[Striker44]

Hi all.New here for these forums.

Im working on a 1991 nissan pathfinder truck for a friend of mine.It has the Ka24e engine and it had blown a head gasket.I had the head shaved and replaced the gasket and the water pump,oil pump and timing chain and guide rails.Also replaced the temp sensor.This engine has aprox 300k miles on it.I have 150 psi on all cylinders on a compression check.I have checked the timing several times and its right on.When the truck hit 200k miles i replaced the timing chain.

This engine blew a head gasket and the oil was turned into a milkshake.It still ran like this and it ran great.

Now after its all back together it will only start up and run crappy with the MAF unplugged and it runs but wont accelerate and pops and sputters and is heating up pretty quick.It will not run at all with the MAF connected.This has me stumped as to why it wont run right.I am a diesel mechanic and everything i own is diesel.I HATE anything that has a computer in it.My diesels have no computers.Im just trying to help a good friend out with his truck as he is no mech and trying to save him some $$ to get his little truck back on the road.

So is this a problem with the MAF or some other problem that i missed?Any help would be appreciated as im tired of looking at this truck in my driveway.

 

[Analognerd]

I'm guessing you have hit all the timeing marks right and you was on Cly #1 if that is how that one ask for. Or where you lifted the head off. Your cam may be out 360.If not... Its sooo easy to get the spark-plugs wires back wrong. I all-ways draw a picture of the cap on paper and then I mark the wires from the top (fire wall side) as 1-8 or what-ever. I use masking tape and write 1, 2 clock wise and tape the wires by the cap, to show the precession and draw where they go if I pull more than a wire at a time. Maybe that's an asinine way of doing things but it works for me. I've learn that I can't remember.

 

[Striker44]

The cam was never turned after the head was pulled off.The plug wires were never removed off the rotor cap.The cam can only be 180 degrees out never 360.I even tried advancing the plug wires on the cap and retarding them.The motor wont even start if they arent where they are supposed to be.

 

[Analognerd]

Hi Striker,
I'm not a pro and the Nissan I'm buying is my first. I can tell you that I was dum-funded once and I blew into my exhaust pipe from the back of my car and it seemed plugged. I then had to cut the bolts to drop the exhaust from the header pipes. Once I did that, I tried starting the car and THEN it started. I knew then that the catalytic converter was totally plug up. My car died too but got me home. After that it never started. I took off the exhaust pipe then and found a long metal tool and I knock out the inside of that converter and made a hole in it the size of the exhaust pipe. I then turn the exhaust pipe up right and bang it on the garage floor knocking out all the crap I just broke up that was the plugged inside. I put the exhaust back on that way because it was a old car and didn't need that test they do. And I continue driving it that way.
Yes I should and could have bought a new catalytic converter but I was in a hurry and I didn't think my little 4cly was doing that much harm.
I don't know if this is your problem but I do know that one time when I had no answers
This is what I found out to be my problem. Try blowing into your exhaust pipe at the rear of your car. Is it totally plugged?
I never did a compression test when I had this problem. So I can't say if a plugged cat. will cause your low reading. Oil in your water or water in your oil (head gasket?)
I had to throw in the exhaust. It happens and who ever thinks that....

 

[Analognerd]

When your at top dead center, you can be there just be-for your intake valve opens or on an exhaust push out. On my timing and it my not be the same as yours. When the #1 cly was top dead and your dot's on your crank should line up (I would think) The overhead cam in your case should just start to open your intake valve or be .010-.017 to touch the valve stem. Now it might not if its on the 2nd top dead center. In ether case,,pully line/dot match when #1 is TDC is where I would set my valve cam to just be about to touch the in-take valve stem.
I'm sure you can buy a book for your motor. Some how I don't think its your timing chain but then those low compression reading are so low that it is too low to fire. Do you need a valve job? Hows your blow by? Are you pumping pressure into your crank case very heavy?(rings) It would need to be very heavy not to start.
With one cly greater on compression test I have to wonder about your head gasket.
I'm sure you will find it and I know just how frustrating it can be.
I feel bad for you. I've been there many times.

 

[Striker44]

This engine is overhead cam.There is no valve adjustments.It doesnt need a valve job.I had them all checked at the machine shop that shaved the head.Its not the cat as it was removed long ago.The engine runs but doesnt accelerate and will not start or run at all with the MAF plugged in.

This engine ran great even with a blown head gasket.There was water in the oil is why i had the head shaved and new head gasket put on along with all the other new parts.

 

[rogoman]

Im working on a 1991 nissan pathfinder truck for a friend of mine.It has the Ka24e engine and it had blown a head gasket.I had the head shaved and replaced the gasket and the water pump,oil pump and timing chain and guide rails.Also replaced the temp sensor.This engine has aprox 300k miles on it.I have 150 psi on all cylinders on a compression check.I have checked the timing several times and its right on.When the truck hit 200k miles i replaced the timing chain.

This engine blew a head gasket and the oil was turned into a milkshake.It still ran like this and it ran great.

Now after its all back together it will only start up and run crappy with the MAF unplugged and it runs but wont accelerate and pops and sputters and is heating up pretty quick.It will not run at all with the MAF connected.This has me stumped as to why it wont run right.I am a diesel mechanic and everything i own is diesel.I HATE anything that has a computer in it.My diesels have no computers.Im just trying to help a good friend out with his truck as he is no mech and trying to save him some $$ to get his little truck back on the road.

So is this a problem with the MAF or some other problem that i missed?Any help would be appreciated as im tired of looking at this truck in my driveway.

It's possible that during the dis-assembly/assembly, the MAF or it's harness connector may have been damaged. However since you had the head removed, the problem may be incorrect cam timing. The KA24E engines do not have cast-in timing chain stoppers at the crank sprocket so it's possible that the timing chain may have jumped a tooth or more during dis-assembly. To recheck your cam timing, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. Remove the timing cover. The keyways for the crank and cam sprockets should be at the 12 o'clock position. Now look at the lower end of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark; 5 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position.

 

[Analognerd]

This ment for Striker44 and not my e-mail?

It's possible that during the dis-assembly/assembly, the MAF or it's harness connector may have been damaged. However since you had the head removed, the problem may be incorrect cam timing. The KA24E engines do not have cast-in timing chain stoppers at the crank sprocket so it's possible that the timing chain may have jumped a tooth or more during dis-assembly. To recheck your cam timing, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. Remove the timing cover. The keyways for the crank and cam sprockets should be at the 12 o'clock position. Now look at the lower end of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark; 5 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position.

This was in my e-mail box. I think it was met for Striker44.
Something happen when the head was pulled and put back on. Its got to be there.
Crap,- did the shop give you the right head? You wouldn't believe the mistakes. It could be them. Just trying to think out of the box. Shannon.

 

[Striker44]

I have checked the timing many times.Its right on.The MAF was never disconnected from its connector.

 

[rogoman]

If you are sure the cam timing is correct, make sure the ignition timing is also correct. You indicated in your first post that the engine is heating up very quickly. If it's over-heating, that would possibly indicate incorrect ignition timing. Also make sure that all the engine ground connections are secure.

Also with the rapid heating up, make sure the thermostat is OK and that there are no air pockets in the coolant system.

 

[Striker44]

I put in a new water pump and t-stat.and temp gauge sender and also the head temp sensor.what do you mean by ignition timing? The distributor is where it has always been and can only move 3/4 of a inch.

 

[Macmayne285]

Hi all.New here for these forums.

Im working on a 1991 nissan pathfinder truck for a friend of mine.It has the Ka24e engine and it had blown a head gasket.I had the head shaved and replaced the gasket and the water pump,oil pump and timing chain and guide rails.Also replaced the temp sensor.This engine has aprox 300k miles on it.I have 150 psi on all cylinders on a compression check.I have checked the timing several times and its right on.When the truck hit 200k miles i replaced the timing chain.

This engine blew a head gasket and the oil was turned into a milkshake.It still ran like this and it ran great.

Now after its all back together it will only start up and run crappy with the MAF unplugged and it runs but wont accelerate and pops and sputters and is heating up pretty quick.It will not run at all with the MAF connected.This has me stumped as to why it wont run right.I am a diesel mechanic and everything i own is diesel.I HATE anything that has a computer in it.My diesels have no computers.Im just trying to help a good friend out with his truck as he is no mech and trying to save him some $$ to get his little truck back on the road.

So is this a problem with the MAF or some other problem that i missed?Any help would be appreciated as im tired of looking at this truck in my driveway.

Hey did you ever figure it out im having that issue as well accept mine truck was running fine until the serpantine belt broke it sat up a couple weeks i got a new belt for it and ive been having the same problem ever since. having

 

[rogoman]

Hey did you ever figure it out im having that issue as well accept mine truck was running fine until the serpantine belt broke it sat up a couple weeks i got a new belt for it and ive been having the same problem ever since. having

The engine may be operating in "fail safe" mode due to a certain failed component. Perform an ECU code readout to see if any fault codes have been set.