Parts
Bump...cause I'm still trying to get a definitive list of parts. Help please...
KA24E Timing Write Up 97 HB
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Anybody? I'm headed to the dealer and don't want to leave with more stuff...or not the right stuff.
Oh, I also just purchased a 2010 Frontier 4x4 V6. It's not my HB, but it will do
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231 Posts
Sorry, I haven't logged on in a while. I got mine from a local import part specialist. I'm pretty sure NAPA and Auto Zone sell the same kit. It includes upper/lower sprockets, chain, tensioner, guides, front main seal, a couple of other seals, etc.
Here's a link to the same kit, if not similar.
Store Locator | NAPA Online
Here's a link to the same kit, if not similar.
Store Locator | NAPA Online
Same Problem Tensioners.... any other ideas
Ok I replace the tensioner on the left and the (protective guild)one on the right about 2 years ago and 30k+ miles. The (Proctive guild) on the right has broken again or at least rattled the bolts holding it lose. Its proctetive guild is a crappy design a piece of metal covered in plastic but the plastic always breaks. The question is now how do i protect the timing chain cover on the right side without putting a new (protective guild) on? There has got to be a better design or idea to protect that right wall of the Timing Chain Cover.
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Oh the plastic piece on the metal guild on the right side you might as well just break it off its worthless. The problem is you have to have the guild or something protecting the right side or the chain will eventually eat thru the Timing cover.
Ok I replace the tensioner on the left and the (protective guild)one on the right about 2 years ago and 30k+ miles. The (Proctive guild) on the right has broken again or at least rattled the bolts holding it lose. Its proctetive guild is a crappy design a piece of metal covered in plastic but the plastic always breaks. The question is now how do i protect the timing chain cover on the right side without putting a new (protective guild) on? There has got to be a better design or idea to protect that right wall of the Timing Chain Cover.
Oh the plastic piece on the metal guild on the right side you might as well just break it off its worthless. The problem is you have to have the guild or something protecting the right side or the chain will eventually eat thru the Timing cover.
How did you get the cover off? :balls: I can't seem to get this thing off. I'm probably being to cautious, but I've removed every bolt visible and its still not loose. Should I take a rubber mallet to it and tap the cover or do I have to pull the crank seal first?Ok I replace the tensioner on the left and the (protective guild)one on the right about 2 years ago and 30k+ miles. The (Proctive guild) on the right has broken again or at least rattled the bolts holding it lose. Its proctetive guild is a crappy design a piece of metal covered in plastic but the plastic always breaks. The question is now how do i protect the timing chain cover on the right side without putting a new (protective guild) on? There has got to be a better design or idea to protect that right wall of the Timing Chain Cover.
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Oh the plastic piece on the metal guild on the right side you might as well just break it off its worthless. The problem is you have to have the guild or something protecting the right side or the chain will eventually eat thru the Timing cover.
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231 Posts
There are a couple of brackets attached to the front cover that actually go throught the front cover and bolt into the block/head. IIRC the PS bracket and the alternator bracket are this way IIRC. Front cover will not come off without these removed.
The front seal doesn't matter, it's attached to the front cover.
If you're sure all bolts are removed, tap it from the both sides with block of wood or a rubber mallet. You don't have to hit it like trying to drive a large nail in one blow, but by all means use a little power. The sealant really holds the cover on!!
The front seal doesn't matter, it's attached to the front cover.
If you're sure all bolts are removed, tap it from the both sides with block of wood or a rubber mallet. You don't have to hit it like trying to drive a large nail in one blow, but by all means use a little power. The sealant really holds the cover on!!
97 Nissan Pic
Great instructions.
But I have a problem. My husband has a 97 Nissan Pickup with 170,000 miles bought new, and some very loud noise sounds like clatter, I guess, hard to describe. I read thru the posts here and it sounds like a timing issue. Around 80,000 miles a clatter noise started just upon start up and then went away after a few secs. Never checked up on the sound don't know why he didn't. Always did recommended oil changes every 3000-3500 miles but he used mainly 10W-30. We lived in TX at the time.
Now here's the issue. We gave the truck to my son who lives a 1000 miles away. We now, live in AZ. He stupidly only did 3 oil changes in 80K miles. Don't worry he was severely chastised and we took the truck away. Now the clatter sound is still there on start up and it continues while idling not as loud but I can hear a definite ticking/clatter from the front of the engine that is constant. Any ideas on what to do now. Change the timing chain, tensioner etc. or could it be something else. I know the life of the engine was severely compromised due to the lack of oil changes but we would like to keep the truck until it dies. Or do I just do what some have recommended use a Nissan filter - change the oil and see what happens first. What oil should be used now 5W-30 or what? Help please, I am now in Tx and need to drive this truck to Az about 1100 miles. I hope I explained the problem well enough.
Great instructions.
But I have a problem. My husband has a 97 Nissan Pickup with 170,000 miles bought new, and some very loud noise sounds like clatter, I guess, hard to describe. I read thru the posts here and it sounds like a timing issue. Around 80,000 miles a clatter noise started just upon start up and then went away after a few secs. Never checked up on the sound don't know why he didn't. Always did recommended oil changes every 3000-3500 miles but he used mainly 10W-30. We lived in TX at the time.
Now here's the issue. We gave the truck to my son who lives a 1000 miles away. We now, live in AZ. He stupidly only did 3 oil changes in 80K miles. Don't worry he was severely chastised and we took the truck away. Now the clatter sound is still there on start up and it continues while idling not as loud but I can hear a definite ticking/clatter from the front of the engine that is constant. Any ideas on what to do now. Change the timing chain, tensioner etc. or could it be something else. I know the life of the engine was severely compromised due to the lack of oil changes but we would like to keep the truck until it dies. Or do I just do what some have recommended use a Nissan filter - change the oil and see what happens first. What oil should be used now 5W-30 or what? Help please, I am now in Tx and need to drive this truck to Az about 1100 miles. I hope I explained the problem well enough.
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310 Posts
With that few oil changes with that many miles, he may have damaged the rings and/or the valve seats. An engine flush may help...or change the oil around every 1000 miles for a few changes. If the noise doesn't go away, I would suspect cam and lifter issues. Good luck and keep us posted.
You where right!! I had to "tap" the hell out of it. I mean i was cautious..so cautious it too me a week before I hit the cover. I was afraid I was going to hurt something. LOL! Finally I laid into it a bit and a bit of water streamed down. That's when I knew i had it.
But now i'm stuck.....(next post)
He is right you do have to "tap" the hell out of it. I mean it was cautious..so cautious it too me a week before I hit the cover. I was afraid I was going to hurt something. LOL! Finally I laid into it a bit and a bit of water streamed down. That's when I knew i had it.
But now i'm stuck.....(next post)
now what.....
okay, got the cover off :givebeer:
The DIY states at this point i need to pay careful attention to how everything is set up. So i broke out my Cannon Rebel. I'm pretty sure I got the TDC correct. I found the two silver links. HOWEVER, the top link is not aligned with the circular notch on the cam sprocket. See here.....
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As far as the bottom, I'm not sure what the silver link should line up with...
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ADVISE?
Okay, so if this set up is indeed okay, someone let me know and I'll proceed with pulling all this off. I just wanted to be really sure before I went any further. Below are some additional pics.
I used a sharpy to mark where the spine was located. Probably overkill...
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And here is my baby in all her glory.
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okay, got the cover off :givebeer:
The DIY states at this point i need to pay careful attention to how everything is set up. So i broke out my Cannon Rebel. I'm pretty sure I got the TDC correct. I found the two silver links. HOWEVER, the top link is not aligned with the circular notch on the cam sprocket. See here.....
As far as the bottom, I'm not sure what the silver link should line up with...
ADVISE?
Okay, so if this set up is indeed okay, someone let me know and I'll proceed with pulling all this off. I just wanted to be really sure before I went any further. Below are some additional pics.
I used a sharpy to mark where the spine was located. Probably overkill...
And here is my baby in all her glory.
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231 Posts
Someone prior to you may have made a mistake with the silver links. You do not have to use them as a reference and still do a correct job, but I can't tell from here. If it's been running fine for a while I'm sure it's OK.
Anyway, make your own timing marks. Use a Sharpie and make a mark on both sprockets that also goes through a link. If you just replace the chain then count the # of links between your marks, if they're the same, you're good to go. If you have too many you have a little too much slack. It's easiest to count from the right side (no slack = less links to count).
Your new sprocket (if applicable) should have both timing "dots". I'd just use them with the silver links as a reference. Don't worry about the sprockets being misaligned - they are keyed - they will only install one way, just like the factory sprokets.
Anyway, make your own timing marks. Use a Sharpie and make a mark on both sprockets that also goes through a link. If you just replace the chain then count the # of links between your marks, if they're the same, you're good to go. If you have too many you have a little too much slack. It's easiest to count from the right side (no slack = less links to count).
Your new sprocket (if applicable) should have both timing "dots". I'd just use them with the silver links as a reference. Don't worry about the sprockets being misaligned - they are keyed - they will only install one way, just like the factory sprokets.
Okay gents,
It's taken me over a year, but I have gotten everything back on but radiator, fan, and belts. I'm at the point in the writeup where I should be able to start it up and wait for the "engine oil light to go off". However, I can't get it started. I believe it's a timing issue so could someone please give me some extended instructions on how to get the timing set correctly. When I turn the key forward, the engine turns over but there is no magic...it just turns over.
I've manually rotated the engine crank to line it up with the 5 tick marks on the crank pulley. However when the crank pulley is in what I think is the appropriate position (see below)
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....the distributor looks like this...
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I added the numbers to display where the firing pins are in reference to the actual distributor point
So if I've read everything correctly, when the crank is rotated to the proper timing mark (little spike sticking out from the block), the distributor should be aligned with the #1 spark plug position.
So how do I fix this? My gut is telling me to drop the oil pump and remove the distributor and try to put the two back together so the distributor will line up.
I know you guys can help so lay it on me. I'm SOO close I can feel it.
Also, in my trying to figure this out last night, I tested all my fuses inside the cab and my Starter Signal fuse would not "light up" no matter what position the key was in. I think I have everything hook up that should be hooked up at the point. Should I be worried about this? Changed the fuse..even though it looked fine...and still no light. So someone please help me!!!!!
Mack
It's taken me over a year, but I have gotten everything back on but radiator, fan, and belts. I'm at the point in the writeup where I should be able to start it up and wait for the "engine oil light to go off". However, I can't get it started. I believe it's a timing issue so could someone please give me some extended instructions on how to get the timing set correctly. When I turn the key forward, the engine turns over but there is no magic...it just turns over.
I've manually rotated the engine crank to line it up with the 5 tick marks on the crank pulley. However when the crank pulley is in what I think is the appropriate position (see below)
....the distributor looks like this...
I added the numbers to display where the firing pins are in reference to the actual distributor point
So if I've read everything correctly, when the crank is rotated to the proper timing mark (little spike sticking out from the block), the distributor should be aligned with the #1 spark plug position.
So how do I fix this? My gut is telling me to drop the oil pump and remove the distributor and try to put the two back together so the distributor will line up.
I know you guys can help so lay it on me. I'm SOO close I can feel it.
Also, in my trying to figure this out last night, I tested all my fuses inside the cab and my Starter Signal fuse would not "light up" no matter what position the key was in. I think I have everything hook up that should be hooked up at the point. Should I be worried about this? Changed the fuse..even though it looked fine...and still no light. So someone please help me!!!!!
Mack
First of all, I just wanted to say thanks for this write up. Definitely couldn't have done this on my own without it. It's very detailed, easy to follow, and must have taken quite some time to put together.
So, Thank You.
I cant say it went totally smooth though, my own ineptitude still factored in. I got from opening the hood to well over half way done in 2 full days, to the point in your tutorial where you suggest installing the oil pump and distributor, and noticed something amiss:
...
So, Thank You.
I cant say it went totally smooth though, my own ineptitude still factored in. I got from opening the hood to well over half way done in 2 full days, to the point in your tutorial where you suggest installing the oil pump and distributor, and noticed something amiss:
...
Sorry for the double post, I can imagine my previous post caused a bit of confusion.
I have never been so happy to have been so wrong.
I was so tired that when I tried to install the oil pump, and oil pump/distributor shaft, I thought that it wouldn't fit through the opening on the oil pump connects to, and that I had to take the newly sealed oil pan and possibly timing chain cover off in order to put it in.
:newbie:
Sorry to have spammed up this excellent thread on my first post. Still, thanks for the amazing write up!
I have never been so happy to have been so wrong.
I was so tired that when I tried to install the oil pump, and oil pump/distributor shaft, I thought that it wouldn't fit through the opening on the oil pump connects to, and that I had to take the newly sealed oil pan and possibly timing chain cover off in order to put it in.
:newbie:
Sorry to have spammed up this excellent thread on my first post. Still, thanks for the amazing write up!
Sweet, finally got it all back together and running well. That first 20 minutes or so was a bit horrifying though, but the terrible sounds went away and I got my truck back after 6 months of waiting for the funds to fix it! Yay!
Also found some 93 pathfinder buckets in excellent condition to replace the aging, incredibly uncomfortable bench seat.
Also found some 93 pathfinder buckets in excellent condition to replace the aging, incredibly uncomfortable bench seat.
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