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Bump...cause I'm still trying to get a definitive list of parts. Help please...
Anybody? I'm headed to the dealer and don't want to leave with more stuff...or not the right stuff.

Oh, I also just purchased a 2010 Frontier 4x4 V6. It's not my HB, but it will do :D
 

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Ok I replace the tensioner on the left and the (protective guild)one on the right about 2 years ago and 30k+ miles. The (Proctive guild) on the right has broken again or at least rattled the bolts holding it lose. Its proctetive guild is a crappy design a piece of metal covered in plastic but the plastic always breaks. The question is now how do i protect the timing chain cover on the right side without putting a new (protective guild) on? There has got to be a better design or idea to protect that right wall of the Timing Chain Cover.



Oh the plastic piece on the metal guild on the right side you might as well just break it off its worthless. The problem is you have to have the guild or something protecting the right side or the chain will eventually eat thru the Timing cover.
How did you get the cover off? :balls: I can't seem to get this thing off. I'm probably being to cautious, but I've removed every bolt visible and its still not loose. Should I take a rubber mallet to it and tap the cover or do I have to pull the crank seal first?
 

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There are a couple of brackets attached to the front cover that actually go throught the front cover and bolt into the block/head. IIRC the PS bracket and the alternator bracket are this way IIRC. Front cover will not come off without these removed.

The front seal doesn't matter, it's attached to the front cover.

If you're sure all bolts are removed, tap it from the both sides with block of wood or a rubber mallet. You don't have to hit it like trying to drive a large nail in one blow, but by all means use a little power. The sealant really holds the cover on!!
You where right!! I had to "tap" the hell out of it. I mean i was cautious..so cautious it too me a week before I hit the cover. I was afraid I was going to hurt something. LOL! Finally I laid into it a bit and a bit of water streamed down. That's when I knew i had it.

But now i'm stuck.....(next post)
 

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There are a couple of brackets attached to the front cover that actually go throught the front cover and bolt into the block/head. IIRC the PS bracket and the alternator bracket are this way IIRC. Front cover will not come off without these removed.

The front seal doesn't matter, it's attached to the front cover.

If you're sure all bolts are removed, tap it from the both sides with block of wood or a rubber mallet. You don't have to hit it like trying to drive a large nail in one blow, but by all means use a little power. The sealant really holds the cover on!!
He is right you do have to "tap" the hell out of it. I mean it was cautious..so cautious it too me a week before I hit the cover. I was afraid I was going to hurt something. LOL! Finally I laid into it a bit and a bit of water streamed down. That's when I knew i had it.

But now i'm stuck.....(next post)
 

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now what.....

okay, got the cover off :givebeer:

The DIY states at this point i need to pay careful attention to how everything is set up. So i broke out my Cannon Rebel. I'm pretty sure I got the TDC correct. I found the two silver links. HOWEVER, the top link is not aligned with the circular notch on the cam sprocket. See here.....


As far as the bottom, I'm not sure what the silver link should line up with...



ADVISE?

Okay, so if this set up is indeed okay, someone let me know and I'll proceed with pulling all this off. I just wanted to be really sure before I went any further. Below are some additional pics.

I used a sharpy to mark where the spine was located. Probably overkill...








And here is my baby in all her glory.
 

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Okay gents,

It's taken me over a year, but I have gotten everything back on but radiator, fan, and belts. I'm at the point in the writeup where I should be able to start it up and wait for the "engine oil light to go off". However, I can't get it started. I believe it's a timing issue so could someone please give me some extended instructions on how to get the timing set correctly. When I turn the key forward, the engine turns over but there is no magic...it just turns over.

I've manually rotated the engine crank to line it up with the 5 tick marks on the crank pulley. However when the crank pulley is in what I think is the appropriate position (see below)



....the distributor looks like this...




I added the numbers to display where the firing pins are in reference to the actual distributor point

So if I've read everything correctly, when the crank is rotated to the proper timing mark (little spike sticking out from the block), the distributor should be aligned with the #1 spark plug position.

So how do I fix this? My gut is telling me to drop the oil pump and remove the distributor and try to put the two back together so the distributor will line up.

I know you guys can help so lay it on me. I'm SOO close I can feel it.

Also, in my trying to figure this out last night, I tested all my fuses inside the cab and my Starter Signal fuse would not "light up" no matter what position the key was in. I think I have everything hook up that should be hooked up at the point. Should I be worried about this? Changed the fuse..even though it looked fine...and still no light. So someone please help me!!!!!

Mack
 
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