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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
timing chain help
Ok so I decide to tackle my timing chain, the rattling was absolutely nerve racking. I read some walkthroughs and threads here on nissanforumns and had my Haynes manual with me at all times. (that makes me an expert in my mind)Before I go any further I should mention this is ka24e. Got everything out of the way so I could set it to TDC, marked the distributor removed that oil pump, pan, ect. I remove the valve cover, I look at the cam sprocket and I notice it isn’t at TDC its 180 degrees off. I don’t think anything about it just turn the crank pulley and set it a TDC. Then as I continue and start thinking about the distributor and the marks I made and should have I really did what I just did. What should be my next step to correct the problem, hopefully other then calling a mechanic.

jimbo
 

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put the crank at first position by using the crank pully mark lined up with the dial indicator just above the crank pulley..or the crank key way will point straight up...

the cam can be put at first position by the firing order 1342...
that is.. as you turn the cam the no 1 valve should be closed as you continue to turn the 3 set of valves should close and so on ..

do not worry about the dizzy and oil pump until you have the t-cover put back on..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well following the advice of my grandpa and a few others i installed the new chain at TDC put it back together and returned the back to 180 off of TDC so my dist marks would line back up. well it fired right up, but it smokes like crazy, some lifters are tapping for sure, and some sort of ever so slight knocking sound. I took off the valve cover and it appears to look just the same as it was before. Should I return it TDC and start the process all over again?
 

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These are the kinds of problems that make me leery about doing my timing. Though I'm still not sure if its a dirty lifter or the chain I'm hearing.

good luck
 

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well following the advice of my grandpa and a few others i installed the new chain at TDC put it back together and returned the back to 180 off of TDC so my dist marks would line back up. well it fired right up, but it smokes like crazy, some lifters are tapping for sure, and some sort of ever so slight knocking sound. I took off the valve cover and it appears to look just the same as it was before. Should I return it TDC and start the process all over again?
To recheck your cam timing, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley; if not, manually turn the motor clockwise or counter-clockwise by hand until it's pointing to ZERO. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. Remove the timing cover. The keyways for the crank and cam sprockets should be at the 12 o'clock position. Now look at the lower end of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark; 5 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
To recheck your cam timing, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley; if not, manually turn the motor clockwise or counter-clockwise by hand until it's pointing to ZERO. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. Remove the timing cover. The keyways for the crank and cam sprockets should be at the 12 o'clock position. Now look at the lower end of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark; 5 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position.
ok i did all this today and my key ways for the crank and cam sprocket sit at 12 o'clock. the mating marks on cam sprocket and crankshaft sit 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock respectively, bu don't t match up with silver marks on the chain. i don't know how this happened, im a certain i had this correct the first time. is this part of the problem?
 

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there are four strokes when checking for TDC. Make sure that when the valve comes up its on compression stroke. The Pinter DOES matter, make sure it is straight, and aligns with the crank pulley on the second grove. The marks on chain and gears MUST line up. The marks on the the oil pump and spindle MUST line up. The rotor should be set at number 1 cylinder. its possible to get it 180 degrees out of time, so set it to TDC when the cap is connected, and when you remove it make marks.

When everything is installed, go under the passenger seat (may have to remove seat) the computer has a dial (looks like a screw) and two lights next to it, red and green, spin the dial until the like is just green. If it is still faulty, use a timing light, and see if the Pinter is lining up with the sencond grove on crank pulley. Listen to the beats in the motor, you will know when the rotor is at cylinder 1. make sure that beat is exact to the Pinter on the Crank pulley (Sounds weird but there is a beat to a motor) Last adjust the distributor to advance or decrase timing.

Sorry if this wasnt what you needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i just want to make sure of something first. The crank and camshaft keys are at 12 o'clock, the first valve is up, and i had the pinter on the second mark of the crankshaft pulley before i removed to the timing cover. also i can shine a light in to the spark plug hole and see the cylinder head. am i at TDC?

thanks once again,
jimbo
 
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