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I very highly recommend relocating the knock sensor to the firewall. I read from another post some other people left about it. I tried it gave it a couple days for the computer to adjust to the change. what i have noticed is the shudder when doing a hard shift from 1st to 2nd the engine used to shudder and lag. since relocating the knock sensor it no longer does this and it does have noticably more power along with an increase in throttle response. also it is lot smother through low end of the power band.


i run super (93 octane) gas already so im not too worried about detonation.

if anyone had any questions about how to do this mod just let me know. it only takes about 30 min
 

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knock sensor

Search b15sentra.net or thevborad.com both have detailed instructions on how the mod is done. If you do this mod remember to wrap the sensor in electrical tape to sheild it from other sources of vibration.

good luck:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok here is what yer gonna need a 10 - 13 mm wrenches and sockets. a floor jack, and jack stand a light about 8 inches of 12 or 16 gauge speaker wire, two loop wire ends, two wire ties a short bolt nut and lock washer, and good use of your left hand (cause thats all that fits up there.)

jack up the pas. side of the car and turn the wheels all the way to the left (the jack stand is kinda in the way to SAFELY hold the car.) what you are looking for is a round black sensor about the size of a silver dollar with a grey connector comming out at a 90 degree angle. it is about half way up the back side of the block with a long bolt running through it. once you found this (carefully) break the bolt loose (its in there pretty tight and you will break your nuckle) with a wrench cant get a socket in there.
now the gold bracket in front of the sensor has the vaccum controls for the variable intake on it. remove the bottom bolt.
now loosen the two top bolts ( you can just barely see them 10 mm) this will allow you to to remove the bolt for the sensor. disconnect the connector. now assemble the short bolt, nut, lock washer and wire end to the sensor. make sure that the loop end it on the side that faces the block. give it a good snug. now crawl under the car reconnect the sensor. there are three sets of hoses two a/c one p/s feel for a small bracket just above the p/s line it has a small hole in it this is where you zip tie the sensor to.
this being done noe rin the ground wire to the bottom bolt of the gold bracket and scre it back in snug it down and the same with the top two check to make sure the wires are clear of the drive shaft and exhaust. and yer done. should only take about 30 min. and give it a day or two to adjust (ecu) and you will notice a difference...
 
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I hope you guys who want to know how to do it know what it is. What the heck is a knock-sensor?
 
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The knock sensor "listens" for detonation and then retards the timing so that it can't damage the car. The problem with the one in our cars is that it is overly sensitive and retards the timing for things like fleas farting...

Just make sure that you only run 93 octane and it shouldn't be a problem.

If you are really paranoid, I think you can by an aftermarket sensor that will not retard timing but will light up a set of lights when it senses knocking, if that happens, back off the gas.

Hope that answers your question.
 
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well, by being attached to the block it can "hear" noises through the block when there is detonation. By moving it away from the block it can't hear detonation anymore, or any other noise for that matter...hense, no retardation.
 
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ok guys well, I just relocated my knock sensor last night. It was relatively simple except for that bracket. Gave us a little trouble. Then after we were completely finished. We stopped looked at each other with stupid looks on our faces as it dawns on us. We could have made this SOOOOOO much easier and easily reversable.

Knock sensor's can't be all that expensive, so buy another one. Leave the stock one bolted to the block and ground out the new one, Unplug the harness from the sensor on the block and pug it into the grounded one and there you go, took you all of 10 minutes to modify the new sensor and put it on the car.... beautiful part is you would only be under the car for like 5 minutes
 
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I felt so stupid after i was finished and cut, then I realized an easier way. uggg, well i hope the rest of you can benefit from my pain.... use your heads guys.

And tonight the balance shafts come out .... :)
Would have been last night but didnt have an E-14 female Torx socket, gotta go to sears during lunch and grab one
 
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specvracer said:
What exactly does removing the balance shafts do?

Removing of these useless parasites free's up horsepower to the wheels. Unlike a bolt on modification that increases horsepower output of a motor, this is just helping to get everything you can out of the stock motor. Removing these has dynoed up to an extra 8-10hp more at the wheels.
 
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Does removing the balance shaft void any type of warranty. What exactly are they? and where exactly are they located. How can u remove them? Thanx :D
 

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specvracer said:
Does removing the balance shaft void any type of warranty. What exactly are they? and where exactly are they located. How can u remove them? Thanx :D
removing the balanced shafts will void the warrenty on your motor. They are located in the oil pan under the #1 cylinder. The balanced shafts are there to soak up vibration caused by the up and down motion of the rods. They can be removed by taking off your oil pan cutting the drive chain and removing the shaft assembly, this also requirers tapping and plugging some oil journals.
:eek:
 
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