to break down faster.

I would suggest using 10W-30 Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic or SuperSyn oil as it doesn't break down near as fast or at all, compared to conventional oils, plus it won't gum up your rings or seals. Also, Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 is made for higher mileage engines.

I emailed Mobil 1 on what oil I should use for my car that requires 5W-30 but use 10W-30 anyway, Mobil 1 suggest to use 10W-30. I bought 15W-30 (for high performance, turbocharged, supercharged engines) 5L at Wal-Mart for the deal(price of 4L) but decided to go with 10W-30 after all the information I have learned.

Note: If you do decided to get an engine flush at say...your local Costco for $20 before adding Mobil 1 synthetic or any oil your engine may start to leak as your seals or rings are deteriorated. Nothing lasts for ever and parts do eventually break. What has kept your seals from leaking at this point, in some cases, is the old dino oil residue and gum deposited there. Once this is washed away, it may begin to leak due to the seal breakdown from oil contaminants.

Anyway, this is just a rehash of what is on these 2 sites and I suggest that you read it, I learned a lot.

http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

I must point out, I am not a mechanic and have not tried this myself due to the cost of fixing any potential problems and switching from Conventional to Synthetic oil should/will not harm you engine.

Hope this helps,
Greg
 

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If you do decided to get an engine flush at say...your local Costco for $20 before adding Mobil 1 synthetic or any oil your engine may start to leak because they are deteriorated. This is because all the old dino oil residue and gum that has deposited on your seals and has kept them from leaking is washed away.


Does that mean that we shouldnt do a full flush while adding the synthetic oil. My car is high mileage and does alot of high speeds. i plan on doing a Valvoline Synthetic Blend change. Do i need to flush the entire engine before doing this or is it not neccessary?
 

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Well, it's a good idea to flush your engine, you may recover lost HP.
I'm considering it as the inside of my 95 GA16DE is all gummed up...I'll see if I can get a pic when I get home. I want the inside it to be cleaner as it may help performance from what I've heard and read.

The oil is the blood of the car(well...maybe engine coolant as well but that's not the topic) and it should be changed regularly and replaced with high quality products. Think about it this way...if you never exercised or ate healthy, imagine all the cholesterol and blockages in your blood and veins. The same is true for a car. It needs to be serviced and cleaned out often.

...I hope that makes some sesnse ;)


If you check out the links I left above, I think they mention something on that...not the health thing, but engine flushing.

After an Engine flush, it doesn't matter what type of oil you use but I would recommend synthetic for better performance. I'd stay away from Valvoline "Red Bottle" oil for older engines. It says it conditions your seals. What that is really doing is making them softer/swell and they are more likely to fall apart/deteriorate faster. If you did use Valvoline Higher Mileage oil and then switched to Synthetic it may keep your seals from leaking as the seals will swell, plus synthetic oil won't damage them...I'm only speculating, just a thought :cool:


The thing is if you do decide to get an engine flush, your seals may be wore/gone and it may start to leak oil...hence may. Or you may be lucky and have no trouble at all. Just prepare for the chance that it will.

I haven't tried this yet as replacing seals can be expensive (I think) or you can do it yourself (Just get a Haynes Autorepair guide).

If you try it, let me know, either post here or by email.
 

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so there is a possibility that my oil will leak because of my seals? cuz im only a college student and dont got that much money to spend on re-sealing my car. ( nor da tools ).

I'd stay away from Valvoline "Red Bottle" oil for older engines.


Red bottle oil? i dont understand. i was planning on using Valvoline the gold bottle colored synthetic blend motor oil. but the thing is that i dont know what kind of oil the previous owner used on this car. cuz this will be my first oil change for this car under my ownership and i want to do it right the first time. That why i thought of Valvoline Synthetic blend motor oil. As for flushing out my car i would love to do that but the problem is i dont want to reseal my engine cuz im guessing it would cost a grip of money
 

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I only meant the Valvoline oil the comes in the red bottles, it is their higher mileage oil for engines past 120,000K (says on the front, and details on the back). It's not a synthetic blend, just conventional. I wouldn't suggest using that.

Any oil will be fine for you car, conventional, blend and full synthetic. Some people don't think using pure synthetic oil in an older engine will do any good, but I can't see why not. Even though there is some engine wear, Synthetic oil may prevent further damage.

I know how you feel. I spent a year in University and am doing computer training for MCSE/MCDBA now and I finally have my first car. I have little money to fix anything that goes wrong. I would attempt and engine flush if I was working so I would have money to fix any thing that may go wrong but that will have to wait till Sept 02.
We had the Sentra, new, since 1995 but I had to share it with my 3 brothers and sister. Thankfully they're all moved out now and I can finally take care of the car the way it should have been. :D

Personally I'd use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil. It is perhaps the best oil on the market. If you already have the Valvoline bought, don't worry, 3000miles later you can change to Mobil 1 if you want too.

Only downside is that it cost more than conventional oil or blends but look at it this way...if you are changing the oil yourself, you are saving money on labour, therefore you can afford better quality oil. Best place to find Mobil 1 oil, here anyway, is Wal-Mart...decent price and often you can get the Value size(5L) for the price of a 4L.

I would also recommend using a Genuine Nissan oil filter. It has a back flow feature so the oil is kept in the engine to reduce damage on start up. There is a few threads in this forum about Nissan Oil filters if you look under B13 Chassie and GA16DE 1.6L sections.

That's just my opinion, hope this helps a little (post again if you need more info or email me) :cool:

Greg
 

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i had the same problem.my rod bearings were bad.take your oil pan off and see if you can move the rod end caps back and forth.if it moves, that the problem.
 

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there is a product called "seafoam" in a red and white can and to run 3000k miles with it in your engine oil, cleans you engine very nicely and most of the time gets rid of that knocking caused by lower grade fuels.
 
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